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gorganl2000

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Everything posted by gorganl2000

  1. thanks, well seems like my timer is busted, so i'll have to find one first
  2. seems my timer box is not working it had 3 wires black---most likely a ground red red/white the red and red/white are most likely constant (positive) and ignition/accessory (positive) http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/61530-optional-extra-ignition-barrel-light/?hl=%2Bignition+%2Bbarrel+%2Blight exactly like in that pic, except no white plug/connectors on the end,...its just the 3 wires
  3. old post, but did you ever find out how to wire this up?
  4. once it reads correctly, just about any gauge will do the job
  5. i'll check on the other site and see if there's any progress/issues as well
  6. genuine SARD unit i strongly recommend never had any trouble with mine---about 5 years now got it from rhdjapan
  7. thanks. keep us posted as i'm interested in how it works out i'd like to get one if it proves to do what it claims
  8. any update on how the blue box is working now?
  9. from the pictures, isn't it 1.3 seconds?
  10. seen distill/battery water used with no issues kind of strange your experiences
  11. i run turbosmart eboost 2 on my ep91, which i guess is the advanced unit over the eboost street i can tell you that my eboost 2 works great and no problems whatsoever over the years i dont know specially about eboost street, but hopefully it will work similar to the eboost 2
  12. let me state this upfront...i am not a tuner, so all risks are at you as you have no other replies, i will try to help with what little i know however, me and a buddy fiddled with this on emu a while back with some 360cc injectors from what i can tell you, its just a matter of trial and error when setting the lag time and before/after injector sizing basically, you try to get the car to be around 14.7 afr on idle when the car is at operating temperature as it seems to make tuning the rest of the injector map a bit easier http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Fuel
  13. its just a guide, as the turbo rotation generally needs tweaking to match the specific set up once you have the turbo in a state where both the compressor and turbine side are able to rotate, then its best to place it on the car and make the final adjustments before tightening/clipping everything up
  14. lol, that's pretty low, must have been a little sluggish when moving off by any chance is your car modified? because some old school guys retarded timing to fight detonation when they had no piggyback/standalone to properly adjust timing sometimes people set it without bridging the te1 e1, making it hard to set the timing correctly
  15. just to be clear, a new or 2nd hand tps will need to be set up if you dont want to set up one, your best bet is to buy a 2nd throttle body WITH the same sensor as yours and install it-----assuming the tps on it is already set up and working properly...this is a lot of hassle it would be easier to just get what you have reset/recalibrated as mikey4410 stated, its not that hard to do if you have the tools and its probably the cheaper option
  16. its very strange that your jet kept clogging maybe your lines/tank/pump/kit needed cleaning out...was it a new kit when you installed it? i know the usual period maintenance is needed with any system, but the meth/water injection kits i've seen people use seem to run very well (once tuned for) and no excessive clogging issues---aquamist and aem, i can't comment on other kits
  17. a new sensor would need setting up once you more the tps in any way it will need resetting as the clearances are marginal ---- as you can see from the ttgt guide with 20 thou and 28 thou feeler gauges
  18. yeah, they are just pretty lights useless for tuning you need a proper wide band sensor/kit if you want to do it properly
  19. i know my glanza (previously and automatic which was converted to manual) has a 4 wire tps and i had to end up using another guide i found on the internet is your tps 3 wire or 4 wire?
  20. lol, yes ttgt to the world i'm not much into brand name, i'm into reliability and good quality stuff on the high end sometimes you can end up paying for a "name" while on the low end you can sometimes end up suffering from poor quality but it doesn't mean that everything expensive is good and everything cheaper is bad this is kind of a never ending debate, some people will swear by popular brands, some people will take a chance with cheaper stuff everyone will have to do their research and weight the risks, then make their own decision
  21. no problem yeah, it can be at home. i've done it long time ago i know pictures go a long way in helping hope you get it sorted
  22. coincidentally, i know someone who runs 30+psi on 5efhe rods for drag racing...i'd have to check the rev limit used, but i suspect not much beyond stock however, i'd not do it, but it seems it can be done for what the op wants, i think forged rods are the best bet i cant speak for the rods in question, but if they handle 33psi and 1.6psi/8000rpm, it seems they can take some pressure/revs how long have you guys been running these rods?
  23. can't you try to remove the brown rubber bung/plug at the back and resoldier/reconnect the wire to the attaching pin?
  24. i'll also add, i used to buy expensive iridium and platinum plugs nowadays i buy the cheaper ngk copper plugs of the appropriate grade, i've not noticed any drop in performance or economy
  25. these standard boxes can take much more power as said above , your synchro is probably on its way out
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