gorganl2000

looks like a very good job daniel_g

i'd assume he means the gt2860rs...disco potato which seems very popular

thanks bean now first off, this set up is on a 1998 ep91 glanza automatic which was converted to manual,,, i dont know if the other ep91 years (1996, 1997, 1999) and/or the auto ep82 has the same exact plug and/or harness/ecu wiring...my car was originally an automatic with ECT (electronic controlled transmission i think it meant)...i know my ecu has 3 plugs i have heard that the 1994/1995 ep82 automatic with round lights had a 3 plug ecu as well??!?!?...but i'm not sure if they had ECT and the same ecu/wiring as the glanza/ep91 the older model ep82s had 2 plugs ecus from what i remember again, it would be best to compare the ecu wiring diagrams as posted on this site,,,just to make sure regardless of whichever model you have...safety first always now from what i was told/learned the two wires going from the reverse switch to the harness/loom turn on the rear reverse lights, the reverse "beeper" in the car and the reverse dash light ® when you select reverse gear on the manual shifter/gearbox.....we soldered metal pins on the two reverse switch wires to allow them to be pushed/locked into the automatic wiring loom/harness plug in the engine bay.....this plug used to be connected to the ECT which was removed from the car the fuse is solely there to allow the car to start...i think its tricks the ecu somehow...it acts as a bridge for the two pins it connects.....a piece of wire would have done the same job or some people prefer to solder/connect the two actual wires on the harness itself or closer to the ecu i strictly opt never to touch my harness if i can avoid it----i've seen/heard some horror stories over the years with persons with electrical issues due to botched wiring hopefully this helps other members/users my recommendation is that you double check and triple check everything (wiring, ecu pinouts, diagrams, etc)...if you are not sure, take it to an electrician,,,as all risks are at you otherwise

i sent them bean

i'd suggest one of you guys just notify sasha/wepr about this issue so he can correct it on the jig for future productions sasha is a helpful guy...and i'm sure its something he would do to make his clients happy

bean...pm me your email address so i can send them to you also one of you can post them on here for the entire forum

the copper plugs handle high boost...way more than 1 bar i have seen ngk bkr7e and bkr8e used in excess 1 bar and up to 20/22psi without any problems in 4e/5e engines save some money...just get copper next time in a different car, i've seen them handle 2+ bar with meth and race gas

email sent

i have some pics i could email you with the plug i used in the engine bay--connected to the reverse switch....you can post them here afterwards if they are what you need i dont know how to load pics on the site (or any site for that matter)

if n/a....i'd stick with the emb....relatively cheap and should do all you want but in all honesty...i dont think you will see much gains even with a piggyback

i dont own one ...but i know a friend who should have one at hand

seems greddy is popular with ep82/91 because over the years members have gotten good results and more importantly reliability using emu/emb they have been used on street, track/strip, circuit on the gts/glanzas for the average build 4e/5e, emanage ultimate is usually enough to get the job done----tune fuel and ignition, datalog, raise rev limit, "launch control/step limiter", run auxiliary items using separate map, etc now if you are building a dedicated monster and/or have access to reasonable tuners and well priced standalones----then staondalone systems start to look more and more attractive

not certain why you haven't...but i hit limiter in my ep91...think i need to check the clocks when i do to confirm....maybe over the weekend when/if i drive the car (tropical island, but we do get rain lol)

the extension harness will really make it pnp and tidy ....saves a ton of hassle when needed to be removed and keeps your original loom intact (no cutting or splicing) hence no potential electrical issues later on

is there a different stock rev limit for the ep82 vs the ep91? i've heard people say 7600 for ep91 in the past....but i've never really checked...as the rev counter seem to indicate the ep91 limits at the same 7200 rpm based on the red markings

i'd also suggest the emu with pnp harness

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/98430-turbo-choice/ take a look at that chart... dyno numbers are not really a good comparison by themselves is there any more information on the set up?...as those numbers sounds rather high based on what i've seen over the years thanks

maybe that's the reason we see so many vids of supposedly "1000whp or high powered" machines getting whipped on the track/circuit/strip but much lesser powered cars

just a cautionary note here for members, especially those who are not so familiar with dynos and see members projects and dyno results be very careful in comparing dyno numbers...it's really not that simple, they are a lot of variables to consider including the dyno settings, tuners/tuning equipment ability, pump gas quality in different areas, climate, etc...even if assuming relatively similar builds we have a very wide cross section of people on this forum from very different regions....please don't take dyno numbers as the gospel....they will vary significantly across regions and even within the same area in different tuning shops....so one member's 200whp maybe another member's 250whp with the same or very similar set up.....this is how a lot of confusion starts i'd give a few examples...i quickly searched the leader board and see td05/vf35/gt28 can make about 300-360bhp and some td04/td04 hybrids making 250-310bhp on average using pump gas.......... while sometimes other members struggle to make 300bhp and 250bhp respectively with the same turbos using similar set ups where i'm from a td05/gt28rs/vf35/30/28/34 (sized turbo) will net you around 225-250whp on pump gas/meth mix or race gas (maybe around 180-200whp on straight pump gas)........td04/td04 hybrid will net you around 185-210whp on pump/meth or race gas (maybe 160-180whp on straight pump).........because the dyno reportedly reads low, very hot climate, our pump gas quality is reportedly not the best (low octane), etc..... Please...i'm not saying this to discredit anyone's build/results....i'm just trying to help members keep things in perspective and be open minded this is why i thought Adamb made a very good point earlier regarding not to get caught up with the numbers

i know back in the day some guys used to purposely disconnect the 02 sensor in order to run more fuel when they put on bigger turbos.....this method was even more crude than the fpr/fcd system i suspect the stock ecu goes in to some kind of "safe mode" when the 02 sensor is not detected and over fuels to protect the engine

100% agreed wrt the copper plugs

a bit dated my post, but nonetheless, a few years back i was driving home and all of a sudden my ep91 felt sluggish and when i checked the "waste of money, cheap, Christmas tree, pretty light" afr guage i realised it was stuck in the "green/rich"....i pulled over, and checked the engine bay to see my 02 sensor wire broken. drove home with the car feeling sluggish and smelling somewhat of petrol. i reconnected the 02 sensor wire and immediately the car felt better....iirc i was running a JAM ecu at the time PS--those cheap afr guages are a waste, but it did seem to indicate the car was running very rich and helped me narrow my search...however, shortly after, i purchased a proper wideband afr system

i've done a lot of research on vf and td turbos over the years now....seems 1.5bar is the "recommended" max on the vf35 However,,,and caution is advised here...a few sub owners have ran 1.6 - 1.7 bar ...i suppose it will only spike there and bleed back off...maybe give that little extra torque/hp in the mid range i'm not too sure if there will be a difference in the impact of 1.6/1.7 bar on a turbo (vf35 or any other) on a 2000cc vs a 4e/5e i always figured absolute boost pressure is boost pressure regardless ....however, maybe on a bigger engine (2000cc sub in this case) the turbo is being worked harder at the same relative boost pressures on a 4e/5e???...i dont know....maybe someone here with that type of knowledge could chime in

i must say, that's great advice again such a common mistake though

hey bean, it that 227hp the Wheel HP.....converted to 303Brake HP? was this on a 4wd dyno or did you run the system disconnected? i think i recall you posting the other graph a long time ago...but i could be wrong lol