rorenapier

The head of the bolt is not rounded, the captive nut inside the chassis has broken off, hence it wont screw out.... Hacksawing through it will do nothing in this case. If you dont have the tools to do the job then you will either have to get someone that can or pay someone to do it.

Can almost garantee the captive nut in the chassis has broken away hence you cant get the bolt out... If there has been alot of movement in the bush it will have put stress on the bolt, which in turn will have put alot of stress on the nut. Looks like you are going to be drilling a hole in the chassis. to get the bugger off. That hose looks to be water hose? Get some proper oil hose in there and you should be good to go.

TPS setup http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showth...edure-weeJohn-* Did the ignition timing get setup properly after the dizzy was changed? Bridging TE1 and E1 in the diagnostics box, and setting it to 10 BTDC?

Should mug the Astra :thumbs: Seems like it will need a head gasdket, smoke on the over run is the tell tail sign of the gasket going and obviously it now runs on 3 cylinders. Should be an easy sort anyway Theres alot of members in the area if you need a hand.

Just as good as Tial. Im sure a good few folk run em over on TGTT.

TPS setup ok? Idle timing is new to me, i think what he means is ignition timing. Have you had the distributor out for any reason?

One is the stabdard boost solenoid (longest one) The white one on the P/S resovoir looks to be the brake master cylinder level One in your hand looks like the idle control valve, what colour of wires go into it?

2 x Fancy Tumblers for Scottish sprint rounds 2 x Plaques for British sprint rounds 1 x Trophy for Banzai FWD winner @ Crail

Worth the travel if you dont want bother with MOT testers up your way. Im sure there is something on here, that has a flow chart of the MOT emmision criteria, you would have to search though.

Having used nothing but Willwoods, id go for them.

Corey over on TGTT had/has one for the GLanza, i remember seeing a pic of it. Mabey worth a PM to him.

Indeed, but im ruling out any other issues that could be problems.

throw a pic up, from what im reading there is something seriously wrong. There is no way it can hold a constant pressure if there is no vac lines to it. If anything (as stated above) you would get unlimited ammounts of pressure. You have the tial on the correct way round?

Could be a dodgy connection. What boost are you trying to run? Have you tried running the standard ecu to see if you still get an issue?

Before removing fuses etc, when you removed the FCD did you connect the wire back up for the map sensor signal? These ECU's will work from the go ahead, i never once had an issue with mine, even when i first fitted it. And yes A/T ecu will work just fine in a M/T equipped car. I know this from Trevor (if any of you lot know Trevor from N/I??) Phil you will know of him i presume?

Did you fit them properly? And did you reset the calliper before attaching the cable to the calliper? Slacken the cable inside the cabin. Remove the cables from the calliper. Wind the piston back into the calliper. Press on the brake pedal to centralise the calliper Atatch the cables to the calliper and adjust the cable from inside as necessary. You might even need pads, if it still doesnt work well.

The caps on the rad will be fine. You dont need a 1.3 one.

Indeed it is, BUT even when it was N/A is passed the sound check at 88db None of this Spoon N1 pish sounds here. But yes its loud on boost due to the screamer pipe. Thats being sorted through the winter.

Go to a custom exhaust fabricator that fabricate there own boxes. That way you can have it as loud or quiete as you want with a tail pipe to suit.

7/16 unf

If the place will fab up there own boxes then yes its possible. If not then you exhaust place isnt worth going to. It all depends on how the boxes are packed, which will dictate the sound My brother CRX sounds basically stock with a mandrel bent 2.5" system, and one silencer box. Only loud thing about his car is the dump tube from the external wastgate.

Cant just harden a bolt to make it tougher, it would just snap if it was just hardened. Forgot to say to be honest! Its running 0.7 / 0.8 on STD ecu just now. No time to get back down to see Russ.

The yeild of the material used is diffirent, hence the diffirent torque required. If yours is holding up then thats cool, ill stick with whats recomended from ARP.

If you go any bigger you will slow the airflow, and in turn make it a bit more laggier. 2" piping is more than enough.

Temps are you seeing with the cooler in place?