TimD

Looks ten times better than the EP82 to Glanza front end someone posted the other day!

There was a thread on here about injectors recently which will go some way to explain what would happen if you'd fit higher capacity injectors without mapping. I'll be starting mine on standard injectors with adjustable FPR, but having fuelling checked before it gets used properly.

It's the injectors that are going to cause problems without adjustments to your map.

I bought it for him, from an EP82.

The EP82's rack is quick, so much so that people fit them to other cars. A friend of mine has one on his Golf 1.

What did I miss?

Worth a shot though, that's for sure.

..

Sad. Best of luck with it!

Just putting the feelers out there really, but eventually I'd like the following: - Front Bumper - Side Skirts - Adjustable Rear Wing Any colour, and any condition considered. Thanks

I've used them properly, in my '82, and other cars. They'll be fine on the road, but one assumes this wont be a road car, that gearbox wont last long otherwise.

EBC pads are fine, until you use them properly, then they are dog turd.

Smoke out of the catch can has nothing to do with your oil pressure gauge not working. Remove all the wiring for the gauge and inspect it, you'll find something. A bit of oil vapor out of the catch can would be the least of your worries, if your oil pressure gauge is to be believed.

Look how many for sale ads need to be bumped and bumped and bumped.. The market for starlet parts has slowed significantly over the last couple of years. You'll sell the go faster parts eventually but don't expect people to fighting over stuff. If I were you, I'd do some maths and figure out what you can get for all the performance parts you have, and see if it's possible to sell the car as a whole for somewhere near. Forget about the interior panels, and other sundries, they are largely worthless unless you want to keep hold of them for years on the off chance someone needs a door card.

Hi Chaps! Well, I'm back from my holiday and ready to attack this! I did oil the cylinders, put not the rings or pistons, I can't feel the marks with my finger nail and have had some advice from others to suggest that I "should" be OK. But having said that, I'm going to remove the pistons and have the blocked checked over again by someone with a professional eye, rather than relying on photos on the internet so I'll report back on that one. I'm going to plastigauge the bearings as well. Not sure when I'll get another chance to look at this, possibly this weekend. Will keep you all updated! Money is not the driving force behind me doing this. I could quite easily afford to send it away and have it built up, but I want to learn how to do this, and that's what I'll do during this process.

I have one, but it'll need collecting from Sheffield

Thanks James, I understand Rob is a very busy chap so wouldn't want to bother him having not spent money there. I've removed a piston and rod to further inspect, hard to take pictures due to the light, I'll get some better ones in the morning. The lines run from the bottom of the cylinder to about 3/4 of the way up I wiped the assembly lube from the big end bearing, there are some marks on that too There are marks on the bottom and then both sides towards the top of the bearing

Looks like it'll have to all come apart anyway, something has gone wrong when installing the pistons.

So, who's got a good guide, and what figures I should be looking for when using plastigauge? Con-rod oil clearance: STD = 0.016-0.048mm Limit = 0.08mm Main journal oil clearance: STD = 0.016-0.049mm U/S 0.25 = 0.017-0.061mm Limit = 0.08mm Can someone explain the above?

Well, some red plastigage is winging it's way to me, I hope it'll arrive in the post on Friday, that way I can at least check the mains before going away.

I'm not using Toyota bearings, so that information isn't worth much. I get it, Toyota will supply me with different bearings, but when I'm not using Toyota bearings, and the crank is in spec, then a STD sized aftermarket bearing will do, I'm sure. I'll be plastigauging it when I return from my holiday, that'll give me some indication as to whether or not we are close and need to investigate further.

I know that now is the time to be making sure, I'm not rubbishing anyones suggestions. I'm just struggling to understand why I can go out and buy ACL/TAIHO/KING bearings in standard size, but these not be OK to fit to the car. Or, why I should be questioning a person qualified to carry out a task I've asked him to do?

The "gap" was there before I installed the main caps in the engine, there is nothing there now.

Not on mine. They are Taiho bearings in STD size. Let me reiterate, there is/was nothing wrong with the crank. It was taken out for a check over, not because I spun a bearing or anything else. The bearings that came out were in good condition. I am not using Toyota bearings, I don't believe I need to be using oversized bearings. So what is the problem with what I have?

Here's the work I had carried out I'm away on holiday for a couple of weeks on Saturday so I'm going to struggle to pull a main cap and get a photo, but I will do when I return. The crank was measured as Standard/STD