Keri-WMS

Er....... might be a idea to take it to a garage? Failing that - there should be two or three small (M6) threaded holes in the disc, these are so you can jack the disc off the hub (good thinking toyota!). Just grease them and wind bolts in, tightening them a bit at a time, alternating with giving the disc a "tap" with a large hammer. Keep upping the torque on the bolts and the size of the "tap" and in the end the disc will jump off the hub.

Drum brakes are more effective than rear discs...but the discs won't overheat. Most cars have to shift the bias to the rear if they have discs instead of drums. BUT...if you HAD drums but changed to discs you'll get a shift to the front as a result, which is what you want if you've got more grip (bigger/stickier tyres). The one I would really avoid is fitting drums to a disc-rear car (luckily no-one wants to), as you'll have waaaay too much rear bias and will be sideways into every corner!

Drums are normally the most torque you'll get for a given size (as the friction is all nearly at the outside diameter which in effect gives you a longer "lever") and as many drums are self-energising (which uses the rotation of the drum to increase the force on the shoe for "free", similar to how a servo creates extra line pressure using the "free" manifold vaccum). In fact if drums didn't overheat so easily they would probably have remained the best bet for the front too - but they do overheat hence the disc brake. Sort version - drums give you the most power for a one-off event like

Return them and get the right ones? Far cheaper than anything else - don't take 5mm off the carriers for sure!!!

Seconded - those discs are too big for the carriers....

Thinking about this.......NOTHING getting stuck in terms of pads/discs/piston/caliper carrier/spring clips will leave residual pressure in the line once you are off the pedal. It can ONLY be an issue with the caliper/brake line join, brake line, brake line/metal brake line join, metal brake line, other hyraulics, or brake pedal. I'd bet on a pinched/failed brake rubber hose, or a damaged metal brake line, or crap stuck in a pipe somewhere.

Could be a duff wheel bearing that's causing the heat - or allowing the wheel/disc/hub to move enough to rub the pads and create the heat? Unlikely but another thing to check.

Something very wrong with / or object stuck stuck in / the ABS unit? I would have said internally collapsed brake line but you say you have a new one....

I can modify the 254mm diameter / 55mm bore WMS 110% discs so they come with 54mm rings fitted (assuming the 54mm GT caliper takes the same disc dimensions as the EP91 does) - adds £35.00+vat/pr making them £100+vat/pr. Any help? :-) Can do grooved and (probably) pads etc too.

Hi Callum, sorry to hear you've got a leak! We do indeed, I'll drop you a PM now. Cheers, Keri

16" wheels can normally take our 295mm kit - here's the template that can be used to double check. 295x26 kit PDF We don't CURRENTLY have alloy bells/rotors in production, but are still planning to do them soon - and might be able to get you on a prototype set if you're 100% desperate for them! I'll drop you a PM with more info, for reference all our prices and details / photos of the kits are in the link below in my sig.

Thanks guys! I'm back doing the odd afternoon again now.

Just a heads-up for everyone as I'm part-timing for a while as kiddie #2 arrived a few days ago - as it was a C-section I'm at home controling kiddie #1 for the time being!!! I'll try to get on the PC and reply to emails when I get the chance.

Those are small voids in the casting - the place that made them should have used a thicker casting to make sure the surface is fully skimmed off. Should be safe to use but not very nice to look at!

My understanding is that once brake fluid has boiled it needs changing because it can retain gas bubbles, and it will also boil in future at a lower temperature (!!) and that it is also APPARENTLY more compressable even excluding the bubbles! So a full flush is a good idea if you've ever boiled your brakes.

The "new unit" is an exchange service, so if you don't send them an old caliper it adds £50 surcharge each (so £179.99 per caliper in effect).

Nothing yet, sorry guys! :-/

Second hand they should still have been fine - were the discs glazed / old rust or anything? We do have rebuild kits (seals and o-rings) which are used when refreshing the calipers, we've never sold any of these to TD though. I would suspect a plumbing / specification (funny master cylinder or bias valve for instance, or something to do with the parts on a rear drum/EP95 car) / servo / damaged lines problem, or contaminated pads. Things like noise or taking up more space under wheels, rusty bleeders etc etc can happen as we know, but brake power should never be an issue with a cor

What we need is a bolt on KERS system for light braking. :-)

If my iffy memory serves I think Zoe's already got grooved discs?

A few people have said that the DS2500s are quieter than the EBC Yellows for what it's worth. Not sure how EBC Reds stack against EBC Yellows...

There's a nice public road in Germany where you'll need our brakes for sure - it's in Nurburg.....

Squeal in race brakes (not just ours!) is a direct trade off against some of the performance aspects of the design, for two reasons: 1 - to allow things (pads) to get very hot, and expand a lot without anything sticking, there are larger gaps where the parts touch. This reduces the damping effect. 2 - The pads are normally higher coeficient of friction, this in iteslf means they are more likely to squeal (4 pot or not). Things that CAN help: - Different pads - Grooving the discs (puts gaps in the energy going into the pad and can help break up the resonance) - Damping the pad

Fair enough, lots of people post in this braking (brake system) forum asking for parts thinking it's a breaking (cars being fragged for spares) section! :-)

Breaking or braking?