Glanza_Ragger

And a sore ass hole..

oh my I play guitar but i cant play this game on anything other than easy

I know its the wrong section, but my posts never seem to get answered Anyway, anybody know how much outta cv boots are from toyota? and also how much they are from aftermarket places like blueprint? Also do they come with both the metal clips to re-fit ? Im fed up with bodging them with universal boots that only last a few weeks. If somebody could reply, it would be spot on because i need to get them ordered tomorrow. Cheers, Craig.

Revs suddenly rising when the engine is under load is more often than not, due to a dead or dying clutch.It will only get worse so get it sorted before it finally gives up completely. Go for a clutch thats rated for the power youre looking to handle, dont spunk money on a paddle if you dont need it, you'll only regret trying to drive it and the waste of cash. Think about what youre using the car for, trackdays, drag , fast road, daily commuting etc.

Yeah as above. My new clutch setups a paddle, moving from an organic which ive 100% mullered now

It will be, seeing as its one of the jobs thats often needed either through uprating or just replacing an oem unit. Could come in handy for a few of you, plus it'll save a few people a ton of cash getting the work carried out at a garage by gimps

Yeah, a 3SGTE.Think his names Dan or something, over on tgtt.com.

Theres a rough guide i found with a 2 second browse on google.Pretty much apply's to any car you want to change a clutch in.There all basically the same. If its youre first clutch job, get a mate at the ready for when you lift it back up as its easier with 4 hands to lift and slide the box back on. Buy a universal clutch alignment tool from halfrauds for about a tenner, its a tool you use to line the clutch disc up with the pressure plate off of the car, bolt them both together when there lined up and lift the complete unit onto the flywheel.Bolt the clutch assembly to the flywheel, unbolt th

Ive got a holographic cover

Buy a fuel cut defencer and a fuel pressure reg and crank that boost up to 10bar.Even better, strap a jet on the back ;) But seriously, before you start playing with boost.. try researching the engines a bit more..get onto toy town for some info

Haha self tappers + wood = immense! I used rivets through my sideskirts to hold them to the quarter panel and wings as the pu adhesive set..Then drilled them out and filled the holes..Seems like i wasted my time when i could have just whacked in some self tappers and be done with it.Thats just hardcore!

Nice guide buddy.Id suggest soldering the wires though if you have use of a soldering iron.Mainly because if one of those connection pieces comes loose, you'll have a head ache wondering why the light isnt working..And also any lives could come loose and spark up on the chassis and cause a fire near the insulation material.Highly unlikely but its possible.

Thanks Jay , Much appreciated again bud ;) I never used to worry about how much torque i gave my old saxo's flywheel..But i saw a nasty image of a honda integra dc5 that lost its flywheel.. Ended up through the transmission tunnel and out the roof of the car!! Kinda scared me if ya know what i mean I dont fancy being cut in half Cheers, Craig.

Can i have the torque settings for the flywheel and clutch please. Muchos thanks! Craig.

A piece of metal rod with electrical tape wrapped round it, roughly to the diameter of the hole will do it. Saves money on a universal tool that just wobbles around inside diy ftw

235, thats a good result for a TD04 @1bar. What type of 04 is it? because boost will depend on the type. Most people dont go above 1.4 on them.

I have an apiro filter.. okay its only a breather filter but what the hell.barrrrrgainnnnn at £2

My manifolds been on and off more than a hookers draws.Takes me about 20 minutes now. Buy all new gaskets like said, head to mani, and mani to turbo. Dont want to go to the hassle of fitting the new manifold and find out the old gaskets blowing.Thatll just make you want to kick the car Soak all the nuts in wd40 for a few days before you take them off, it'll release them a bit easier. Best thing to do, is remove the radiator, it'll give you alot more room to play with if you have fat hands like me ;) Also use a bit of loctite on the bolts/studs because there prone to vibrating loose over

Or even better, brand them with a red hot poker on there forehead with the word "cunt".

Use an electric buffer with some g3 rubbing compound and a water spray bottle.Spray the bonnet with water lightly, like a mist of water, then apply some g3 paste to the paintwork, and lightly buff the whole car over.Dont leave the buffer in one spot for too long or youll burn through the paintwork to the primer or metal underneath. Do it properly and itll bring the paintwork up like showroom condition. Before you do it, worth getting a stone chip pen and filling any chips/scratches then cutting the paintwork back.Take youre time and itll blend all the chips in and youll not notice them. Do

I think we made Billys mind up for him now, he's going for a marmite style starlet Heres 3 clues as to what style its going to be.. 1) its going to be sitting on the floor and totally smoothed. 2) its going to be running uber deep, tiny rims. 3) its nick name will be eurbo!!

Oh my god, more mindless behaviour from the people of this day and age! That car was immaculate everytime i saw it, allways saw him around my local area. How gutting is that, poor fella! Has he got no idea what so ever of who it was? Did it get burnt out in the odeon car park? Any cctv images of the little yobby pricks who did this? Ask him if theres any images and if there are, slap them straight up on here and ill keep an eye out as well as the rest of the medway lot! Tie them to a stake and setfire to them after torturing them slowly and painfull with a blunt rusty spoon!!!

Cant you use a sharp knife and cut the hose off ? or get a fat freind to put all his weight on it and yank it off?

As Wallace said bud, mainly incar adjustability. Allthough you will see slightly better spool times with a ebc that has the gain settings setup correct. Its handy to be able to switch between hi and low though. Actuator alone will do the job just fine.As would a manual boost controller fitted inside the engine bay or cockpit. If you go for a manual type, i suggest either a turbosmart or a forge type.There dawes types so they wont piss boost and give you uncontrollable spikes.

Air/fuel ratio probe should be at least 2foot away from turbo exhaust dont forget.Also try to mount it in a position that wont allow moisture to settle on it over night inside the pipe.IE angled slightly on the top side of the pipe, not the bottom nearest the road. Drill a hole in either youre downpipe or exhaust section, get a welder to weld the bung in and screw the probe in.Hook up the gauge to sidelight illumination if needed, earth and acc live, feed the probe wires through the gromet in the firewall and bang em into the gauge. What afr gauge did you buy bud? Hope its a wideband and not