pockrockgtti

Theres no diagnostic codes as such in a power fc at least not like you get on the oem ecu. If you had a hand commander there is an optiin in the menus to do a sensor check. That will give you all the readings from all the sensors and also tell you which ones are connected and unconnected. Does the car start up with the power fc?

have you got a hand commander with it?

I use a PFC on my car. I cant fault it, my tuner had never laid eyes on one before, and he got great results mapping it. Sure it may be a bit old, there are more modern standalone ecus with more features you can get for the same price.But i doubt the other standalone systems will hold there value as well as a PFC. Like others have said u'll probably be looking at 800-1000 depending on wether its a complete kit or not. If you pay that now, and in 6months time u get bord and decide u fancy a change, i guarantee u'll get what you payed for it back. The ep91 versions tend to be little bit higher

I always find the genuine kit from toyota is a lot better and worth the extra ££££. Last time i got one from toyota for the rear calipers it cost 37.92 + vat, one kit is enough to do two calipers tho. The part number for the rears is 04479-16040, there is actually a genuine kit on ebay tho but its already at £30, and still has 5 days to go.

A mate of mine fitted the twin pots on his 3sgte corolla, they were the twin pots off the st165, all he did to fit them was to redrill the standard st165 discs to a 4 stud pattern and open the centre bore to 55mm and boltted them on,

What map sensor are you using?

Just make sure you prime the engine properly before you start it up. Im sure everything will be fine.

I'll probably be there but not with my V tho

Any VW, Audi, Seat dealer. Just give them the part numbers in that guide.

Yes it defo works, i verified it with a mityvac pressure pump, and im currently using it on my own car. All the parts needed ar listed in my guide. All you do is dissonnect the oem map sensor, amd wire the VW one in its place.You need fc-datalogit to change the settings for the map sensor tho you cant do it with the hand commander

Check out my post here http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?91364-Apexi-power-fc-alternative-3bar-map-sensor.&highlight=alternative+3bar+sensor

Ave a look at my guide on tgtt mate http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?63300-EP91-Remote-locking-fob-programming-procedure-*

When i got my V at 21 3yr ncb i was paying £420 with NFU Mutual fully comp. Now at 25 with 7 years ncb, forged 5e and all sorts of other goodies i pay £780!

Personally id go for the option of either shot peening the gears, or getting the gears cryogenically treated first. Thats the cheaper option, then if that doesnt yeild any results take another more expensive approach.

Thats a bad idea, im sure there are torque setting for those bolts in the pec sheets somewhere. If you cant find it your best of emailing pec and get the proper specs. Also when u gap the rings, you dont gap them to the oem specs, you gap them to the tolerences in the tables listed in the spec sheets with the wossner pistons. And remeber to clock each ring differently

I have a td04 on my forged 5e, i have a standard spec 4e head, with 5efhe cams fitted. At 1.4bar boost i make a healthy 252hp at the wheels.

Go for it man, best money i ever spent on my V.

On my forged 5E i have placed a 1.5mm thick washer in the oil pressure relief valve. I get 80psi at idle when the engine is stone cold, once its warmed up it goes down to 30psi.

The best thing for you to do is buy a couple of books off of amazon. This is what i did, i'd recommend the following Engine Builder's Handbook and How to Blueprint & Build a 4-cylinder Engine Short Block for High Performance Manual. Both of these books explain in depth how to rebuild an engine both books explain in depth everything from stripping an engine down, checking various parts for wear, and measuring tolerences, and also gives practical tips on how to put various engine components back together.

Personally if i was you id go and buy a Haynes manual for Corolla 92 - 97. And follow the guide in there for the 1.3 engine. Its virtually the same minus the obvious thing like removing the extra stuff like the intercooler pipe outta the way.

I would of come, but im away following Wales Rally GB all wknd!

Their rubber bushes that come in the kit. I think polythene replacments wouldnt be hard to source, and wouldnt cost much, it would still work out cheaper than a whiteline kit aswell.

I have the ultra racing one, ive had it under my bed for well over a year, but i still havent had a chance to fit it, been busy doing the whole forged 5e thing. All i can say having seen both, id go for the ultra racing one, as this is a true bolt on kit, the whiteline kit isnt completly bolt on, it requires drilling of the rear chassis rails in order to fit the drop link brackets.

PM'd mate

dont bother with a datalogit, get an FC-hako cable instead, thats what i did, its half the price of the datalogit. Theres no software that comes with it, but you can use the datalogit software with the fc-hako cable. Its easy to get the datalogit software if you know were to look. Any competent tuner should be able to map it, my tuner had never laid eyes on an Apexi power fc before, and was able to map it no worries. He even managed to get 252whp on my TD04 5e on 1.4bar boost