Asad

Ive recently got another N/A too keep me rolling, just about got it up to scratch mechanical wise...replaced clutch timing belt radiator thermostat crank seal gearbox oil clutch fluid service glanza alloys still needs the front brakes sorting im going to keep it standard tbh ive lost all heart to start another project, really took it out of me had to go to and from sunderland to strip the car lying on my back in the rain/cold taking apart what id put blood/sweat and tears into over last 3 years this was the reason i couldnt come to jf/jf2 the rear coilovers are fine so is the front passeng

Did you get my pm bud ^

yeah, just the glanza ones dont have the side repeater (some might)

the most functional mod any N/A owner can get are the cup holders and arm rest....make cruising so soooo much nicer

tbh these are just extra bling, the N/A headlights are made out of glass if anything they should have released these for the plastic glanza headlights As above i saw them on ebay a while ago were priced around £44?

Never heard of one snapping due to power, gates do a blue one and so do power enterprise

i spotted this also, what year car do you have? my 96 N/A only had the mentioned plastic item and not the metal "sugar cube" seems as if toyota saw the problem and rectified it....in this case there is nothing you can do put some grease on it and rule it out fix/replace something else

Can only suggest you have a look at the connector on the cluster and make sure the temp gauge is getting the right feed

Yeah its a combi, tried all sorts to even out the water but its the same...surely having two different taps on shouldnt be a problem?

Totally random but thought id put this up here before calling some out We got a new boiler put in its abit of a tank to be fair (Vaillant 838) and each time someones running the bath full whack and at the same time someones using the kitchen sink taps.....the hot water runs out the temp for the water is set at 44 and the pressure is reading 1.9 bar whats going on? any help greatly appreciated Asad

yeah, it made loads of clicky noises when driving i didnt have a problem with the temp gauge tho....either way attach the earth else where and see how she fares

iirc you cant attach the earth cable back on to the rolla mani the earth takes a 10mm and the bolt hole in the back of the mani is 12mm you can either bore it out or attach it elsewhere......dont attach it to the firewall i had problems when i did this so i bored it out and put it on the back of the mani it could be that the your loom has a different feed for the temp gauge and some wires need swapping around....your going to have to trace the wires on the cluster and on the the loom to see if its the right one

Youve missed a earth connection, mine did that when i was messing with the inlet manifold i left the earth off at the back of the mani....it wouldnt start and the temp needle shot up re-check your wiring

not many people are experimenting with new things, theres a few builds that have used coilpacks but most people see it fit to re-new the standard items and thats it (most cases this is enough) i guess its just expense and the fact there engine setup doesnt require it that people dont do it (needs a standalone ECU to run and mapping costs too aswell as the initial outlay) the first question you need to ask yourself is, do i really need it? running high rpm? (spark can disintigrate at high rpms) massive boost levels running nos etc etc? it can give you better fuel economy/driveability i guess..

The only thing which keeps me going is porridge, so its two bowls of that and plenty of water and anything else thats going.... Cant get to sleep after fajr (morning prayer) tho just toss n turn till its time for wrk @ 7

Nice....get much done? lmao! Thanks guys, its hard keeping up the momentum being all lively greeting/talking to customers etc....come 4-5ish is when i find it gets hard What you guys eat for Sehri?

The yaris uses them but as a brake light version, may help you find what they are? http://www.austinarts.org/p-wedge-bulbs-w16w-t15-948469.html thats the one you need i think?

your car most likely had a cd changer of some sort......is the other end plugged into the cd player?

Here it is 33-2634 http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....6763&st=180

If i was to get some id get some off a vag car, they all seem to have really powerful ones

Stick with the k+n iirc i posted the correct part number for one on here have a search, if not i may still have the box for my one ill have a look see

10w40 semi is fine, change it every 10k i did roughly 2000 miles a month while at uni, drove like a champ

9-10k for a N/A is more than adequate if anything its early....ran mine to over 106k in the 3 years i had and not one problem or leak turbo cars is a different story due to the heat and breaking down of the oil

Whats the mileage on the engine? how hard is it driven? how many miles does it rack up? forced induction? track use? I was the same when i got my car only wanted the best but in reality its a 4e-fe not a massive powerhouse that requires an expensive oil to keep it in tip top condition....nor does it need a special ester based oil due to being broken down so quickly by a turbo/track use. then theres the cost of the said oils! think everyone is forgetting to ask the main questions....you have a carbed 2E? depending on mileage it will most likely burn the low weight oil when used (check the o

It happened during the last two weeks of uni, me and a friend went out to get something to eat....came round a corner and out of no where this little kid starts running out i thought he`d stop or atleast go halfway and wait there...he carried on running leaving my no choice but to swerve i mounted a brick wall took a out a wrough iron wall fence (proper heavy duty mofo) and narrowly missed a occupied house.. the doped up kid fell over when he got to the other side ....no one was hurt bar a few bruises Been putting it off posting it up on here really, well and truely gutted i put blood sw