gorganl2000

always thought those were standard in every ep80/90 series...wasn't aware the n/a chassis didn't have these guess its a pretty easy fix if someone with a n/a wanted to install a rear strut brace though....just get them welded on

great...thanks gainzy....just wanted to make sure....i always like to be prepared before i start a task

thanks idrees...its a ep91....so will fit

anyone have any pictures or is there a dyi on fitting the oem 3 point rear strut brace? are the nuts/holes for the bolts at the bottom point already on the ep82/ep91 chassis or do you have to add these yourself? do you just remove the carpet and everything is already in place? just asking to see of they are any surprises before the installation process begins....best to be prepared as i didn't get a chance to look and wont before weekend thanks for any help

thanks goldenvtr we had to try vmware player

interesting thing that the string alignment i remember years ago i took my ep91 to be aligned with all the fancy equipment...on the drive home i was not particularly impressed by the job done...i'm not sure if the equipment needed calibrating, if the person didnt know how to use the equipment properly or a combination.... so i took it to my mechanic who uses the string technique....it drove perfectly since then that's all that has been used anytime any changes are needed.

i'd suggest the emu if you plan to go the piggyback route...just an all round better product than the emb for a few dollars more

yeah seems 32bit operating system....was just hoping there was a "fix" by now for the later windows 7/8 systems

gtstu do you or any one else know if emu is compatible with windows 8 now?...seems it was a communication problem in the past may have to start a new tread

my ep91 was originally auto for about 1-2 days after i bought it....took it directly to the mechanic for a manual conversion when i got home actually i bought the entire manual conversion set up before i even bought the car....lol the auto is not bad,,,but if you prefer a lot of spirited driving, tracking, dragging, etc. then maybe a manual box may take the torture a bit better i simply just prefer a manual regardless with the auto box i've seen an older member make about 200bhp...his ttgt name slips my mind now you may need a proper transmission oil cooler and some good transmission

what exactly did you use/do?

not to confuse you further...but i'd make one suggestion don't get the emb....just get the emu one time, along with the fields harness-----make it plug and play the emu is just a much better unit over the emb

check the float in the tank and/or the wiring to it the float maybe stuck/broken

from your list above i see no method to properly tune ignition and fuel---piggyback, standalone,,not even an adjustable fpr when using the fcd, its usually paired with an adjustable fpr...its an old crude way, but has worked in the past a fcd by itself will mess with the oem map as it alters signals to the ecu....can lead to a blown engine pretty fast

do u at least have an adjustable fpr?

vf28 or vf35 seems to be around the td05 range, but much more linear in terms of drivability PS now realise how old this tread is lol

3M tape works great for this typw of stuff....its the proper stuff that the good bodywork shop use cheap two sided tapes will release very qucikly

http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/1404-upgrading-standard-top-mount-with-rx7-top-mount/ not sure if that's any help,,,its quite a bit old now

lol...wow thats a fair amount on a vf22 i realise that sometimes theory and reality are not always the same. i guess that's how the starlet 4e/5e forums started out too....when making 150/160bhp was a major achievement on a stock engine...lolol some guys put a stock tdo5 16g on a rally subaru at the last minute because the original turbo on the car blew right before the start of the rally. they were just hoping it would make the first special stage before they retired....but it made the whole rally...and that's with antilag and all the stock td05 is a strong unit

@ daniel g----some of those subaru owners have been running some decent boost through those BB turbos,,,seen some cases of 1.4-1.7bar and they seem to hold pretty well....not sure if doing it over a long period would cause terminal damage though @ phil --- is there a real difference between the vf35 and vf34 on our 4e/5e?

i know someone who has a greddy 18g/5e and another person who has gt28rs/5e....from what i was told, the gt28rs come on a bit earlier, but the greddy 18g has a bit more top end. i've not driven in either car funny enough, some of the reading i did indicated the gt28rs is similar to the vf35/vf34 power and response wise...topping out around 350/360bhp

guess you really need to be revving to around 8500rpm to get the most out of the bigger 18/20g that's an additional cost for proper valve springs or even custom work if other options are chosen....again driving the overall project price further up

id go emu and a tune to suit your set up try the sales section may get an emu, boost sensor and with a plug and play harness so you dont have to do any cutting-----at a reasonable price

yeah true, but on our engines its a hard call with a 18g/20g unless you really plan to rev high i'm more tempted by the upgraded td05 16gs.....even the 18g maybe a bit of a far stretch, but still worth investigating nonetheless

thanks boss. think i saw your name pop up in one of the searches what brand turbo was it if i may ask or custom job?