WallaceGlanza

Well it's been a bit of one step forward two steps back with the glanza recently. After fitting the defi gauges ages ago a small oil leak had started, I correctly assumed it was from the oil temperature sensor and when I set about fixing it I made it much worse! I managed to fix the leak from the sensor but as soon as I started the car up again to recheck it another leak started from the filter housing. By this time it was late in the day so I had to leave it for then, the next weekend I tried to fix the leak and only succeded in makig it much worse.... Driving the car to work the next week I lost 3 litres of oil in as many days before worrying I had killed my second engine, thankfully I got a new seal for the oil filter housing from toyota and fixed the leak for good, 3rd time lucky eh.... Other recent problems include the clutch slipping becoming much worse, the exhaust now leaking badly from the flexi and subsequently losing power and sounding like an angry vtak over 4.5k. The other problem - the brakes, I set about sorting this weekend by fitting new rear discs and pads; The horrible and rusty old setup: The the nice and shiny new setup on: Then together with a sneaky peak of the Ray's back on the car: To further help improve the brakes I als fitted a Cusco BMCS recently, however its not fitted quite right yet as I'm needing the spacer which fits onto the engine mount bolt to fit it properly: However with that lot fitted I'm happy to say there is already a noticeable improvement in the brakes,the bmcs has added extra pedal feel and I'm sure will improve further when tightened properly. One of the rear pads was seized too, so once the new set are bedded and bled it should make a difference. Finally I've also added a C pillar bar to further stiffen the chassis: I can't say I've noticed a huge difference from it but as tesco says, every little helps.....

Both wrong - There's one screw on the back. (Yes I'm being pedantic, sooper if you want to replace it you take off the whole plastic bit not just the sticky part) You need to take the grill off to get at it though, which is easiest with the bumper off.

Any news on this yet mate?

They are spam bots and it is being dealt with. Try to ignore them for now until its sorted, its not just this forum that's being affected either.

No you don't need a bigger flap. Mark the flap with tipex then close it to show how much you can take away with it still sealing fully and simply stay within that line when porting.

0.8bar until you get a decent manifold.

I'd say only 3k tbh, especially with what looks like a damaged bonnet? To be blunt mods don't add to the value and there's nothing exceptional there either.

Good choice mate and very cheap imo. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

He's gone for the new and original username of Gt-dan. http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showuser=2566

Best place is straight from toyota, you can find all the part no.s here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_J_1997_TOYO...91-AGMQY_1.html

Well its definately a paddle clutch and has lots of life left.

Pfft wait till my white wheels go back on. However I wouldn't change yours mate as they do like very nice the way they are.

Mine handles pretty damn good. After fitting the coilovers did you actually get the alignment checked?

I can understand the points Garbla and Asad are making but in my eyes its a simple fact of first come first served, nothing to do with sneaky pm's or anything. If I want something that's for sale I will always pm the person first, I might not even make a post in the thread as why should I? I don't need everyong else seeing what I'm buying. Its not good if the seller promises the item to somebody then sells it to someone else or sells it for more than he/she was asking for it but thats not what's happening in the cases above, as Jay said money talks (and I say that from a buyers and sellers viewpoint), if you want something say so, don't just ask if the item is available - tell the seller you'll have it if it is.

I just recieved a pm from the member "mignulikz" as I think many others have - its spam, don't click on the link as it maybe a virus.

I was being serious!

No.

First thing is to disconnect the king lead from the distributer and the efi fuse so there's no fuel and no spark. You are also supposed to do it with a warm engine. Then you remove the spark plug from the first cylinder, screw in the tester then with the throttle fully open crank over the engine on the starter until the gauge stops reading any higher (maybe 5secs of cranking) then take the reading remove the tester and refit the first spark plug then move onto the second cylinder. Repeat it for all 4 cylinders and compare the readings, they should be all be roughly the same and in the range of 150-180psi on a healthy engine.

You can buy a compression tester from halfords for less than £20 then all you need to be able to do is remove your spark plugs as thats where the tester go's.

This is for future reference as well as helping you LarQ..... A little oil coming out of the dump valve is normal, if its an excessive amount then it could be due to the turbo seals having gone or the piston rings being excessively worn. With the dump valve in the standard position the oil will come out there if either of these are gone but you would normally notice blue smoke from the exhaust too due to the oil burning through it. If a breather filter is put on the rocker you can rule out which it is (if either), if the oil stops coming out of the dump valve and just comes out the breather filter then the rings may be worn, if the oil still comes out of the dump valve but not the breather then its pretty much conclusive that the turbo seals are gone.

Nope, its actually the idle control valve he's talking about. If you unplug the electrical plug going into it you'll notice the revs drop slightly and the ticking will stop. If you have an excessive amount of oil coming out ofthe breather then unfortunately your piston rings may be badly worn best to do a compression test to check the health of the engine.

Unfortunately the only way to find out which spline count yours has is to count them!

Your not going to hit fuel cut at 7psi and the solution to hitting fuel cut is not to just throw on an fcd! Looks like the turbo maybe getting restricted for some reason,is it getting oil ok the feed isnt blocked or anything? There's no sounds of a leak or anything? It sounds very strange if it just stps whilst boosting.

Yes they're, its based on the Blitz Nurspec. It won't be mega loud, depends what you want.

A screamer pipe is basically a direct exhaust from the wastegate of the turbo. With an internal wastegate setup - as on the stock ct9 turbo, this invloves a dual exit or separated downpipe which at one side joins to the exhaust like normal from the turbo exhaust housing and at the wastegate side has a short open pipe which vents to atmosphere thus making the "screaming" noise when the wastegate opens. A separator plate is needed in the turbo between the wastegate and turbine exhaust wheel to stop the exhaust gases simply leaking straight out of the screamer pipe. People's opinions differ on how a screamer pipe sounds on the stock ct9 but most agree they sound good on larger turbos and especially with an external wastegate setup.