gorganl2000

may need to remove gearbox...maybe throw out bearing or something not sitting properly or even clutch/pp itself best to inspect it maybe let someone press the clutch while you take a look at the gearbox and fork to see if you hear/see anything wrong

had some on a gt long ago...dropped about an inch....not massively low rode well to me...even on the rougher back roads

its also possible with a greddy fmic kit...........i have ac on my ep91 with this kit however, i think this kit is specific to the ep91 but as the others told you....many solutions are available for you to choose from

I know it will fit....but i dont know if it will work given the ect connections on the 4efte automatic transmission. Does the n/a autobox carry ect? Is the connection the same?...is it a matter of repinning? Will it work without the ect? Also, will it last? Those are my questions

Just a wild guess....but how is your fuel filter?

Only one suggestion...i'd recommend emu instead of the emb Its a similar price if you get a good deal (used)...and its just a better unit

Hey phil I know back in the day guys used to use levin 4age c52/56 gearboxes as they have the same ratios as starlet c52/56 gearboxes.....but had a shorter final drive of 4.3 Seemed to be used on mildly powered starlets to keep them in the revs and build power faster You will need to use the starlet bellhousing

will be whatever your tuner and your budget allows

http://tunertools.com/articles/FordMuscle.pdf very good read...that's how i decided ages ago to buy an innovate if you are lazy, just go to page 3 lol

well i beleive you should look at the rest of your ignition components ----plugs, leads, coil, ignitor and the wiring do you have a friend close by that you can swap parts over one by one and test? or a multimeter? did your diagnostic show anything?

if it is the crank...i'd suggest you get a "used" good condition replacement, get it checked by a machine shop and completely clean your engine and oil pick up/pathways as its likely to have ground up metal in there some where which came from the spun bearings/crank.......maybe even a complete bottom end if you can reason i say this...it will save you trouble in the long run you have to check all clearances again too....best to be safe just changing a bearing will not work

i've used innovate xd-16 (this one had the separate LC2 unit) in the past.... and now run innovate mtx-L (everything built into the unit---no separate LC2 unit to wire up) the separate lc2 requires a little more wiring up...but nothing difficult if you know what you are doing.....regardless though, always use proper grounds both of them worked flawlessly......you can run the output wire to emu and datalog afrs and other parameter you choose with no problems at all you just have to attach it to the emu via the special emu cable and select "innovate" on the emu http://www.greddy.com/up

i'd suggest you follow stu's advice....its possible the boost is blowing out the spark at high rpm/boost, which is making the car "miss" what is the gap you currently use and how much boost are you running for higher boost a gap of 0.6 - 0.8mm maybe necessary

sounds like your master or slave cylinder is losing pressure look for leaks near the slave rubber/boot (you may need to slide the boot off to see if any fuild is in it) and check the master cylinder to see if the fluid has turned dark/black

you are correct....they used ct26 and ct12 wheels...even the mazda gtx wheel at some points.....with some porting of the stock housing...this was the first part then some sellers realised they were gains to be made from porting the housing as you correctly said it was a bottle neck....some ported just the penny hole, while some even ported the housing itself which i suppose changes the a/r??---toby, speedvision, (JD?? if i remember there were some issues with him), etc i suspect the blitz k1 is something similar along those lines these were the rave in australia, caribbean, uk and malta

that will depend on your setting....but i'd imagine up to 5-10psi maybe possible it may be risky to hold it there for an extended period though

i do think the power fc is old tech....though it can still do a decent job but if anyone is planning to go standalone then there are several decents systems out there depending on your budget and requirements. and with respect to piggy back, i'd choose emu over emb anyday

u make great points again adamb ---- its refreshing to have discussions without people getting all upset and cussing out as i see on some treads...lol i know that an upgrade of turbo should be taken in its entirety...with proper testing and all however, do you recall maybe about 10 - 15 year ago when all the hype was about the "hiflow" ct9s?---some did compressor wheel swaps only....some added compressor housing swaps....some added turbine housing porting....some even added turbine wheel swaps some combinations worked..while others were not much better than the stock ct9b same

adamb....what type of wheel is on the garrett gt turbo...billet or cast? http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?109631-billet-compressor-wheels-6-6-vs-7-7-vs-11-blade like the kind of info rev provided here....some estimates on spool, hp, where the power comes on, etc i agree with your logic concerning the compressor hole size...but if its not maximized yet, then there is room for improvement----this is just for argument sake, as i cant prove i'm one of those persons who likes a lot of info before i make any decision....i'm not one to buy into marketing hyp

that was an interesting read adam b only wished to find more info on the different style blades on these billet wheels seems they make their additional power from diameter enlargement and design enhancements

thanks adamB...will take a look at the site and see what it has to say

any information and real life experiences with respect to the various billet compressor wheel blade count/design and its impact on turbo spool and power delivery/curve? some even have extended tip exducer seems there a lot of billet wheels out there for sale

is your car modified?.......if so, id advise you save some money till you can afford a genuine pump i also went with a denso pump directly from the toyota dealer (celica gt4 fuel pump if i remember correctly),,,,it was more expensive but never had a problem with it and NO loud noise...about 7-8 years running now based on the choices above....i would go with aeromotive or denso

are both engines e series?

hey timD...there's a member on ttgt who i KNOW uses emu to control boost via a 3 port solenoid drop him a PM---Guye http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/member.php?440-Guye if you do, let me know,,,i can tell him to look for it as he is not on ukso as far as i'm aware he can give you all the advice you need http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?108280-Boost-solenoid-Hi-lo-wiring&p=1147257#post1147257