gorganl2000

thanks boss. think i saw your name pop up in one of the searches what brand turbo was it if i may ask or custom job?

its very important to check afr, however i find persons neglect to check for knock/detonation this is even more important if you have poor pump fuel/gasoline

now i've been doing some research over the last few weeks trying to find some answers and though i've gathered some useful info there are still some gray areas. i'm hoping you guys can assist who have experience with these turbos on our 4e/5e. i'm considering this possible upgrade, that's why im asking.....the 20g is not an option my questions are: - its there a significant difference in terms of overall WHP and torque produced between the stock mhi/ihi units (td05 16g, vf/28/30/34/35/39/43/48/52) versus the upgraded/high-flow/billet wheel td05 16g/18g (arashi, blouch,kamak,kinugawa), greddy t517z, evo3 16g, big 16g. its hard to find flow rates for ihi turbos, but it seems the stock units above flow about 34/36 lb/min making them possibly 340/360bhp units on maybe a 2000cc sized engine, on our cars we may fall a bit short. these upgrades are supposed to be rated at 39-43 lb/min depending on choice so that's possibly 390-430bhp approximately what actual power/torque have you been able to produce and at what boost?----i've checked the power board, but it doesn't really say whether the td05 is stock or upgrade unit - is there a noticeable lag/rpm/spool/response difference between these upgraded units over the stock units - would the member who have ran both stock and upgraded units advice that its a worthwhile upgrade bearing power/torque/price in mind. any comments and information provided is welcomed. PS - i've done a search on here and found some info, but its a little challenging to get the search narrowed down to save time

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xturbosmart+eboost+2&_nkw=turbosmart+eboost+2&_sacat=0 i'm going to recommend something a bit different from everyone so far i've used this for about 6 years now...it's easy to install, set up and is very stable. its a well built unit with a ton of features (just like some of the above) i've had my fair share of trying to help friends set up blitz, greddy, apexi, etc...but this is my choice and i never regretted it http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/e-Boost2/eBoost2-60mm-Black.html click the details, applications tabs to get some brief info comes in 60 and 66mm sizes in various color combinations

i used the red/black "speaker wire" to run from the hearing aid to the stud ring/mic never had any noise/electrical interference using it i secure it to a 12/14mm bolt hole at the front of the head, just about midway

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?96109-wiring-quadlights&highlight=quad+lights no certain if that's any help to you

i built a set based on 2 forums http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/95756-diy-electronic-detonation-detection-det-cans-under-25-dollars.html i followed this site, except i ended up placing the mic into a stud ring so i could secure it to the engine more securely as shown in the second link http://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/another-electronic-det-can-example-61616/page2/ i used epoxy to stick it in the stud ring works greats and cheap to build

meister are nice coliovers i use them and never hand any problems the spring rates are a good match for the coil overs and everyday driving plenty of adjustability both height and soft/hard wise

what's the matter with the sard one you have? where did you purchase it from? genuine sard is very high quality

all the parts should be there to do a swap over assuming both cars are complete i did an automatic to manual conversion on my glanza ep91 years ago...i know there was something electrical that needed to be bridged to get the car to start and 3 holes had to be drilled to fit the clutch master cylinder to the firewall the rest was simple swapping over of parts see what the other members say....there should be a guide on here or ttgt about doing the swap....try searching

the rear arb does wonders for the starlet/glanza. it really makes driving more predictable. imo you need to combine it with all the other suspension parts to get the full benefit ---- rear strut brace and coilover or uprated shocks & springs, good tires

http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/38mm-UltraGate-Springs/ http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/40mm-CompGate-Springs/ etc u can find the various springs and colors for the different wastegates on thier website...just click on your model wastegate to find out

i've seen experiences/results to what you have said many different hybrid tdo4s on the market, ---the same for hybrid ct9s,,,,some show improvements over the stock units, while others not so much are the improvements over stock units worth the price of these hybrids?!?! that's for the buyer to decide after their research and based on their budget it all starts to get a bit technical when you go messing with the compressor wheel, you install a bigger one to increase flow),,,, then get some surge/spike and taper, then you go messing with exhaust/turbine wheel and porting the exhaust housing/wastegate to counter...then you get some lag some turbo builders manage to strike a balance, but keep their secrets close as would be expected,,,,,others not so much with the range of stock turbos out there nowadays, one can almost find an affordable turbo to match their needs without having to buy/build a hybrid, especially if you have already garrett/mhi/TD series exhaust manifold on your ep82/91

thanks for the response

the hybrid td04 may suffer from boost creep at high boost and then taper off in the higher rpm depending on how well your hybrid td04 is built and your boost controller's ability, you maybe able to get it to work however, i'd suggest you follow ramses advice, as he has ran a lot of those/similar turbos on the past and recorded the data

great video boss

could you please elaborate and/or provide some proof of this? thanks

from all i've read and seen (even on 4e/5efte set up) the COP seems great once done properly....just as stu said however, i've also seen that the stock ignition system will do a pretty good job for the average car owner with the typical mods up to about 300/350bhp....just make sure that all your ignition wiring, components and connections are in top condition some of the problems people have are related to the "aged" ignition components the cars have on, some of them over 20 years old....so an ignition refresh could yield wonders

the oem/genuine stock clutch has been used to run some relatively powerful cars in the past,,,however, people usually combined it with an uprated pressure plate this was to improve dirvability without going to an all out race/performance set up once you are not abusing it constantly it will hold up for a while if you have the money, its better to get a proper clutch set up to match your needs, plus the prices have become more affordable nowadays

and they make a very good and reasonably price coilover

http://www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_lsd_menu.html some trd part numbers and car models that you can cross reference