Chris Green

Here is a video of the ITB's working! More info in my build thread.

UPDATES I'll let the photos and videos do the talking! EDIT: Video didn't work, I'll youtube it!

Why did the coppers have your locking wheel nut key?

The costa is Jay's place!

Awesome sleeper GLWTS!

If sent via Royal Mail it's the same as anywhere else in the U.K. if that helps. Only if sent by courier the price is higher.

Are the rear lights £15.00 inc postage or plus postage dude?

Just a heads up dude, a Cruise gear knob from RHD Japan is £32.00 delivered

Will have a look into different setups for the PCV value. You rekon it won't run right due to the MAP sensor? Is there any way to get around this?

Look tidy dude, nice work.

Flip that gasket was in some shape! Gald you got it sorted though. I need my alignment done badly too. The car looks at home on the track dude!

If you have an adjustable FPR you can set it yourself using a 10 & 12mm spanner.

I may well do this then, it may well be the best option for trying to run it with the standard ECU. I think the standard 4e MAP sensor has a pulse reducer in it. I should realistically only need lines for, the servo, MAP sensor & FPR. The two lines from the PAS rack will be blanked, same with the coolant lines and PCV valve vented to the catch can.

If have been doing a bit of resreach on this, I seen a few things online where people are only taking one feed from one stub and other taken an even feed across all four. Do you reckon it would be better to take across all four? I was initially only going to take one, but opted for two, a seperate for the servo.

I got the new top mount fitted, 40mins with mate trying to get the nut off, borrowed an impact wrench and it was off in a matter of seconds. The manifold/stubs are way to be faced today to ensure a good seal against the head, due to possible warping during the welding process. Made some plans for the ITB's - going to get two vacuum ports welded on to stubs 1 & 4. Meaning the brake servo is running of a seperate port rather than through the vacuum manifold. The other one will run the vacuum manifold, in turn running FPR & sensors and various auxcilery hoses. PCV Valve - Planning on drilling this out to open it up. Running the following set up PCV->Catch Can->Atmosphere What are people opinion on the the above set of concerning the PCV Valve?

No worries man! In all fairness it would probably be easier for me to pop in an envolpe for all the size of it.

Restore it back to is former glory! SR's are getting rare!

I use to live by Autoglym relgiously, but I'm using AutoBrite direct stuff at the momement. Cherry Glaze is awesome, would highly recommend.

They sell some nice parts for tidying up the bay, reasonably priced too. I think I have a standard NGK sperator if that's any use to you or these bad boys look cool - Click

Nice photos, looking tidy dude!

TTT

I went to my local motor factors, £11 quid for the wheel cylinder and £23 for 4 brake shoes. Not an expensive job. If your wanting to tidy the rear drums up, I used an angle grinder with a sanding disc and a couple of coats of paint.

Fecking nightmare that was, 40mins with two of us trying to get the bugger loosened, 4 secs with an impact wrench.

The blue one isn't bad - not keen on the overall idea though - bit Max Power scene

Pop-ups are the way forward! IMO the Celica headlights are too long & curvey to suit the MR2