AdamB

Love the running commentary LOL!

^^^ Fuck that lol. That view would be enough to make me sick, just knowing your basically in space.

Real men use Garrett Its hard to judge what spool time will be like as it varies too much, things like compression ratio, cams, piston size, air temp, what ecu you run, the tune etc. Id say at a guess 1 bar @ 3000rpm.

Should do

Isn't the TRD mechanical a clutch type rather than Helical? Could be worn plates or incorrect torque load setting. Edit: The mechanical is a plate/clutch type LSD http://www.rhdjapan.com/trd-mechanical-lsd-limited-slip-differential-corolla-levin-trueno-starlet-vitz-18994

Start the gap at 1.1mm mate, if it gets worse then knock it down to 1mm and so on.

Was it missing before you replaced these parts? Or was it missing as bad as it is now? Were the plugs gapped? Is there any water/residue down the spark plug holes? Spray the holes out with some WD40. I would check the condition of the cap and rotor arm, if they seem to be ok then maybe do a compression test. A missfire can also be related to low compression.

Will vary between engines mate, check here: http://www.s314kba.co.uk/leaderboard/ A few running td04's, plus what do you mean by healthy? A healthy engine is one that runs under the correct conditions, power means nothing.

Should just say its a 1.3 5 stroke engine

Take it to a tuner unless you have a wideband and det cans, and drive off boost until its setup.

It's not so much the power, its the torque thats the problem. Most *5's I've seen run the 4E engine which as we know doesn't put out as much torque as a 5E. Have a guess and say about 350-370ft/lbs, seems stock glanza boxes strip gears a little lower than this torque. As shorty said its the viscous coupling thats the problem, maybe try and get a billet one made? I'm sure TRD used to make *5 LSD diffs, but trying to find one would really be like finding rocking horse shit.

Anyone got any good brands for the steel ones?

A pedal box is the way forward ;) Problem is with having adjustable brake bias, you would forever be changing it depending on conditions, dry, wet, track etc. Also I'm sure WMS don't have dust seals.

Ment more in terms of balance

Don't believe you can adjust camber at the bottom mate, unless you have camber bolts, they only give you max 1.5 degrees anyway which can be done on the top mount if required.

I think 6 pots are a bit too big for a car that weights like 900kg.

Winner

You'll have to open the box up, remove the gears along with the synchro's and replace the one required, or just replace them all while your at it. A lot of gearbox pictures look daunting, but as long as you have a large enough area and lay all the bits you remove down in sequence it's not as bad as it looks ;)

Can I ask why you've gone for an oil cooler? I wouldn't add an extra 1.5 litres of oil. Fill the sump up with the correct amount of oil then on first start up crank it a few times to get the oil around. Too much oil will cause high pressure, will likely blow the crank seals and will also create a lot of drag on the crank reducing your power.

Middlehurst Motorsport built the RB28 and is mapped by Abbey Motorsport. Your right it does need the D-Jetro model PFC, although it is more expensive to buy than the L-Jetro model but I think thats the difference, when you already have a programmable ecu, you can sell it, make some of your money back and put it towards something else. I think if we were able to pick up PFC's for the price Matt got his for, and the rough price of the PFC's for other markets then yeah it's a viable option no matter how old the ecu is. I'm not too familier with the PFC's for starlets so i'm not sure, but when people like Matt are near on 300%+ running over stock power, the likes of the stock ignition system, stock wiring (which at best is 13 years old) can't cope with the demand. As far as I'm aware the PFC (starlet fitment) can't run individual coils, also being a plug & play you are guarenteeing on the stock wiring still being upto the job. Also most of us will want to run multiple maps, which also as far as I'm aware the starlet fitment PFC cannot do. There may well be a whole host of features that a lot of us won't use on a new aftermarket ecu. Theres nothing wrong with wanting to run a street map, then running a race map with anti lag, launch control, nitrous control, increased boost pressure when we go to track days or drag events or whatever you intend on using the car for. So in fact a few features that you find on a new aftermarket ecu will actually be used, not very often but atleast the option is there to.

Whats your tuning garage called then lad? What cars have you mapped? What engines have you built? The simple fact is, you don't even know the car yet your trying to blame it on something else. The ecu isn't able to run without airflow metres, causing the turbo stall and making it have poor power delivery... THATS IT. Your right, they may well work the same as they did 50 years ago, but plain and simple, the technology used to control these components is far more advanced than it was 10 or 50 years ago. The software used to calibrate these components is also far better than it used to be. You also said it yourself, the components of today are "more efficient", well if they are more efficient, your going to get a better map, more power, more torque, wider powerband etc etc etc. For most people it's not even worth paying the £500 for an EMU when you can pick up a DTA or Omex, stretch your budget slightly and you can get a haltech sprint for around the same money, granted it has to be wired in and mapped at a higher cost, if your competent enough you can wire it yourself, its far from hard if you already have a loom brought from the manfuacturer, but still has more features, has a better resolution, better scaling, more load points, it goes on and on. Why would people pay £1000 for a PFC which lets face it, is older than the EMU, has never been updated unlike the EMU. To me the PFC is a "basic standalone" it comes with very little features, very little options, no updates. It does the job i'll agree with that, but then it will do the same job as a standlone of half the cost. Agree to disagree I think, everyone has their own money and their own opinion, recommendation is the only thing you, I or anyone else can give.

Said it all right there tbh. I've spent probably around 20 hours searching, reading, and looking information as to what ecu to buy and i'm still none the wiser, but I do know for a fact it will be a new ecu such as link, haltech, motec etc. My dad runs a PFC on his 600whp skyline, and yeah fair enough, they do the job, a basic job at that, and in fairness the car doesn't run very well, its very lump, the turbo's start to stall when coming on boost and power delivery is pretty poor. The PFC is ancient, hasn't been updated since it was released, and the only use I can think of for it now is to run a food blender. Why would you buy 21st century engine components, turbo's, injectors, coils etc and run it on which is probably the most important factor, an engine management system which was created over a decade ago? Everyones personal opinion but just adding my 2 cents worth.

Hmm it could be either the master or slave cylinder, although I have known it to be more commonly the slave cylinder to give a "lack of pedal feel" I'm sure you can pick these up for around £30 second hand. Bit of a ballache if it is the flywheel as you have only just had the gearbox off. How was the flywheel when you replaced the clutch?

Have you checked to ensure the clutch pedal is at the right height as this can affect the way you feel it... http://www.toyotagtt...st clutch pedal When changing the clutch I would expect the clutch pedal to be adjusted to suit a new biting point. Also did you replace the release bearing?

If its direct plug into the EMU then all you will need to do is mount it, run a vac hose from the inlet mani to the map sensor, and ensure that the map sensor is plugged into the ecu