Frankieflowers

We installed the front intercooler. Great job. As I tested it I immediately noticed that maximum boost went from 1 psi with the original setup to 0.9. Why? Apparently there are no air leaks socwhy is the engine so powerless compared to the previous setup? @Sam44 @Claymore @RoyalDutchie IMG_4928.MOV IMG_4929.MOV

This is what I’m talking about. Relocation metal pipe from the front right pressure OEM sensor and The other two adapters screwed one in the other with the two oil temp and pressure gouges in the side. I think this is the only way to work around the sandwich plate issue. Tell me what you think about it.

What’s the exact model? I ‘ll buy it if fits the 4efte with airconditioning.

Great info. Can you confirm that this sandwich plate doesn’t touch the stearing pump bracket on the 4efte with air conditioning? I was thinking to buy this adaptor with the pipe extension and pit the other two adaptors one in the other for the oil temp and pressure gauges.

Yes you can screw in both oil pressure ant oil temp. It is all about putting the sandwich in the right position that allows sensors not to bother the belt but at the same time you want the support less retouched as possible. I personally didn’t touch ot. I used the dremel on the plate instead. Problem is it started leaking oil. I have to verify if it is caused by the “thin” aluminum ledt close to the ribber gaskey.

Got it! Custom 4efte boost goes at 0.95 bars you can see it in IMG_4822.MOV video

That’s great! My fream was the 3sgte AWD but parts would have been way to expensive for my pockets. About the boost pressure. As default it is set to high. My gauge give me a maximum of 0.9 bar. I will upload a video to show it.

Your words make me very happy after all the months spent dreaming and researching. Your information and involvement has been precious especially at the beginning. I will post more videos of the engine running.

Thanks!

Thank you! I already pasted the link on my main thread.

Hey guys. I started the swap thread/story! @Sam44 @Claymore @RoyalDutchie

OFFICIAL (working) TURBOROLLA Project Hi guys. I made my dream come true. I swapped a 1.3 4efe Toyota with a Starlet Glanza V 4efte engine on my 1998 Corolla Hatchback. The project started researching for months and thanks to passionate people on forums like this one I could gather enough information to understand that I could make it happen. The main issue was that nobody had the experience of doing this before. The few people I spoke to that on the Corolla with the turbo engine didn’t do the job themselves. I had to take the risk and use logic to reduce risks. I am gonna tell a story. I am not gonna lake a list because it’s irrelevant. Most of the information about the process is already on the 4efe to 4efte SWAP thread. The first part has been finding a good complete engine and the websites that would provide the replacement parts. The second part was putting together a schedule and a team to save time and money. After talking to all the existing dealers on the international market I started to talk to a British local engine dealer shop. I found a half cut with a 88k Km automatic Starlet Glanza V. Unfortunately prices raised almost 40% so thanks to the precious info that @Sam44 gave me I bought the engine without the gearbox. The Corolla gearbox is perfect and strong enough. Gears are shorter compared to a Starlet but because the car is heavier the engine won’t suffer. It runs 113 MPH (185 Km/h) at 5500 RPM before JDM speed limiter kicks in. The mechanics were pretty easy. I bought the complete gasket kit to be sure I would have all I needed just in case. Luca from LR CUSTOMIZE took care of the whole process under my supervision. We changed most of the oil gaskets beside the one underneath oil pump. We didn’t open the engine because the compression test was very good. We will open the head and change the valve gaskets next year to limit oil dropping in the cylinders. It is pretty good now. Second think was buying a manual 4efte flywheel to refurbish and get on the engine with a new clutch. All went well. We changed the spark plugs and proceeded with the engine swap. The main worries were about the steering pump and the AC modifications. We end up keeping the fte pump and switching the input connection on the Corolla pipes to save the original setup. Same for the AC. The AC is still to be electronically adapted as the two compressors have different wiring. We’ll see about that. The main effort has been adapting the electric harness. We ended up starting piece by piece from the ECU, starting from the 12V to the fuel pump, from the crank to the alternator. Step by step. We kept the Corolla engine bay and cabin harness and we adapted it to the fte ECU harness. Not easy. The Russion guy (that’s how we call him) didn’t have experience on 90s cars so I helped him as much as I could. My brother helped us to solve the alternator connection dilemma and the water temp sensor connection issue we had. Everything works perfectly and no error appeared after fixing the recovery mode caused by a false connection bridge done as mistake. The only thing we won’t solve is the RPM jumping in the cluster. Why? The signal that comes from the ECU is a short square signal that the younger Corolla system doesn’t like. My brother says: “Short and high voltage (80V) while your original speed clustet accetto lov voltage (5V) square or sine wave. The voltage was limited with a shunt resistor but it still isn't enough - it has to be smoothed out”. The project started improving the coils and springs and adding wheel spacers to get rid of the native Corolla defect which is understeering. The second step was finding rear disc breaks from a Levin. I was lucky to buy them from an old British car they were full of rust but I refurbished them well All new parts straight from Japan. We are about to install the front intercooler. Luca was able to fit a mid size IC right behind the front steel bumper that made the cutting unnecessary. We cut the aluminum pipes to get to the inlet and bought a few extra silicon connections to get a straight pipe up to the turbo My shop is about to build a custom hot pipe to turn left from 30 to 50 mm and get in a 90* rubber. The pop-off valve will be positioned internally. I will keep updating pictures and information feel free to ask details that you won’t find around. IMG_4726.MOV IMG_4727.MOV IMG_1557.MOV

I spoke to RaceCal Ltd. They were nice and they said they could sell me the connector. I found it though on the TE website. Here’s a picture.

Thank you very much. I feel more safe that I ordered the correct one. I still can’t find a good price for it ECU MASTER EMU CLASSIC. My tuner wants me to order it but prices are quite high.

I will build a thread with all the steps I followed since we started talking in 2020. I collected all the pictures ever since I got the engine and most of the work and research is already on my thread. But the direct experience of this swap is what makes it precious. I didn’t find a fool schedule with secrets and tips anywhere on the net. First you build the car then you post the thread. The car started to work properly a few days ago. What I wanna post is what has to be done in order to make things 100% work With all the information I collected during these months I had to test things myself and take my risks including the whole amount of money I spent. Considering that I am the only one who did this project in Italy I want to be the one who did it well. My pleasure and appreciation to all of you guys who helped me with information will be to post a step-by-step process with pictures. I will do it all together in the next few weeks. consider that I am active with all the questions that people make directly to me reading this thread. I shared all the things I tried on my car and engine. I share all the enthusiasm that you guys have and the love for this engine and built. 🙏🏻

I will build a thread with all the steps I followed since we started talking in 2020. I collected all the pictures ever since I got the engine and most of the work and research is already on my thread. But the direct experience of this swap is what makes it precious. I didn’t find a fool schedule with secrets and tips anywhere on the net.

I will keep everything until I upgrade the engine. We had to use most of the original harness.

Thanks! I ordered the 175448-6. It seems to be the same.

I finally solved the problems!as. As I felt, my friend who worked on the electric part got confused and took a signal from the yellow and green wire that comes from the two pin temperature sensor. He did it because he thought that he was dealing with the three pin sensor that was on the 4EFE Electric ignition new generation engine on the Corolla. He still did something wrong because Toyota is clear that certain sensors need to be connected straight without any impedance addition. He didn’t notice the sensor underneath that is dedicated to the cluster water temp. So when he took the bridge off and left the wire alone by himself to connect straight from the sensor to the ECU, everything went back to normal. This means that the engine never ran normally and it was in recovery mode. This is why the spark plugs were dry but the engine was running blue smoke. It doesn’t do it anymore even if it obviously could be the turbo or the valve gaskets. I know it also could be some sticky piston gaskets. But it runs better and I am happy about it. The engine check light disappeared and it was a great news because it means that error 22 and 42 are not there anymore. It’s a big achievement considering the amount of work during this swap. No check engine light whatsoever and the engine finally starts in the morning. today I went to see the tuner and he told me about the ECU classic. He explained that it would be perfect because the engine has a wire for the Excelerator. He asked me to find the original Toyota 4efte ECU female connectors in order to make the ECU swap easier. Is there any company that replicates those connectors?

Unfortunately not. I changed the water temp signal sensor and checked the wires between ghe ECU and the sensor. Everything works perfectly. I really don’t know what to do now.

I installed the Wallbro 255 you suggested me last year. Anyway it didn’t fix the problem. The problem must be mechanic. Probably an injector leaking. I pulled out the fuel rail return in the morning before turning on the car and there was no fuel. The fuel doesn’t stay in pressure and goes back to the tank. It’s a mechanical issue. I will figure out when I will test the fuel pressure and I will get the injectors to be inspected.

Thank you. I have a timing gun. I was planning to do it to be 100% sure. I still cannot figure out why I have error 22 in the diagnostics. I replaced the water temp signal sensor and I tested the wiring between it and the ECU. The signal is fine so I really don’t know what is causing the issue. The car will not start when the engine is cold and only after 10 times cranking it will start properly. I pulled out the fuel rail return before starting the car in the morning and there was no fuel. Everything is connected properly but for some reason the fuel goes back to the tank. My brother thinks it could be one of the injectors that have a light leak. I do not know what to think anymore. I am planning to go to the mechanic and try fuel pressure specifica. He also told me he wants to try the cylinder compression. The car has a light blue smoke when running low RPM and also when shifting gears on high rpm. It is either a piston oil retainer leak or the rubber valve oil retainers. I was hoping it was the turbo but I will know the truth when I will pull out the spark plugs. If they will be dark and oily then we will know the reason. I did not have the budget to open the engine when I bought it. The compression was great and I was hoping it would have worked fine. My 4EFE had 237,000 km and it didn’t have such a problem.

Always nice to read your posts. I am figuring out a few things after my swap and because my mechanic doubted that my new timing belt is correctly in place I spoke to my friend who installed it do you understand if we did something wrong. We installed the timing belt in the right direction where you can read Toyota and crankshaft position was correct and the camshaft pulley was also in the correct position with its hole seeing through. We didn’t move anything I am double checked a couple of times. When we released the tensioner we also checked again to make sure. Is there a particular symptom with this engine when the timing belt is a camshaft dent off? In my opinion the engine runs well. I have other issues to solve. Let me know your opinion. Thanks

Here is the connector to be briged to avoid the ECU looking for the N and D signal from the gearbox what is this connector for? Here the temp signal sensor Diagnostics gave me error 22 I will change the sensor tomorro and check if the wire signal is interrupt Should be the cause of false cold start Please help me understand ehat this connector is for.

The blue smoke comes out when running low RPM after a little bit but I noticed bad changing 2nd to 3rd gear while I was racing another car behind me I saw the blue smoke. We’re going to take the downpipe off to see if there is oil and check the spark plugs to see if they are dark. I hope it’s nota matter of piston rings. I did put some additive in the engine oil to clean up the valve and soft in the rubber rings. I hope it’s the turbo that needs assistance rather than the valves. everyone is watching the car and loving the sound. My shop made an amazing exhaust. I am going to post everything as soon as I can get the air conditioning running and the engine starting cold. I have to figure out error 42. The guy who swapped gearboxes on I automatic Starlet 4EFE did bridge the automatic control connector and everything worked fine without check engine lights but it’s not my case. I am not 100% sure about what my electric guy did Saul my brother is not able to help me.