gorganl2000

no you need a n/a ep91 fields extension harness pre-wired for the emb some sellers/traders offer this for the turbo models, i'm not sure if its the same or different for the n/a model ...i'm sure other members can give you a direct link or advice

it seems the general consensus from years ago is that they do nothing...basically you can shift the power band slightly from the left or right...but hp gains are non-existent in a nut shell, our cams are linked and that's part of the "problem" apparently they look good on the engines though...lol.....but again becareful, as some people reported that the timing was sometimes off, so you would need to double check everything

welcome to the darkside...lol very nice turbo

glad to hear you got it resolved

they are number 2 oem bearings however, you will need to properly measure your crank etc. as outlined before, to ensure its within specs and no damaged you need a good brand mircometer....no cheap crap the 4efte oem specs are listed in the manual i think on here and ttgt if you don't know what you are doing or unfamiliar with the process, i'd suggest taking it or invite someone over who is. Reason being, if you do this wrong, your new bearings will not last very long and you will be back at square one again based on the scarring on some of the bearings, i'm surprised your cran

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?20735-FMIC-comparisons-King-thread/page12 take a look on the last page...scroll down...think there are a few pics near the bottom also, take a look through the entire tread, especially for wepr kits, as they are small and tend to fit behind the stock bumper pretty easily apart from that you may have to do some shaving and/or piping customization to fit larger cores

that's what comes to my mind too as i said earlier, its something to do with nissan...just seems so long ago

any chance the wastegate flap on the turbine housing is "catching" on to the downpipe of the new set up? when it's boosting low, maybe check to see if the actuator is stuck "open" its a weird situation you metioned...is there any kind of electronic/manual boost controller involved which maybe acting up?

from my memory it was a 4efte...with a lot of boost at that time in starlet history i had the specs on paper,,,but disposed of a lot of stuff when i moved a while back... i had documentation on starlets (builds, specs, turbos, power, etc) from the 1990s from austarlet, ttgt, tercelonline, wheelsjamaica, ivan's site, bajanchameleon, hardcoreep, etc....tons of info in folders...lol all gone now...smh.

adamb, by any chance do you faintly recall a car from australia/new zealand way back in the late 1990s or early 2000s belonging to a guy name dale (10sec rx7 forum name)? if my memory serves me correctly, it was some kind of 11.8 sec black ep82 which was rather simply built (stockish 4efte) but delivered on the drag strip...again, iirc they had like 100-125psi cylinder pressures but ran a ton of boost...for some reason i'm thinking either 2-3mm headgasket, but controlled with autronic (or microtech) that's too far a trip down memory lane to recall all facts lol

somehow i recall some 0.48 housing being associated with some kind of nissan pulsar/240??? maybe something in T25 or T3 design....not sure if they would fit it was a long time ago, so the memory may wrong lol

adamb, the fact that all his cylinders read the same is kind of good news it tells me either the engine was built to be purposely low compression in the past and may be run massive boost (drag racing seems popular in malta) OR the cheap guage is reading wrong he could always try a proper brand gauge or take it to a garage/friend and get a proper test done i really don't think anything is wrong with his engine based on the information in this tread thus far

seems it was a mistake, the ebay ad was updated to reflect that both turbos produce 350 - 400hp

my thoughts exactly...they look like the exact same spec the only other difference is a note behind the turbine wheel...(GT28R turbine wheel) is missing in one of the links, but same dimensions on both turbine wheels still might be a mistake

copper plugs work fine

will try...but last i know ttgt search button was down for a while now

yeah, most likely scenerio due to weather you mentioned water in the distributor cap and/or plugs will cause it to run very rough and misfire

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-Bolt-On-Ball-Bearing-Turbocharger-Subaru-WRX-STI-GTX2863R-49-GC8-GDA-GDB-/171958619141?hash=item2809884c05:g:cb4AAOSw7aBVGUv4&vxp=mtr this is rated to 300 -350 hp http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-GTX-Ball-Bearing-3-Turbocharger-SUBARU-WRX-STI-GTX2863R-w-49-Hsg-GC-good-/181851777983?hash=item2a5735ebbf:g:iLgAAOSwo6lWIe84&vxp=mtr yet this one is rated 350 - 400hp any thoughts behind the difference?

from what i've heard around, our base fuel seem to be like 90 ron... that's why the meth kits seem to be somewhat popular over here yeah i saw those links in my searches...very informative now in terms of turbine housings...i see a number of a/r options 0.57, 0.64, 0.72, 0.84 which seem equivalent to approximately 8, 9 10, 11 cm2 respectively....apart from the 0.57, aren't the others on the biggish side of things for our 4e/5e engine? i see Mamba offers a 0.49 (7 cm2) turbine housing for Subaru fitment (gtx2863r, gtx2867r, etc), which a lot of guys here run this exhaust manifold/do

good to hear there is noted improvement on the road, as that is where it really matters. i simply see dynos as a tuning/learning tool and can be very useful, but as we said in other posts, sometimes persons get lost in aiming for peak numbers instead of the overall power band you guys get some decent pump gas compared to here...quite a few guys runs meth kits to improve the quality to your RON levels

yes stu. the helical i have in my car is to rather "daily driver friendly"...drives normal under general conditions, but comes on nicely when needed and you will know its there for sure....easy maintenance and regular gearoil for the odd track purposes i'd say it would be ok....but if the driver is a hardcore track enthusiast then id recommend a more dedicated lsd when i tried to find the part number for oem which it appears is 41301-12190 whereas trd part number is 41301-AE000

excellent advice

that's extremely low, especially for a 5e n/a 5e is around 200psi turbo low compresson 5e usually around 150-180psi dependings on spec of engine/pistons/h.gasket/chamber work the good news is that all your cylinders measure the same can you get someone to help you with the test? ...and what brand gauge is this?

exact same...hasn't leaked in 8 years....just clean both surfaces properly, apply some engine silicone to the respective areas and secure with the centre bolt to the correct torque specs

is there a noticeable improvement in boost response on gear changes between the Ball Bearing gt/gtx series over the Journal Bearing td05/vf35/greddy turbos?