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rorenapier

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Everything posted by rorenapier

  1. rorenapier
    From what ive read, its being broken due to a dodgy head gasket. (Thats what i read between the lines anyway) Idree's your a nugget if you do.
  2. rorenapier
    The seat belt points are more than fine. If the MSA "Blue book" says its ok for racing then im sure a track day wont give you any problems. My own car has been through scrutineering at events and has caused no issue. Mounting belts on any brace, Strut bar, C pillar etc is a recipe for disaster.
  3. rorenapier
    You never mentioned rattling, you stated "it helps mesh the 2 gears better " They mesh together fine even when you dont tension the cam gear, hence i posted what i did.
  4. rorenapier
    Doesnt help mesh anything, it stops the inlet cam rattling.
  5. rorenapier
    Factory settings wont cut it due to the material used in manufacturing the head bolts are diffirent!! Mine are done per ARP and i never had any issues torquing them down.
  6. rorenapier
    The ARP bolts will need to be torqued to ARP specs. Factory ones will not do.
  7. rorenapier
    Without worrying about tyres, why not learn what your car is going to do on normal road tyres? Learn how the car moves about before splashing the cash on R888 etc. I usually find the folk that have never been on track or very little soon fall off with there super duper tyres... Yep you geaussed it in-experience. Food for thought.
  8. rorenapier
    What was the outcome of your new motor?
  9. rorenapier
    Out of cusiousity, are the wheels 14 or 15"? And where did you pic em up from?
  10. rorenapier
    Was the block checked for being flat?
  11. rorenapier
    Yeah ive done it, but i never had time to make a guide. You will need as much room as possible, so seats and all plastics out from around the gear knob etc. Then be methodical and start taking it out.
  12. rorenapier
    I would, it doesnt take long to fit one. Even if you have to make up the lines it doesnt take long.
  13. rorenapier
    If your going on track then use a good high quality fully synthetic. Has a higher shear rating, and better protection.
  14. rorenapier
    The engine loom is a piece of cake to change, on the other hand the interior loom is a compete ball ache (dashboard out etc etc) And for the CD player plugs etc you will need to change the interior loom.
  15. rorenapier
    Not so Sparky, yes you could change the polarity around, but think about the fan blade direction.
  16. rorenapier
    From the metal pipe from the water pump? Sounds like its over heating and pressurising the system. Where is the fan located? outdide or inside? Indide should suck, outside should blow.
  17. rorenapier
    When you say cam cover, do you mean the actual cam cover or the cam pulley cover? Theres nothing really under the cam cover that would give a tractor like noise? Unless theres something gone really wrong. Whip the cam puley cover off and have a look in there. Are you sure its not coming from the exhaust manifold?
  18. rorenapier
    Remove the blanking plugs from the 2 top ports, and plug the other 2 bottom ports, and try that.
  19. rorenapier
    Well well well, i thought you would never compete with it Sean? Anyway, i might pop down, ill see how things are at the time.
  20. rorenapier
    Double check your cam timing
  21. rorenapier
    Did your pistons and rings not come with the spec sheet for the gaps etc? Still a sore one to stomach all the same. Lets just hope this one is better.
  22. rorenapier
    Fuck me the ring gap on the 4e build, you could get a bus through that!! Who ever done that needs shot. The ring gap you have went for, is that within standard specs?
  23. rorenapier
    Not just the engine as a variable here either, remember it was being mapped at the time. Person behind the lap top is another variable.
  24. rorenapier
    I hope you are going to find out what caused the cylinder to drop comression, and not just break it??
  25. rorenapier
    Cool, whip up pictures of the pistons etc if you can, wouldnt mind a nose about them.
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