WallaceGlanza

I agree with the lady above, if its factory fitted its not a modification and doesn't need declared. Otherwise everyone with new bmw's or whatever would have to sit and declare every little optional extra they ticked in the brochure.

Its not showing you're running lean its showing your getting close to the fuel cut, with your mods and the colder weather the boost will be creeping up a little bit. First mod should be a boost gauge to see exactly what boost your running.

Just because the wheel is an inch more in diameter doesn't mean its any wider, 16 inch wheels generally start at 7 inch width. I had 205's on my 15inch rays but I'm gonna put 195's on them this time as I'll get more tire onto the ground and their 7 inches wide. My girlfriends mini has 165 tires on 7 inch wide wheels that are 13 inch diameter.

Yeah it was ,its the fact the exhaust hanger bracket was right in the way, I had to grind a bit of that out of the way to get the bolt through, but as you say totally worth it. Also I said its not a spider web, its not that messy. Cheers mate, definately a bit too much of both!

I was saying what the price was brand new from toyota to give him an idea, not what I'd expect him to sell it for. I was joking when I said between £60 and £200, giving the two extremes in my eyes.

I received my parts from the whiteline gb courtesy of Dave B and thought I'd waste no time in getting my rear arb fitted, I opted for the non-adjustable model as I'm doubtful I'd make full use of the adjustable one. It should have been easy to fit but having a crap drill hindered me and finding the exhaust hanger bracket right where I wanted to drill through the chassis made it even worse and quite a pain in the arse, however its now fitted... Is it worth it, simply yes. This is probably the best handling mod I've done to the car, it gives you much more feel through the corners and you can really feel the back end helping the car round the corner rather than just hopping about. It gives a strange illusion of a lack of speed through the corners as the car is so settled compared to normal, it really was what my car had been missing in the handling department. Onto the bling, after fitting my gauges the car had been refusing to start a few times, I thought the battery was dying but upon closer inspection it was just the terminal clamp being loose and ince it was seized solid a new one was needed. So I thought I may aswell add an earting kit at the same time from groundingkits.co.uk since this also replaces the clamp and doesn't look like a spider web under the bonnet... If you're really bored you can try and spot all five earth cables in this picture :

Thats good, but might be a lesson to you to make sure everythings declared to save any worry if (touch wood) something like this ever happens again. My insurers have got 2 sides of A4 with all my mods. Going round a roundabout the wrong way is nothing compared to how they actually drive in china!

Lol, also 60 would be silly cheap! They're £150 new without the scoop and the scoop is another £50, both unpainted. So somewhere between £60 and £200.

With our type of coilovers the whole threaded shock will turn when using the top ring to adjust so yes when you turn that up on ours the car will become higher but with the trd ones only the locking ring will turn and compress the spring thus lowering the car. The threaded shock bit doesnt rotate on the trd's hence the lack of a bottom locking ring as you said,all you can do is compress the spring more or less to change the height and stiffness as one. All the lower ring on the cusco's does is lock the body of the shock so it can't turn, you don't use it to adjust the height but it needs to be loose so the shock will turn, then tightened up again so the shock can't turn whilst driving. It makes sense with the trd's because when you lower the car you compress the spring thus making the handling stiffer the lower you go and when raisng the opposite is true. Dave you can try and find out, as long as the rings turn freely its easy to do and a bit of trial and error to get the height you want anyway.

Sunds right but as Rob said TRD coilovers aren't the same, they only adjust the height by compressing the spring therefore increasing the preload and stiffness. So yours will look like that, all you do is slacken off the bottom silver ring which is the locking one, then wind up the top silver ring which will compress the spring and lower the car, then tighten up the bottom ring again till it locks against the top one. The ride will become a fair bit harsher though, so its a compromise between lowered height and ride quality with them unfortunately.

You need a c spanner to adjust them and no doubt a lot of wd40 to loosen them but yes you do them on the car, I tried to adjust the height of my cusco coilovers yesterday but their seized and I ran out of wd40, they've only been on the car a year or so too. So it can be a big pain in the arse but is relatively simple. Anyway, here's mine: It depends on your coilovers on whether they have seperate height and spring pre load adjustment ie stiffness, my cusco's above do which means the height can change but stiffness will be the same. So to adjust the height you slacken off the big bottom ring using the c spanner then twist the top blue ring down to turn the whole damper section and lower the height, then simply tighten up the bottom ring again once suitably lowered. Its best to measure the thread from bottom ring to middle ring so you get the same height on both sides after adjusting too, and so you can see how much you've adjusted them by.

Ok, it just looked like one that used to be fully forged and owned by a mike. What turbo is it running just now, doesnt look like a ct9 manifold?

Yes, but it obviously won't go off between gear changes, just when off the throttle.

I boutgh my samce hoses from that ebay seller and I'd recommend him. Also I think the colant hoses for na and turbo ep's are the same. Gary (EP91STARLET) has a set of samco coolant hoses on his, they look the same as mine.

Strange, I'd put another one on because its there to act as a lock nut.

Yeah, thats how it is at both sides and how it show's it on fig 3 of the instructions which is the one that relates to this type of installation.

Yeah your right about the bushes and the saucers were also the wrog way, but I think this is right now:

My arb's literally just arrived and I've been playing about working out where the bits go: Although in that picture the big hole on the bracket is facing the chassis but I think it should be that the big hole goes to the drop link for the arb as it goes down at a slight angle in the fitted pictures but the small hole wouldn't allow that.

How are you adjusting it? Do you just mean where the hole's are drilled to mount it to the chassis?

It shouldn't make any difference the ep82 won't weigh anything more at the back I doubt, at the front its maybe slightly heavier but still wouldn't make much difference. I'll be disappointed if the koni's have started leaking because I was thinking about getting a set instead of my cusco coilovers, how was the ride on them before this?

I think the ssqv use a diaphragm rather than a spring so is non-adjustable.

Loos nice and clean. Did you buy this off a guy called mike down south?

With the car sat push up and down at the back and if the car keeps bouncing the shocks are gone, plus if the ride is bad it points at the shocks not doing their job. How old are the springs and what make? If their fairly new they may have just settled and dropped a little more than when first fitted.

Yup, spot on.

Your telling me,the person had fish for tea too, it f*ckin stank I was almost sick myself with the smell.