StarletRick

mine ran like a bag of shit with the timing at 5e, i set it at 4e and its fine. the 5e marks on the cam, give a slight overlap on the valves. which is great for an NA engine. you need to spin em slightly to get them closed and to stop the overlap, which is good for turbos, hence the 4e marking. a perfect setup would be using the 4e markings, and having some fine adjustment on the cam gear itself to account for the extra height in the block. but that is effort. the 5e marks will work. but are not an ideal compression setup for a turbo. but you know, what do i know, its not like ive done it or anything, ivan said use the 5e marks so he must be right, hes a hero ;)

mother fucker i didnt know that. ill get me a cheeky race map sorted next time im up at EA.

you obviously wont get a guarantee with used stuff from japan mate. but i have a good eye for stuff and try my best not to get shitty parts. i even have a guy in japan who double checks things for me. so im quite confident in the parts i bring over. i can of course buy these parts new. but the Kayaba SR shocks alone cost about 300+ new.

how do you switch maps on the fcon?

its a stock bonnet with vents cut into the sides. and the bumper is a stock 98 spec.

unfortunatly, im a pro at starlet oil problems.... lol get the sump off and check the pressure release, its near the oil pump and looks like a long nut in the bottom of the block. it just unscrews. check that to see if its sticking open. if it is, take it off and soak it in petrol overnight. it should unclog it pretty well. i doubt its the pick up. youd have to have some stodgey shit in your engine over a LONG period of time to block that. and your engine hasnt even got 10k on it and is well looked after. if thats fine, check the actual pulley to see if its loose and slipping, mine did it a few weeks ago. and if you dont catch it intime itll shag the pump and youll get no oil pressure.

i run Kayaba SR shocks with RS*R Ti2000 springs. and they are lovely, the ride is firm but not harsh and i really like them. ive had Tein HA coils and D2s and i prefer the kayabas over both of them. the handling isnt as good as with coils, but the comfort outweights the performance loss. if you have sufficient braces on key chassis points you can get a car with relativly soft spring rates handling really well. mine does. the rear ARB is a good idea, they really do help the handling alot. as for price. you can get a good used set of Kayabas on yahoo with some good springs for about 250 quid. ive brought in several sets of them in the past.

firstly, check your linkages. they could be on their way out. then drain the box and get some decent oil in there. go for a drive to warm it all up and see if its ok then. if not, then its something more serious. is it only in lower gears (ie 1st and 2nd)?

it would only affect your insurance if it was considered more "desirable" so going from a dul red to say, a metallic blue. could make it more stealable. and a suitable adjustment in premium would be due.

my glanza has one on. but im not using a ct9 ;)

hes also sexy as fuck, youll defo want to make love to him. i do, every time i see him.

riko isnt allowed any bumfun. blowing out mother fucker that he is. theres still plenty of us to get a chain going though.

you from rayleigh as in essex?

you should be able to put it back together prety easy. just use some clear silicone sealant.

when i SVA'd my old glanza i glued them on ^^ soon as the sva was done, off they came!

you have my number, and you didnt ask. serves you right!

yours is UK spec bourkey, you have to have them. glanzas dont need them for the MOT, because it isnt on the car from factory, the kick in the arse is you have to have them for an SVA :\

paul, he hasnt said hes upgrading to the HKS actuator, he getting rid of the black EFI pipe. DONT block it off if your actuator is stock.

rear lights just unbolt. doesnt take long, sounds liek a seal has gone, youll be able to get a new one for peanuts from toyota.

my boss clocked me looking, and came over and sat down with me to enjoy. its just women in underwears.

id recommend a proper ECU. thats alot of oompf to be fuelling with a rrfpr... that sort of power you want something a little more tunable.

looks like its the 27th... more votes!

1) JAG (SR) (N) 2) Alex (Glanza) (N) 3) Joe-EP91 (Glanza) (N) 4) Rick (TC V) (N) 5) Jamie (Sportif) 6) Danny G (GLS) (N) 7) Defect (Glanza V) (N) ALex (GT) 9) Mikey Jay (N) 10) ChrisB (Glanza V) 11) daviesep91 12) glanza ragger

the bolt goes through the piece ive marked in green. and i think the part number is under the reference tab, where the red mark is.

can you also get me the bolt that holds the plate to the strut (90119-10399). and i will also need the nut that points up. it goes through the front of the strut and pushed the pump up. it looks like its covered up by that reference box in your original picture up there ^