gorganl2000

yeah phil...i suppose it takes a bit of setting up to get the base map close to where a person wants it and may even take some further tweeking depending on the conditions. i agree that with practice and patience a seasoned driver can do its all with foot control and "feeling"....but no doubt LC has its place in this world of technology, where teams leave nothing to chance---WRC for example

i've seen the emu launch control work pretty decent for what it is....i suspect it would be adequate for the "average" car once set up properly if i remember correctly, i think hybrid/konrad ran it on his glanza very successfully at drags in the past >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TmSArDDGXM >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4ODN4wxraU

i'm sure you will get a lot of different opinions...but i'd recommend a quality organic clutch (trd sports disc) and an uprated pressure plate (TRD pressure plate)

i think the members have given you some great advice front strut brace - oem will do rear strut brace---just about any will do, but if you can find a 3 point one then get it rear ARB---i have the ultra racing RARB, works quite fine and no drilling/welding required...i think whiteline requires drilling/welding....really helps with making the back of the car feel more sure front lower arm bar --- i had this on before, felt a bit more sturdy at the front end, but i took it off as it was catching like speed humps and stuff....but would probably be great on a track good tires a

yeah...i find the whole brake caliper system can do with a good dis-assembly and grease up ever so often, especially during the rainy season and i suspect in climates with snow/sludge and salt spray it is even more important and putting a bit behind the pads themselves generally helps too--as you have been told

trd helical....install and just drive....not sure if you still get them new though just have to do routine gearbox oil changes as normally required

http://www.2gnt.com/documents/teklein_Wideband_Shootout.pdf that's an old test you can look at the results...may be useful though a bit dated now that's what i read before i bought my innovate ages ago

innovate for me....proper kit with no issues some of my friends use aem and no problems as well

from memory...and a very distant memory i think they drop the glanza about 25-30mm....the front sits a bit lower than the rear they dont go as low as many of the other brands however, i found them rather comfortable for everyday usage without having to worry about the car bottoming out if you want your car scraping the ground car show low....then the TRD springs are not for you

i can confirm the ep91 automatic radiator has a "cooler" built into it...there are two small pipes at the bottom of the radiator to attach the two hoses from the transmission i cant say for sure...but i suspect its just a small canister in the bottom of the radiator to allow the transmission fluid to be cooled by the circulating coolant in the radiator. how effective it is i have no idea

i'd suggest meister coil-overs as well

yeah that's what i've been told a while back too

you can just cut the muffler pipe after the down pipe and extend it ---that's an option or you could extend the down pipe itself

i'd recommend speedvision.cps from USA....they normally ship fast and the injectors are cleaned/tested http://www.speedvisioncps.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10&zenid=37b666056d5c9c0905c7b2fe7c6968ff

i drove an ep70 with a 2e engine and 1e 4 speed gear box it moved off fast...accelerated nicely....BUT then seemed to run out of puff very fast in 4th gear and felt flat at higher rpm....like it was straining was a blast to drive up to around 140km....lol maybe some of these boxes have different ratios and final drives??....so it maybe hard to compare

aren't trd coilovers suppose to be on the hard side and for track use? like the others said, i'd recommend meisters for daily use....very comfortable and quality service before and after sales

i was about to say that it may just be the dyno....some places have low reading while others seem to have high on our local dyno i suspect you wouldn't make much over 170/180whp using a tdo4 at 1.2/1.5bar...on race gas maybe add on another 20/30whp when you say laggy,,,,is this on the dyno or on the road?? what rpm does it spool at and what rpm is full boost at?

just get some cheap ngk bkr8e copper plugs....very cheap and work great remember to gap them accordingly to your set up,,, you can save that money you would spend for the more expensive platinum and iridium

thanks for the clarification colin and morgey

i've been doing some image/sales researching based on your "ribbed vs smooth" gear selector casing strangely i can't find any conclusive evidence to support it at first i figured the smooth was ep91 box and ribbed was ep82 box then i found sales/images which claim otherwise...so i'm lost again

so true chris it seems people often concentrate on afr and forget about detonation to me they go hand in hand....both need to be monitored and set up correctly for the tune

i've expereinced d2s in a starlet and it was not a pleasant ride at all....very very harsh i've also driven meister on a starlet, and they are by far a great improvement, even on a daily ride

hey boss...i made an electronic DIY detcan using listen up....will try to write it up for you later on...made a few mods....it works perfectly i'd post some pics, BUT not sure if its only for paid members as i'm not one http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/89360-det-cans/ take a look at that link...it has the two sites i used to make my diy electronic detcans before i put the mic in the stud ring, i made sure to put a little epoxy around the outer/side casing of the mic ----NOT in front the mic itself.....i THEN made sure to push the mic completely down to the bottom of the stud ring--

hey shaun my buddy has an orc clutch kit...they say its a lightened flywheel, but to me the whole set up felt pretty heavy compared to stock set up by any chance did you weigh both complete units?

lol you have a point not sure if it would affect suspension geometry though....would need to be done pretty accurately are there like dummy holes/impressions on the n/a rear shock towers that could help give an idea where to drill?