5T4R7ET N/A

the standard ecu fuels fine with 0.5 bar on td04 so the problem could be plugs? you running iridiums? does it drive fine? any hesitation or jerking at low rpm?

does it sound like the video in this thread? http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/65161-knocking-on-tickover-video-added/?hl=%2Bknocking+%2Bnoise

post a video up if you can. might make it a little easier to figure out

take the SARD fuel pressure regulator off and drive it. could be a faulty one??

if you did reset the ecu give it some time, it takes a few miles for the it get fuelling right. but replace the lambda sensor anyway.

might need a new one because im sure it should make some difference.

engine is around 60-70kg, gearbox 30-35kg

welcome, those 1.8vti are good engines with lots of tuning potential

make sure you get the reading when the engine is fully up to temp. because the reading you are giving are when engine is cold. idle cold start AFR : 11.5 idle fully warm AFR: 14.6-15.5 cruising AFR : 14.2-16.2 depending on throttle lift off throttle when in gear: no reading

isnt that idrees old gt.

as said above its not just about ultimate power. i would like to see a emanage vs fcd @ 1 bar dyno graph though. when you have emanage you can play with more variables to make it suit everyday driving without compromising anything.

the toyota coolant is pre-mixed if its a 5 litre bottle. should say on it?

^^ good effort. best to try and do things yourself.

look at how many litres your putting in not the ££. if your putting in £10 with todays prices that around 7 litres. so if your getting anything above 50 miles that not too bad

has really come along nicely, looks awesome

2667-NGK BKR7EIX

HKS, heres the guide for starlet https://home.comcast.net/~ronald_miranda/hksactuator.pdf

the new clutch kit should of had a release bearing included

it must be shorting out on something, even a rusty connector to a bulb can cause this. take out every bulb on that circuit the and have a look at the contacts. also take the driver side speaker plastic out and look at the wires that go into the fuses. have any extra wires been wired in for gauges or something?

the wires that are on the left of the picture, green, purple, (rear speaker) white and grey (front speakers) are in pairs. read the lable on the silver stickers and connect the two left front pair and front right to a pair ect. since you already got power these wire must be connected properly only speaker are messed up?

first of all make sure you got the the bits to do it, driveshafts, sandwich plate, flywheel cover, and rear mount ( LSD specific parts) use a piece of wood or something if you hold the engine using a jack, sumps are pretty soft metal couple of little thinks like starter motor off, earth strap, speedo cable and gear linkage cable come off before you start undoing gearbox bolts i would leave two bolts from the gearbox to the engine a little loose, then undo mounts and take the the last two bolts out after properly support the gearbox. prevents damage to input shaft

sounds good, but link goes to home page not the product?

toyosport= bracing you should have used genuine scooby gaskets the toyosport ones are bubblegum. looking good so far

when you are putting the HKS actuator on, there should be tension on the actuator arm ( pre-load) when putting the actuator arm on the wastegate pin, it should be pretty hard as you have to pull the actuator arm across to put it on the pin. put a picture of the HKS actuator at the setting you have 0.8 bar after installment. might have some vacuum lines mixed up or something

use this guide, see what happens https://home.comcast.net/~ronald_miranda/hksactuator.pdf