pockrockgtti

Has anyone attempted to take the p/s rack apart and take out the seals to make it lighter to turn?

The pins are held in by a little tab. If you look at the plug from the front get a needle or a stiff peice of thin wire and just push it in just above the pin, still holding it in place push the pin out with needle and it just pop out the back.

You can take the pin out of the plug and solder a new wire on to it.

Im just in the process of buying a house, or as i like to tell people, a garage with a house. If all goes well ill soon have a garage thats about 20ftx30ft and also has a 10ftx20 workshop upstairs. Its honna take me a while to kit it out, i should even have room to get a 2 post lift seeing as the celling is high enough. Lol

Its not gonna be a bolt in a starlet.

The k3vet has nothing in common with the 4efte, apart from the fact it a 1.3 and turbocharged. I mean the bore and stroke of the engine isnt anywhere near the same. Its got a chain aswell not a belt. So i doubt very much the head off that will fit a 4efte. The kv3vet is more or less the 1.3 2szfe which is found in first gen yaris with a turbo slaped on it. So it should be a straight forward bolt in into a yaris.

As above. Please contact via pm.

As above. Please contact via pm.

Just print this out give it to the tester. And if he argues, appeal to vosa. http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/3224/motcat.gif

And you need some spigot rings to reduce the center bore of the astra disc from 60mm to 56.1mm

I use to be bang into these back in the day. I had 3 of them at one time. The rods and pistons are forged as standard. Prices have started to go through the roof now. I wish i would have kept one of mine.

Pretty much. You will need get some heatshrink tubing aswell, the kind thats lined with glue. So you can cover up the solder joints. Also its a good idea after you have finished the loom to fill all the backside of the connecter where your solder connections are with hot melt glue. This is mainly for added support and to stop any straining of the solder connections. Take note! You'll need get both the pinout diagrams for ep82 and ep91, compare the two and take it from there. Dont worry about the extra 16 or so pins on the glanza connector, there only used on the automatic. Also there is are 2

You would have to get hold of a ep91 ecu connector, and use it to rewire the harness that came with the power fc. Ive actually done this myself, and it works perfectly.

The Road Vehicles ( Display of Registration Marks) (Amendment) regulations 2002 SI no. 2687 came into force in November 2002. These amendment regulations introduce a new regulation 14A, making special provision in relation to the size and spacing of characters in the registration number of some imported vehicles. These regulations also include the display of motorcycle sizes for number plates on imported vehicles. The provision only applies to vehicles imported into the UK which do not have European Community Whole Vehicle Type Approval, and are so constructed, that the area available for th

I second that. Its a shame its not officially sold in the uk. It shits on a snikers!! And pretzel m & m's.

FCP308H is the ferodo part number your looking for: http://www.camskill.co.uk/m49b0s4035p53296/FERODO_DS2500_BRAKE_PADS_-_FCP308H_Ferodo_DS2500_Brake_pads http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/detprod.asp?productcode=FCP308H&PID=1094388

Always wanted one of these. Ive owned a few charades in the days before my starlet. Ive owned a uk spec version of this a, Charade GSXi (same engine, no recaro interior no bodykit). Great little engine in that charade detomaso, go like stink.

Any pictures of the flywheel mate???

I prefer the single pots myself. I prefer to have the larger discs as it has more thermal mass. Takes more time to heat a larger disc therefore its less likly for you to get brake fade. The larger disc dissipate the heat better aswell. The discs for the twinpots are puney in comparison.

You do it like this for standard open diff And like this for aftermarket lsd These are taken from sn mr2 spyder manual, preload figures may be diffrent, procedure will be same.

You need a dial type torque bar. Basiccally you assemble the box with just the diff and its bearings inside no other gears inside, you torque the gearbox casing together, then with the use of a special adapter which you place throu were the driveshaft goes. You attach the torque bar to the adspter and then you try to rotate the diff and see how much torque it takes to roatate it.

Shimming is when you adjust the preload of the bearing either side of the diff. By placing different thicknesess of shim between the gearbox casing and bearings. Too much preload willl mean the diff bearings will be too tight and will result in excessive wear, and reduced lifespan, and in extreme cases seizure. Too little preload will result in the diff being too loose. Which will result in too much end float and the diff moving ariund inside the box.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JDM-TRD-Torsen-LSD-Helical-starlet-EP82-EP91-Collora-Levin-Trueno-AE101-AE111-/140988667619?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20d39456e3 Works exactly like a quaife atb.

Hi, Does anyone know how many degrees of camber each notch represents on the top mounts??

No longer available sorry