AdamB

Cruise/Zep gasket, depending on if the head has been skimmed before or how much gets taken off then 1.2mm-1.4mm will suffice.

0.6 lambda is extremely rich! Surprised it even runs. That's about an AFR of 8 ish. That's like Ethanol AFR's.

Check the pre-load as it's a clutch type diff, other than that, good to go.

Helix, Blitz, Orc...

That's the issue, peak cylinder pressures and temperatures. Because the 4E is so low on compression there's no need for cold spark plugs.

Common issue on some clutches.

What's the spark plug gap? Grade 6 will be fine for 1 bar boost, no issue. But he's running 1.3 bar, I assume it's on a programmable ecu? Heat range 7 will be best.

Check the distributor cap itself.

Love that torque curve Harry! Great thing those 5E's. What's your CR at now?

Can you get a video up?

Did you re-use the headbolts? Or are they new ARP's? I just checked the installation instructions for 4E/5E head bolts, it doesn't mention anything about re-checking the torque so I might have got confused with something else there, my apologies.

What head bolts did you use? Did you re-check the torque after like 50 miles?

Haven't you only just replaced the headgasket?

I'd take the top pulley cover off, and get a little closer to try identify where its coming from.

Sounds good mate, I'll keep an eye on this as it'll be interesting to find out more. I'm surprised no one has come up with castor increase adjustable top mounts for these chassis!

Is there any modifications to the damper assembly? Or have they literally just drilled 4 new holes and remounted the top mount?

They are non-interference, but depends if the head has been skimmed before. Where abouts is the knocking noise coming from? I can only assume that it might well be a idler bearing/tensioner issue.

5E has an 87mm stroke, 4E has 77.4mm stroke. Has above though, measure the deck height from the centre of the crankshaft pulley bolt, to the block deck, off the top of my head I think it's 212mm or 215mm.

It is kinda related to the oil level, not enough oil means lack of oil pressure and hence light can come on. How low did you run it on oil? I think the light comes on at approx 7psi of pressure, which is too late and damage has already been done.

IAT or Map sensor possibly. Spark plugs possibly wrong grade now it's getting colder, maybe worth going a grade hotter.

I'd probably change them every 25k, or every 2 services. I change my Iridiums every 25k just to keep things fresh. Inexpensive service item that gets changed regularly rules out any problems in the future Here's a little piece of tech info. Spark plugs, common item and often overlooked. http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/technical-information/heat-range-explanation

Their 7's mate, the grade is in the part number. 8's are way too cold for a td04, wouldn't start using 8's till like 400bhp or running exotic fuels. Or as Stu suggested, run the copper core plugs, but they need changing more frequently.

bkr7eix

Ah ok, miss-read your first post mate my bad. Have you got a pic of the rail you have?

You can remove the buckle if you wish to keep the OEM seatbelt (have to dismantle half the OEM seat), just get a longer bolt, it's a very tight squeeze though with a harness buckle plus the OEM seatbelt clip with the handbrake plastic in the way. Like I mentioned in the other thread though, I wouldn't recommend using a harness on any OEM reclining seat. Your life though.