gorganl2000

hey mickey...did you remove all of the old head bolts at the same time........and then install all of the new arp bolts?

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100863-Cylinder-head-removal-and-installation-info i'd follow the pattern for head bolt installation to remove and replace each bolt at a time...starting in number 1 position...then to number 2 position and so forth...somehow it seems less likely that the head will lift with this method which starts in the centre of the head and progresses slowly outwards

disclaimer in advance---i have not tried this procedure myself now that is out of the way, it may be possible to change the head bolts without removing the head and ruining your headgasket...basically you would take out one old h/bolt at a time and replace with one new h/bolt at a time and re-tighten WHILE following the normal h/bolt installation procedure..when all of the bolts are replaced, then follow arp's procedures and final torque settings as required..i hope you understand what i'm trying to say there maybe some other members can comment on this method oh, to add, my other

try the breakers section http://www.ukstarletowners.com/forum/194-breakers-yard/ and put an ad in the wanted section http://www.ukstarletowners.com/forum/7-wanted/

as 5e colin said....however, the gear ratios, final drives and even internal strength differ significantly....so be careful what you choose for your intended application

why longer brake lines morgey?....i run this exact set up, but then again i have braided lines,,,i never checked to see if they were longer than stock when i changed over years ago

what size are these discs?

how do the new tires compare to the toyo r1r you ran before? what brand and size are the new tires?...205/50/15?

general question as you seem to have been sorted advice wise----is this a solid disc or "spring-centre" clutch?

i can understand exactly what you are saying richard....and i can agree for the most part as said before, its really just business for these guys...for one reason or the other they choose their paths---and its usually profit involved somewhere in that decision

very true adam,,,those top end brands are top end for a reason...i'm no tuner nor have i tuned anything, but i've been lucky enough to see a few low, mid and top end brands being installed/tuned/set-up....when you start dealing with the high end stuff, it really starts to get serious

now after the above suggestions......i'll offer you a little free business advice just to get you in that frame of mind: - start with one main high demand simple product or a few decent selling simple products first to gauge response/demand, build your "brand" and test actual customer/everyday durability....it appears that n/a manifolds and seat rails are in decent demand based on the above, which would be a good starting point - display your products with high quality pictures and at different angles...even fitted to the specific car they are intended for if possible - find out e

for 200bhp...quality organic performance/sports clutch (cusco, trd, act, etc) AND uprated pressure plate (cusco, trd, act, etc)....this set up will take more than 200hp and similar torque...it feel like stock and works great --- anyone who doesn't go to the gym will still be able to drive your car

in my opinion its all personal preference...like with anything else as said, some tuners are more familiar with certain ecu/software than others, so they tend to want to stick to what they know, as no one wants to risk destroying an engine while tuning the reasons for the preferences may be influenced by infinite reasons---distributor contracts, familiarity with hardware/software, costs, piggy vs standalone, hear say, ease of installation, need for peripheral accessories, inputs/outputs, processing speeds, ancillary controls, etc. i'd suggest you stick to whatever the tuner you choose is

trd gasket is reportedly 0.6mm....therefore not the same as the 5efhe gasket

little side note ...be very careful with LC settings and usage...it can ruin your engine in a few seconds it has its purposes, but at the same times its nothing to play with for any extended period (or at all depending)

i cant comment on the n/a auto...but i can tell you for sure that the auto ep91 glanza tps has a 4 wire connection and is variable

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=11115-11071&mU=on&mE=on&mJ=on&mG=on there is reportedly a thinner 0.5/0.8mm head gasket as well---for the DIS 5efe

very useful info androo26 one of my favorite combinations has always been the 5efye with td04l.....excellent daily car

good idea, .it would put less strain on the transmission excellent to hear

i'm a big fan of special projects and over the years i have followed many ep82/91 conversions (5efte, k20, 3sgte, 4age 16v/20v, 4agte, 2zz, etc.)...they make for variety and add some flavour ...i think they have their place if the owner understands what the overall purpose is (showcar, hobby, drag, race, self fulfillment, etc) and has the means to build it properly (funds/money, tools, skills, knowledge, etc) in saying that, over the years some members on the various starlets sites have started projects and either aborted them early or built them on tight budgets and therefore have not

yeah...keep me posted on how it works

yeah colin...it worked great for almost a year...i only recently took out the box to get a full rebuild yeah i'd say short term fix...because the damage was already done in my case and i'm not certain if the heavy shockproof is gl rated for our boxes--which could potentially lead to more problems in the long run, yeah i had the red color one i think yours is blue/green color??

there was a member either on here or ttgt that ran what seemed to be 100% redline shockproof in their racing gearbox,,,but i cant recall who