AdamB

Golf Mk5 gti 5 dr? Although their supposed to be quite a boring drive.

How much do you want to spend? Larger exhaust valves 3/5 angle valve seats

Go to the person who you want to map it and get their experience and their opinion.

Up she goes

Yeah it's correct mate, the manual I got here is for an EP82 Auto I believe so will likely differ between all models and years to be honest, regarding the wire colours but the pin out still remains the same

Ok so there's 4 wires reading from left to right on the plug with clip at the top: NE : White/Blue G1: Orange/Blue G2 : Blue/Green G- : Blue/Yellow NE = Ground G1 = Trigger G2 = Rev Counter signal G- = +12v Hope that helps

Not off the top of my head mate, I'll see if I can dig out a wiring diagram for it and get back to you 😊

Yep use the stock VR sensor in the dizzy

Sounds good to me! Gonna have to wait till I get paid though, hope there's still some spaces, but hopefully there will be since it's a little while away yet

Up

Whats the specs on those cams?

Both as unreliable as each other really. Subaru's can be had for next to nothing these days, plus their newer. Don't like the seats in them but that is just a minor thing. The power delivery is very smooth on the Subaru's like people above have said that they are boring etc, but a smooth power delivery doesn't mean a car is slow. Depending on your driving style they do love to drink fuel. Repair costs can be astronomical, but that's why they are so cheap to buy. Best to go drive a couple and see what you think and how it compares, your money at the end of the day and no one can tell you what car to buy.

£1000, sorry updated the first post. I just want it gone now to fund my coilovers and setup and that's about what it's going to cost for some track spec coilovers and setup. If it doesn't go I'll just have to wait to buy the coilovers but I wass hoping to be back on track beginning of June. Certainly is, I've seen used td04/5 kits go for more money!

Price drop! I've seen some coilovers I want so price dropped to cover the cost of coilovers.

Ah shame it's probably a week or two too early for me Car will be getting setup for track around end of May/ beginning of June.

As Phil said, some will probably fit without needing machined no bother, however some will need to be adjusted.

Use the largest thickness, then get them machined on a lathe to get the correct valve clearances. I've got a set of 16 sat here doing nothing if you're interested.

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Have you had the sump off since it's been ran in? Who built the motor? I would agree with Devon, try changing the sensor as its the easiest to replace first.

There's no such thing as "The best", what suits one may not suit another. Heat range 6 will be fine, although can change to 7 if you want. Some iridiums have been known to drop the electrodes, coppers are fine just replace them more often.

What ecu are you running? Can you not log sensor data?

A clutch type LSD will last a full race season before its recommended to be rebuilt. The OS Giken ones last the best and will do about 2 race seasons, not sure if they do them for Starlets though, might be worth a check but they are expensive. That's with circuit racing by the way so a lot harsher conditions than 1/4 mile drag racing. For little mileage I would always recommend a clutch type, however for a fit and forget diff that requires no special oils or running in then helical is best. Providing you can pay the little bit more for the gearbox oil every year, their worth having. There's no reason why a clutch LSD won't last 25 000 miles, possibly even more as long as the oil is changed at the recommended times.

How many miles you actually do will really dictate whether you can justify the cost of a clutch type LSD.

Best thing I did was break my Starlet and sell all the bits, bank balance has kept me very happy indeed. As good as Starlets are, ploughing money into a car that's at least 16 years old and knowing how much you've put into it is disgusting lol.

110 is a little high for cruising. It's not a temp I would be worried about though, these modern race oils don't start to break down and to turn sludge till around 125-130 degrees. I'm sure Oilman will probably be able to explain better. The oil ways and the water jacket are next to each other in effect. Whats your water temp like? I assume you've been changing the oil filter on a regular basis?