Socks

yeh there shud be 2 corrasponding outlets on the inlet for them!

they go to the inlet manifold... and there to stop the idle dropping too low under power steering load...

im trying to help steve get his car sorted asap! if steve goes more then likely ill be passenger

u make it sound like thats a hard thing to do

no one local spend 20mins just plugging and playing!? 4 bolts and 3 connectors all u need to change them!

try another ecu? there only plgu n play.. 4 blts and the glovebox can be removed to gain access

it was doing this before he even fitted the d/v string ive tried putting my finger over all the vaccum inputs/outputs on the inlet... no change! air leak is screaming to me... cus steve didnt put a new inlet to head gasket on!

vss is vechile speed sensor... but there a cable on glanza's there isnt a sensor is there doesnt make any sense? :s

dont let a dodgey exprience put u down mate! emanage is a tried and tested way of doing it, it sucks it happened to you, try get ya money back and get yourself an ultimate! plug n plays r hard enuff to find leave off an auto one!

nearly sex wee'd all over my keyboard when i heard this! new NERO tune... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sl3kqfjxtm0

just to expand on this... unplugging the icv and tps do NOTHING idle does not change. screw is all the way in wont go anymore... no air leaks i can see ether...

not wat i originally said then! more likely turbo then!

sounds like your headgasket has failed between a cylinder and oil way if its filling the catch tank!

white smoke if it aintr condensation... then it cud be early start of headgasket failure...

rotated itself when warmed up :s probably why the pin is there in the first place :/

id guess there will be a locating PIN stopping us from doing that!

wat a ball ache! the turbo is rotated too much (alot more then stock) so the hot pipe is rubbing on the front support bar (too far forward) and the bottom of the hot pipe is pushed back towards the engine. meanign the fmic pipework has to be extended by 1.5inchs! we cudnt use a silicone joiner luke cus its right on a curve/bend and wouldnt join properly and securly with a joiner fights us every step of the way fucking thing..

yes/no depends on there construction and what materials are used i guess.. dont let some of the ting tong monkey metal manifold on ebay put off. mild steel rusts and look gash after a few months... stainless steel if done properly is far suprior!

if u want stainless steel that wont crack: www.race-tech.net

some kind of drag spec GT

glad your finally in her matey! good fun arent they ;) make all the right noises!

manifold looks cool. for now.. ill see what happens to it after a spirited drive! glqad its all sorted tho dude ;)

best exhaust sound for these cars imo!im gonna miss mine tho, not gonna be able to hear shit over the screamer lol ;)

mmmm sex wee.

TD04 is a very good setup, tried and tested! quick spool but offering more power and torque then the stock ct9 blower... ontop of that you can run them on 1bar on the stock engine safely, then if and when you forge the engine you can ramp the boost up to 1.6bar and get 250-270bhp... ontop of all that, cheap units to buy and alot of the time stock rad friendly! Race-Tech's kit is awesome... it comes with everything you need to fit one up! http://www.race-tech.net/index.php?main_pa...amp;cPath=2_4_5 Wepr & Zisco also offer similar kits!