Claymore

Corolla manifold and brackets tidy up. With the excellent weather we've been having decided it was time to get some painting done. As it started. Cleaned off the worst of the rust with wet n dry and gave it a quick rub over to help key the new paint. The manifold has an aluminised finish from Toyota. Cleaned out the inside also using brake cleaner and sloshed it around inside, it was quite greasy from the PCV system. Glad I did as I managed to rinse out a piece of old throttle body gasket (approx. 10mm x 5mm). Don't want that in the engine! Brackets

Yeah, I only went by what I'd read on the forums. The further I look there appears to be a rubber layer on some shown examples. I'll check mine when I change the cambelt. There are differences in weight though between fe and fte which some are worried about but then some say that they've run it with the fe pulley and its been fine!?

Boot Gas strut replacement was overdue. It was difficult to open the boot and it turned out that the gas struts had lost their pressure so some genius had bent one of the strut shafts to increase the resistance. 🤠 move. First I propped open the boot and unbolted the 2 x M6 bolts from the bracket at the car end of the strut. These had thread seal on them and you could feel it upon turning them. Removal at the other end was not as easy as I'd hoped for, the ball and socket joints don't have an external retaining clip to remove (only an internal snap ring). It was not

Did a bit of research and found these threads. I know one relates to code 52 but it may help with the function and wiring side of things. Looks like the Knock sensor signal wire is shielded and both the signal wire and shielding must be wired correctly. It talks about the shielding on the knock sensor signal wire and how it should be connected (this is for an EP91 so may not be exactly the same). Hopefully it describes how it works and then you can compare if yours is different. I looked into Code 53 and I also came up with different explanations from "knock sensor loose" to "detonation signal

Great to see this, really like the SR's. Looking forward to the progress. 😀👍

The wider front track can be a mixed blessing, it can increase grip and stability at one end but I found on my previous car it affected the steering feel and created an increase in self centring. Not bad but still "different". The tyres were wider than standard and the wheel offset decreased to have a wider track all round. I think the switch from a good road tyre to an R-compound track tyre will be plenty improvement anyway! Just remember they take a few laps to get heat in them so no "banzai" first lap bravery and remember if you run out of grip it will usually be at a higher speed so t

Hello, Any updates on this? It seems to have progressed quite a bit from when you started. Would love to see an engine bay shot with all the new developments I know people are getting busier again but this looked like a totally different project.

I would suggest fitting a wideband o2 sensor and gauge to read the AFR's as well as timing check (when you can). Also be aware that the 4efe crank pulley isn't a harmonic balancer type like the 4efte one is. Some have expressed concerns about using the non harmonic type. A lean condition and too advanced spark is a recipe for melted pistons. You have done the right thing to be cautious. I'm certainly not an expert in reading spark plugs but after doing some internet research, soot on the outer part can be rich at idle, might not be rich at full throttle though.

Welcome to the forum mate, its been busier than ever recently, I much prefer the format of a forum. It has plenty of helpful info and a lot of build threads started too. Get a build thread up yourself, will be interesting to see. 😁👍

Good times, shame about the hassle though, genuine mistakes do happen but there are a lot of arse holes out there. As you said always pay strangers with Paypal and add the 4% for fees if you have too for the guarantee. Never bank transfer. Good luck sorting her out, always liked the Gt's

That's the coil dude, The ignition module (igniter) is a different component. If it was from eBay you can start a resolution case against the seller for an item that didn't arrive. eBay customer services will get you the money back no problems. I've had to use them in the past and they're really on it.

As far as track tyres go I've had good experiences with Toyo 888 on my previous car, the new design gets good reviews and is usually cheaper than the advans. Advans are excellent though. Keep the widths the same front and rear or you will upset the handling, wide on the front and thin on the rear is for drag racing to reduce rolling resistance which is no good when corners are involved. Can't comment on preferred size though.

Indicator removal and repair time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWBOrM646ow I noticed that the indicator was a bit "flappy" so I removed it to investigate: Unscrew at top and slide forward (if the tab at the bottom is broken off like mine was then no need to slide forward) Quarter turn bulb holder to remove. It was quite obvious that the bottom tab that fits into a plastic holder in the wing was missing, but quite luckily for me it had stayed in the bumper for god knows how long. A retrieval device was fashioned from a long screwdriver and adhesiv

90119-10596

Good times . Tell the dyno operator to send it!

Really sorry to hear about this, the build looks like its going to be a monster! Might be worth checking the big end bearings, crank journals, main bearings for similar scoring damage. Start with one and see where it takes you. If particles have ended up in the oil it may have been round the engine and produced similar scoring on the bottom end bearings. Also cut open the oil filter with tin snips so you can check for debris (if you still have it) Hope you get it sorted soon and 🤞 its all ok at the bottom end.

The rear wiper arm and boot handle were letting the side down so they were next for some attention: Used masking tape to mark the position of the wiper tip for easier re-install, Undo 10mm nut under cap and had to use a tiny 3 legged hub puller to pop the arm off the spline. Painted arm satin black. To get the handle off first need to remove inner boot cover, it's held on with push fit clips, I used a phillips JIS screw driver to hold it still from spinning whilst using a small flat blade screw driver to lever the middle button out. Remove all clips, then pull cover off third

Time to tidy the rear end of Nanza: First had to remove bumper (3 bolts in each wheel arch, 3 bolts at top, 1 bolt underneath with 2 plastic clips). The rear valance has seen some parking / reversing into posts action but I already new this when I bought the car. Thankfully nothing too serious. Then the cracked rear light clusters, the left one actually has fungus growing in the reverse section! Cleaned up well with all rust spots treated as per the usual method. Replacement rear light clusters fitted.

I will most likely use a tf035hm (I do have a TD04l also that may be tested). If both turbos are in need of a rebuild I may end up with a hybrid of the two but I am still sourcing the rest of the parts. Which leads me to: WANTED: TD04 ram horn exhaust manifold and downpipe. Preferably WEPR, Zisco, Race Tech or Tuning developments. PM me if anyone has one for sale (no eBay tat please) 😁👍 More updates to come, mainly chassis mods before the engine stuff but its on the way. Been checking out your build thread too, nice to see it back up and running.

Could be lots of things, but from your description: You could do an Engine check readout to see if there are any fault codes registered. Start with the obvious stuff, check that the throttle pedal, cable and throttle body butterfly move freely without sticking. Vacuum leak (as mentioned above) Check that the Throttle position sensor is adjusted correctly (search forum for how to test the TPS with multi meter and adjust if necessary). Many other things but its a process of elimination.

Was reading it last night. Page 7

Really like the use of the later crank trigger wheel and sensor. Toyota o.e. parts upgrades should work well. This is from the 3rd generation 4efe? Used in the 97-02 corolla?

The rear beam was in ok condition drivers side and good condition on the passenger side. Same deal as chassis really but access was better, remove loose rust, treat, zinc prime and paint satin black. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G10548Wb54s Drivers side gusset looked worse than it was, I was dreading it being as crumbly as a danish pastry but thankfully really solid, cleaned up well. Treated and then primed. Top coat The drum backing plates and rear beam arms will get the same treatment when the beam comes out for bush replacement.

Had some surface rust on the rear chassis rails to deal with. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ewy2M9LiEWY&t=6s Access is pretty limited, I could only use a wire wheel on a drill to remove the worst of the loose rust, so decided to then treat what was left to neutralise it then paint to protect. I really rate the Bilt Hamber range of products. I've had good success with use on previous cars so bought these: Removed more mud from the wheel arches. Loose rust removed. Rear chassis legs a bit scabby still but solid at least. 2 coats of Bilt

Nice work on the cold side pipe, smoother with more pie cuts.