gorganl2000

hey mickey...did you remove all of the old head bolts at the same time........and then install all of the new arp bolts?

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100863-Cylinder-head-removal-and-installation-info i'd follow the pattern for head bolt installation to remove and replace each bolt at a time...starting in number 1 position...then to number 2 position and so forth...somehow it seems less likely that the head will lift with this method which starts in the centre of the head and progresses slowly outwards

disclaimer in advance---i have not tried this procedure myself now that is out of the way, it may be possible to change the head bolts without removing the head and ruining your headgasket...basically you would take out one old h/bolt at a time and replace with one new h/bolt at a time and re-tighten WHILE following the normal h/bolt installation procedure..when all of the bolts are replaced, then follow arp's procedures and final torque settings as required..i hope you understand what i'm trying to say there maybe some other members can comment on this method oh, to add, my other concern is that you are using a MLS h/gasket, which may not be as forgiving to any disturbances as an oem stock h/gasket

try the breakers section http://www.ukstarletowners.com/forum/194-breakers-yard/ and put an ad in the wanted section http://www.ukstarletowners.com/forum/7-wanted/

as 5e colin said....however, the gear ratios, final drives and even internal strength differ significantly....so be careful what you choose for your intended application

why longer brake lines morgey?....i run this exact set up, but then again i have braided lines,,,i never checked to see if they were longer than stock when i changed over years ago

what size are these discs?

how do the new tires compare to the toyo r1r you ran before? what brand and size are the new tires?...205/50/15?

general question as you seem to have been sorted advice wise----is this a solid disc or "spring-centre" clutch?

i can understand exactly what you are saying richard....and i can agree for the most part as said before, its really just business for these guys...for one reason or the other they choose their paths---and its usually profit involved somewhere in that decision

very true adam,,,those top end brands are top end for a reason...i'm no tuner nor have i tuned anything, but i've been lucky enough to see a few low, mid and top end brands being installed/tuned/set-up....when you start dealing with the high end stuff, it really starts to get serious

now after the above suggestions......i'll offer you a little free business advice just to get you in that frame of mind: - start with one main high demand simple product or a few decent selling simple products first to gauge response/demand, build your "brand" and test actual customer/everyday durability....it appears that n/a manifolds and seat rails are in decent demand based on the above, which would be a good starting point - display your products with high quality pictures and at different angles...even fitted to the specific car they are intended for if possible - find out exactly what the customers want before you make a product that does not sell....ask questions, do little surveys......example from above n/a manifolds---what design (4-2-1 or 4-1), size of runners preferred, stock location exhaust fitment, stock a/c, p/s and radiator friendly, etc. - calculate as best as possible the production cost for each unit and your profit margin on each item you intend to sell...that would allow you to price it accordingly without "guessing" and determine if it is worthwhile to make and if reasonable customers are willing to buy it...example above, no one is going to buy a n/a manifold for gbp1000 for a starlet ----remember to take into account labour, raw materials, electricity, delivery/transportation, etc. - potential demand does not necessarily equate to foregone sales---seldom does - avoid borrowing if you can when you start up...try as best to do it out of pockets for now until you can gauge demand/sales - reinvest some of the sales monies back into the business..do not tie up all your cash flow in slow turning stock and excessive stock - undertake as much testing and research and development as you can BEFORE you sell anything---improve design, reduce production costs, make sure it fits and doesn't hit/stop/block anything, test durability, use decent quality material, etc. - set up decent jigs and check them from time to time for fitment tolerances - use decent quality materials to manufacture your products,,,do not manufacture crap, it will just ruin your brand and name---this is not 1902 when the internet was non-existent,,, word travels fast especially bad word - if you provide product warrantee, honor them IF the product is at fault---be careful, some people will try to pull a fast one on you - provide good before, during and after sales services....PLEASE respond in a time manner to potential and actual customer emails/pm/whatsapps/etc....you see this last point here, this is where a lot of businesses actually fail...it is very important....just take a look at the feedback sections on here - if you plan to ship overseas, try to find decent rates and reliable courier/post offices...again, keep in contact with buyers regarding shipping dates, tracking numbers, shipping quotes, etc that's just the tip of the ice berg,,,much more to a "successful" business if you go ahead with your plans, i wish you well

for 200bhp...quality organic performance/sports clutch (cusco, trd, act, etc) AND uprated pressure plate (cusco, trd, act, etc)....this set up will take more than 200hp and similar torque...it feel like stock and works great --- anyone who doesn't go to the gym will still be able to drive your car

in my opinion its all personal preference...like with anything else as said, some tuners are more familiar with certain ecu/software than others, so they tend to want to stick to what they know, as no one wants to risk destroying an engine while tuning the reasons for the preferences may be influenced by infinite reasons---distributor contracts, familiarity with hardware/software, costs, piggy vs standalone, hear say, ease of installation, need for peripheral accessories, inputs/outputs, processing speeds, ancillary controls, etc. i'd suggest you stick to whatever the tuner you choose is comfortable...it makes life easy this way. some tuners will have preferences but still work with other brand ecus/piggybacks,,,,while some tuners will only work with the ecus they sell or know about.....there is really no wrong way, its just business at the end of the day whatever system you end up choosing, i'd again suggest you keep a few things in mind---cost, reliability, software updates, car set up upgrades, distance to tuner if/when tweaks are needed, reputation, etc.

trd gasket is reportedly 0.6mm....therefore not the same as the 5efhe gasket

little side note ...be very careful with LC settings and usage...it can ruin your engine in a few seconds it has its purposes, but at the same times its nothing to play with for any extended period (or at all depending)

i cant comment on the n/a auto...but i can tell you for sure that the auto ep91 glanza tps has a 4 wire connection and is variable

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=11115-11071&mU=on&mE=on&mJ=on&mG=on there is reportedly a thinner 0.5/0.8mm head gasket as well---for the DIS 5efe

very useful info androo26 one of my favorite combinations has always been the 5efye with td04l.....excellent daily car

good idea, .it would put less strain on the transmission excellent to hear

i'm a big fan of special projects and over the years i have followed many ep82/91 conversions (5efte, k20, 3sgte, 4age 16v/20v, 4agte, 2zz, etc.)...they make for variety and add some flavour ...i think they have their place if the owner understands what the overall purpose is (showcar, hobby, drag, race, self fulfillment, etc) and has the means to build it properly (funds/money, tools, skills, knowledge, etc) in saying that, over the years some members on the various starlets sites have started projects and either aborted them early or built them on tight budgets and therefore have not gotten the most out of them...my advice to anyone doing such a project is to undertake the necessary research, then re-research that research ,,set up a physical budget (excel, paper, something) and see how the costs unfold...then add in 10% - 20% contingencies for when stuff goes wrong or just pops up now with regards to the specific 3sgte conversion,,,back in the day this was considered because some felt it would make the light body starlet into a missile/rocket..a few have done it and realised it made easier power than the 4e/5e, but the conversion process, weight distribution, customization and other related issues generally outweighed the benefits.......even when the money tree was strong and it was done successfully, there were issues of getting the power to the ground. i'd advice anyone attempting such "exotic" engine conversions (not referring to the direct swap 5e) to have good supporting people and/or know how to do a lot of this stuff yourself, as it would help keep the costs down..from a cost benefit perspective, the built 4efte or 5efte with a matching turbo, ecu, etc to support your power needs usually works out cheaper, easier and possibly more reliable...its been proven that you can get from 300bhp - nearly 570bhp out of these 4e/5e engines depending on how far you want to take it. just to reiterate, please thoroughly think through all of the logistics before attempting such projects,,,so you can decide to abort early (never start) or see the project completely through in a satisfactory manner....i'd close by saying that, i've also realised that some people will do what they want regardless, which is totally fine first 3sgte in a starlet i saw was in the early 2000s from australia if i remember correctly...it was very nicely done

yeah...keep me posted on how it works

yeah colin...it worked great for almost a year...i only recently took out the box to get a full rebuild yeah i'd say short term fix...because the damage was already done in my case and i'm not certain if the heavy shockproof is gl rated for our boxes--which could potentially lead to more problems in the long run, yeah i had the red color one i think yours is blue/green color??

there was a member either on here or ttgt that ran what seemed to be 100% redline shockproof in their racing gearbox,,,but i cant recall who