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Take the cover off and check the connections inside, while your at it get a multimeter and put it across the terminals and test to see if you getting any voltage on the light its self, there should be just the one fuse for it.

I am trying to convert the piping on my current FMIC which was custom built to fit a CT9 to now go onto my TD04 turbo. Now i should be able to make it fit with a load of messing around, but my question is to do with how much silicone piping i can put in. I need to fill a gap of about 15cms, do you reckon it will be ok to use a silicone pipe for this, i reckon it will be fine but thought i would check and another thing, when im ordering piping from Viper hoses, do i measure the outside diameter of the metal pipes there going onto or the internal to get the right sizes?

but on another note, 98db IS LOUD! some of the tracks i goto impose 95db limits or you cant go on and thats a track!

I would just take it to court, the worst that can happen is a fine but more to the point you can contest these limits hes pulling out of the air, the Db limit is set by the stock exhuast for each car, this 72db for a 2wd and 84 for a four wheel drive is complete shit, as like you said each car is different dependent on the engine size, why the hell does the drive train make any difference to the exhuast noise limits, sounds like complete bullcrap to me, i have just done a quick google on this subject and noticed this area is a bloody mine field. It doesnt seem like there is any straight legislation on it, its the stock exhuast system Db by the looks of things or like you said the MOT station. I would get the data from Japan on the Db limit on the car of the production line first. If he took it to court he would have to state under what legislation he is pulling these figures from, he cant just state them in his report, ask him to state EXACTLY the leigislation hes quoting, this should be put in writing before the court case so you can research it, if you feel you cant argue it then just plead guilty, if its the other way fight your case. I have been to court a few times for car offences and won both times, so dont be put off by them bullying you! The court system actually works in your favour as well as theirs and they DO get it wrong some times.

You need to buy a compression tester, you can get one from halfords for about £30 or cheaper on the net, you basically remove all your spark plugs, screw the tester in the spark plug hole, then crank the engine over (take the king lead out) for about 10 secs, then the guage will give you a reading, 150psi is the minimum your looking for, anything higher indicates towards a better condition engine. If you look on my build http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....showtopic=32969 you can see the section on compression testing. quote name='neilsmith' date='Apr 9 2011, 05:04 PM' post='541837'] Alright mate glad to hear all is well with your engine. How do you pressure test the engine as i would like to pressure test mine. Cheers

nightspirt got his to 730kg i believe with a roll cage in which weighed about 50-60kg in its self, so you can actually get sub 700's if your that mental

Oh my god i shit a brick this morning when i seen those results, its all in now All i got to do is wait for my new civic radiator to turn up in the week and she will be back on the road for the first time since Trax!! Get in!!!

FALSE ALARM, THANK HOLY FU*K Warmed it up to normal temps and its sorted its self out and some how i have got an unbelievable 190 psi across all 4 cylinders, which is 5psi a cylinder more than my old one Oh Yeahhh!!!!

Yeah i got a rad hose now so just need to hook up the exhuast and fix an oil leak on the braided line for the turbo and i can start it. GtBitz turns out are actually quite helpful!, really didnt expect this response to my email, which basically said i wasnt happy the engine rings on 1 and 2 were so low and i wanted some kind of reimbursement to repair GTBitz email below ----------------------------------- Hi Craig, Sorry to hear about that but we only offer a 3 month (parts only) warranty if we had fitted the engine. I can confirm, and you can see from the amount of wear on the engine that it is a low mileage engine. Our warranty to you is on the start up. This engine will start up and run without any knocks, bangs and any sort of excess smoke. Please remember that this is a used engine which is nearly 15 years old and if you are saying that the piston rings are a bit worn, then I have to take your word for it and would like to help you out only as a goodwill gesture. However, you have to remember that we have sold you this engine with good faith and done you a deal on it. These are second hand engines mate so you can really expect them to be as good as new!!! Here you have 2 choices: 1) Send us the engine back and we refund you the money. 2) If you are willing to do the job yourself, then we will give you some money back towards the piston rings. That way you have got an engine with brand new piston rings which will hopefully last you longer than any other used engine. Please let me know what you think and we take it from there.

So i have finally put all the car back together today and before i went to start it, i thought it would be prudent to compression test it as it was the first opportunity i have had to do this since buying it from GT BitZ with the starter motor now hooked up. The readings i got from it were 1. 100psi 2. 100psi 3. 153psi 4. 160psi putting a small amount of oil in 1 and 2 resolved the compression issues and then it shot up to about 200 Now i havent tested it with a warm engine yet which i know can make a difference as the metal rings will expand causing more compression, but surely not to the extent it would remedy 50psi on 1 and 2! I am so pissed off right now its unreal, the engine comes with a 3 month warrenty but what garages ever actually honour that, plus i have modified the crap out of it now so thats not an option. Like i said then will a warm engine make that much difference, i cant do it right now as i need a new top rad hose

A short pipe to the bottom of the fuel rail, hmmm i went and looked and couldnt see where, has someone got a random pic of the fuel rail and draw on a mark on it so i know where to look. Cars in my garage so i cant sleep till i know its in lol.

Got a pipe i have noticed that i cant figure out where it goes, its a thin (must be vacume) pipe which connects to the first runner of the intake manifold, it points straight up. Where does it go or with all the redundant stuff i have been binning does it need capping off? Also the sensor which is directly on the back of the engine, between starter motor and alternator, it has a plug, which sensor is this? although this may seem ridiculous, i cant find the bloody plug that plugs into it, i could swear it was a white/light grey plug, where the bloody hell is it on the loom, i have checked everywhere and i cant find it, pullin my hair out here!

If you look up wikidpedia it will tell you about the TD04 range, a bog standard TD04 off a Scoobie WRX is whats in mine, then you get the slightly larger version of the turbo which is what the TD04L is, basically its L for larger compressor. Just remember the bigger the turbo you get the more lag your gonna get, i think the standard CT9 starts to spool at around 2800rpm and the TD04 will be about 3600rpm im told I think a TD04L would be ideal for your starlet

Lol i cant believe how much stuff im throwing out of my engine bay ha ha, but again thank you, nearly there now

Ok so now thats done, i have got this sensor on the left side of the bay, which was plugged into 1 and 2 i believe, can this be taken off completly, or do i need to blank the plugs up on it as its plugged into the loom. Its the sensor which is got a rusty metal bracket directly above the brake servo. Next i have noticed a sensor which has two plugs sticking straight up, it sits to the left of the cam cover as shown below, where do these go, or again do they get blocked up? and finally, with my RRFPR, it has 3 connections, does the top one go onto the intake manifold as shown below, its the only spare pipe, the connection on the right side of the RRFPR goes to the fuel rail adapter and the bottom one on the RRFPR goes to the rail with the long pipe. I think thats right, let me know

Thanks Sparky!!

I'll tell you one thing about ownership of starlets is that out of all the cars i have ever owned, i have never known a group of people who take their engines out so often! lol Im on my 3rd time already!! Hope you get it all back together soon

Sorted, Bonza!

NightSpirits blog is my hero at the minute Every time im working on it, I have made a thing that I cant finish on it until i walk away with somthing that i have either cut out or unbolted thats not needed lol. I think im gonna pull out the dash and see what i end up with lol

where do the two pipes which come out of the steering rack go onto the inlet manifold? 5, 6 snd 7 anyone? ahhhhhhh no brakes!!!!!! lol

Well i have binned the carbon canister the other day, i just need to block the pipe up now i was told as it was from the aircon that right? Here is my bay before i put the engine in, see any pipes in there which are relevant

I have made a tit of marking my pipes up on my engine bay and want to ensure im plugging the right ones in! I have marked 8 pipes on the intake manifold which i assume are all vacume pipes, could you let me know which one goes onto these, are any of these now redundant since i have taken the aircon completly out now including those two sensors above the ingnition coil pack. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. If you can fill in the blanks for me that would be sweet

I'll have a play around and let you know what i come up with

The tanks vary in price from what i have seen so far, i reckon i could make one up for about £80-£120 ish depending on what size one you needed. That would be for a polished alloy one with your own fuel pump cut in and fitted. I have got a speed boat too and this evening its given me an idea, i might mimick the fuel storage system design from what they do at sea, i prefer it to the use of a ridgid can like the one shown, they use a thick plastic container like below, not to mention it weighs about 500grams http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Genuine-Yamaha-Outbo...=item4cf6257dd8 Great thing with this is that god forbid you did have a crash, even if this got unmounted and slung around the cabin, it wouldnt crack or break.

I am going to fabricate my own lightweight fuel tank, based on NightSpirits design below Its not much of a complicated design, i just need to find a alloy box that will allow the fuel pump to sit nicely in it and touch near the bottom to suck maximum fuel. I need to know what adapter fittings are required to extend the fuel lines from the stock tank. Should make a massive weight saving doing this, the tank weighs about 1KG and the standard steel one about 10kg. Once i have perfected the design i might start making them to order, seems no one does it for any of the starlet clubs and i think it would be a good addition for people who want to track their cars with ultimate weight loss ;) What you think?