gorganl2000

i used redline heavy shockproof 75w-250 as said before, i used it as a band-aid for a crashing 3rd gear to minimise any noise/crunching until it was removed for a rebuild 1 litre mt90 and 1 litre heavy 75w-250 shockproof was my formula i know it was not the best for my syncros in the long term, but it worked great in the short term maybe the lightweight shockproof 75w-140 may be better suited to our gearbox??? as its listed under the manual transmission section http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7

i tried a mix of redline shockproof and mt90 ...1 litre each in the box i recently took out of the car....it used to have an occasional crunch on 3rd gear (syncro worn) which that oil mix temporarily resolved till i took the box out for an overhaul

our resident hill climb boss mr phil those roads sure look like absolute fun were you running the glanza or gt box?---regarding the 3rd gear that was destroyed earlier

i think there is a radiator from some of the n/a starlets that is few inches shorter length wise than the gt/glanza radiator?!?! its single core i ran one in the past....i actually used it as a pattern to make a custom double core radiator

i tend to learn from other people's mistakes...and i've been involved with starlets since 1999,,,i've followed uk, american, australian, caribbean, etc websites on these cars...i've done tonnes of research...i literally had folders and harddrives filled with information i'm a fan for genuine toyota parts for the 4e/5e engines...they have proven to be reliable in the average and even some above average projects

hey TimD...i can't exactly say there is a set point at which you would need a mls gasket.... its best to determine that with your engine builder and the ultimate intent of the engine/car. but for the average road going ct9/tfo35/td04/gt28/vf,td05 project that many of the members seem to go for,,,then i'd say toyota/oem h'gasket will suffice...it may even work for the odd track day, drag racing, etc http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/87831-brand-new-genuine-headgasket/?hl=headgasket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-STARLET-1-3-GT-TURBO-GLANZA-V-HEADGASKET-HEAD-GASKET-OEM-GENUINE-/14

thanks for the response richard over the years i've seen many builds go for mls gaskets...many of them were relatively moderate/mild builds too...but just wanted to use mls because of being advised to or "hearing" they are the "best"....to this day i have mixed views on mls gaskets...,especially certain brands and the number of knock off floating about i dont think your slight cr difference will make any notable difference...the build should be safe once tuned properly personally, i'm a big fan of the genuine/toyota stock headgasket UNLESS a proper mls is absolutely needed for th

richard,,,question for you...why did you choose to go with a mls gasket vs the oem gasket for the project? i'm not directly talking about mls brands now, but in general terms

you can also inspect/test/replace the usual ignition related items...plugs, spark wires, distributor, ignitor and the others you changed before

yeah...the 5 speed levin 4a gearbox have the 8 bolt crown wheel---c52 abd c56 with 4.3 final drive however, remember that the final drive is different to the ep82/91 which is 3.7

http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/trackday/wheels-tyres-accessories/toyo-r1-r-tyre http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Kumho/Ecsta-XS-KU36.htm i dont know if they come in 14's...but i'd recommend either for road use if you can find the size you need

yeah...aasco seem very popular from back in the day...i believe it uses the 212mm set up as well, but you can verify when you speak to sam

what gearbox oil and GL rating does Toyota recommend for a completely stock gearbox?--ep91/c56 is there a difference between the recommended gearbox oil for an ep82/c52 vs ep91/c56? i did a search and seem to find a lot of aftermarket oils being used,,,i'd prefer the stock oil for this particular box...i dont want any problems with syncro wear, etc

just a little side note gainzy....you might want to inquire/consider which clutch and pressure plate assembly you plan to run 5e - 200mm 4efte - 212mm some 5e flywheels carry the bigger 212mm set up,,,while others do not

i assisted my mechanic with this process on my ep91 a few years ago....i can recall it being a pain....not overly difficult, but just tedious its best to do it on a ramp and you may need assistance to make it easier...from memory, remove the wheels (may give you more space to work with) ,,there is a bolt at the bottom of the steering rack inside the car...slacken that (its splined off to the steering rack), rod ends have to be disconnected from the hubs, i think there were two "u" type clamps holding it to the firewall which those have to be removed...there there is the section just be the fi

i bought a part from this member...the item was as described and the price was VERY good shipping was reasonable and he had no problems sorting it out for me---and i live far away excellent communication throughout the process.... based on my experience, i would strongly recommend this seller

for what your said...i'd just leave it as stock ignition system....i've seen many hit 300/400bhp all over the world on the stock system save your money for something else

just a side thought really after reading the tread...is there really any notable difference between the td12 hybrid and the tf035 (4cm)?..based on what's said of the tf035 and the internals/makings of the td12,...they appear to fall within similar power band

my recommendation in cases like this...check your existing bmc size...then upgrade by 1/16, i know it doesn't sound like a lot, but in bmc sizes its significant ps- remember to always bleed your system properly and make sure everything is properly connected and in satisfactory working order, afterall these are brakes we are talking about----very important stuff

well the 7/8 bmc was installed today (came out of a 1992 gt ep82)...everything fit right up with NO modifications needed...this replaces the original 13/16 bmc that came with my car came (ep91 glanza v) for reference, my brake set up is celica/levin twin pots and astra discs i can safely say that i am now satisfied with my brake travel and braking ---it feels firm, but not overly so that long travel and "spongy" feeling is gone

ok..i just checked my friend's 1992 gt ep82....it has on 7/8 BMC---confirmed (the part number according to toyodiy is 47201-16190) i will try this 7/8 on my own car and see how it feels and report back ---maybe in the next week or two, if time permits i'm kind of in agreement with mech5107 on not going too big....the 7/8 to 15/16 is probably good enough for the twin pot conversion PS another part number 47201-16210...for the paseo BMC seems to be 7/8 in size as well--not confirmed

can anyone with a 1992/93/94 turbo ep82 tell me what size BMC is in their car?

i had it before,,,but will work it out now again...give me a few mins ok..stock piston i believe is 51mm diameter...so 22/7 x 25.5 x 25.5 = 2044mm2 approximately twin pots i see are 40.4mm diamater...so (22/7 x 20.2 x 20.2) x 2 = 2565mm2 approximately that's an area difference of 521mm2 or 25.5% increase in piston area over stock another variables to consider maybe the volume of fluid in the back of the caliper, piston length differences, BMC displacement for a given bore size/length, etc in the theory and strictest sense of things, if we consider a 25% increase i

did you try a diagnostic?----its free and easy

what size Brake master cylinder did the EP82 (non abs and ABS) come with? did all EP91 come with abs? thanks to morgey...i found out the toyota levin ae111 that comes with twin pot calipers and ABS, carries a 7/8 brake master cylinder (BMC) as standard...from my past investigations, the twin pots from the Celica st202 are also the same (or very close) as the levin twin pots. in the past, i've heard some persons say they experience a slightly softer brake pedal when upgrading to these bigger twin pot calipers over the stock units...and it seems logical in terms of pressure vs fluid mo