AdamB

Isn't 12 the highest? I'm sure 12 means off? Would be best to get it setup by a tuner tbh mate, or it could end up in disaster.

Ah okay mate. You will most likely have gained a missfire at the top end because advancing the timing brings up bottom end power and you lose power at the top end. Now you have set the timing back you would have gained back that top end power and will most likely just be a weak ignition system letting you down. Check below for a guide on how the cams should be alligned http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?84076-Camshafts-Removal-amp-Installation http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?28144-lining-up-cams&highlight=lining+cams

Yeah the pedal, reseviour, slave cylinder.

Do you mean the driveshaft seals? Their the only seals on the gearbox as the rest is enclosed and should be sealed with silicone sealant.

Yes same. The 4EFE and 4EFTE use exactly the same head.

Gearbox Shifter Cables You could also swap out the radiator as the auto rad has an oil cooler inside for the gearbox which won't be needed anymore.

How many degrees out was it? Advanced or retarded? Have you checked the cam timing as well to make sure that all lines up ok?

Has it ever been setup by a tuner? If not I would get it done very soon.

What clutch kit was it mate? Not really heard of a brand new release bearing being a duff one before, they are all normally pretty sound. Depending how much gearbox oil has leaked that may be more of a serious issue.

Just buy a headgasket kit, comes with everything you need.

Nor do they have projected headlamps. Its still an MOT failure though.

Try bleeding it first mate

Whats your setup mate? Seems a little high for WOT.

Anytime mate

Pm you mate But the jist is the 5E has a high compression ratio standard and considered too high by many for a turbo motor, so the -10cc pistons will reduce the ratio a fair bit to help with knock control. Personally on the 4E the stock ratio is too low at 8.2:1 so with the -10cc pistons this will make it undriveable on the road, although will be ok for drag racing. You'll need to run a thinner headgasket like the TRD 0.6mm and have the head skimmed to bring the ratio back up Sure is mate! For the mrs actually

That front end looks proper mean!

If the grade is too cold, the tip wouldn't provide sufficient spark voltage to ignite the mixture, hence run rich etc. If your running 400bhp on cold plugs, I would guess and say you've switched from the dizzy setup to atleast wasted spark where the coil has a longer dwell period providing greater spark voltage, so even at cruise there will be plenty of voltage to ignite the mixture. You need to go colder because the extra fuel injected creates more heat and increases cylinder pressures, running a grade 6 plug at 400bhp will most likely drop the tip off the plug and make a mess of your pistons and cylinders. CDI ignition doesn't have such problems, but expect to be changing your plugs every 3000 miles as they don't last long.

TRD 0.6mm gasket and ARP headbolts. Although OEM headbolts will do just fine

You'll notice a big increase with an fmic!

You'd prob get missfires, poor fuel economy, run rich etc. Your grade is too cold for your setup, even heat range 7's are good till like 350bhp I'd say. You could run either 6's or 7's, but 6's would need replaced more often.

You'll only be helping to kill the planet, but don't worry, theres enough car enthusiasts that do the same so your not alone Not much oil will come out, it will just be vapour.

To be honest the mods you have done you won't really feel the extra power, you would have probs gained like 10-15bhp at the top end. Which you probably won't feel through your ass sat on the seat lol. You don't really gain much unless you increase the boost pressure really. Have you done a full service? Replaced ignition components, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, fluids? They would be the basics before modding.

Yep certainly will be unless you put it back on the manifold? I'm sure aftermarket inlets have a fitting for the servo?

I've heard that clutch type LSD's should be rebuilt every race season, so your probably looking at like 3000 miles including practises, qualifiying and race day. For road use its probably more like 20k miles, but if the diff is second hand you don't know how its been treated or how long its been used for.

Yeah hence why people run catch cans because it contaminates the fuel as well and reduces its knock characteristics If you cable tie it out the way or something, am sure no questions will be asked at MOT time, providing it still passes the emissions.