AdamB

Man speaks the truth, wouldn't use anything else. The length of time K&N have been around and the probable millions/billions they spent in R&D speaks for itself.

The new style PEC rods don't need the block to be notched and Pauter don't need it either.

Conduit is good but don't buy the coloured stuff, ie blue or red as it fades and goes white with the heat in the engine bay, just stick to black.

That's fair enough, but I would be looking at specific websites like efi101 etc that are specific to engine management systems and their programming rather than asking on a generic vehicle enthusiast website.

Go to a tuner who maps AEM. Don't listen to anyone on here, or anywhere else for that matter (no disrespect to those that actually do know what they are talking about), every engine is different and no one single person can give you an answer. There's a hell of a lot more to mapping than just pumping in some digits and getting a result, problem solving is key for mapping.

No idea on the prices mate, but I guess Toyota would probably be more expensive. If you do go for aftermarket springs though, do make sure they come with all the specs with them otherwise they are useless.

The engines not under load if the car is in neutral I would speak to whoever built the engine and ask them what their recommended break in procedure would be to void any warranties if given. I wrote a running in procedure a little while back, have a search for it

Should do mate, and again you can replace the droplink bushes with powerflex ones as well.

Had the same problem with mine, chucked it in the bin.

King and Clevite bearings are what pretty much everyone uses over the pond in America of United States

Remote start alarms aren't thatcham approved as well by the way, there's only one alarm which is approved which has remote start (can't think of what it's called of the top of my head)

Depends how far you wanna go with the rebuild. Looking to replace synchro's, and bearings then will likely be around the £400 area. Start replacing gears and you'll soon be looking at £700+.

Just replace them with powerflex or similar. Believe you can still get the bushes but will cost a lot to get imported.

pm'd

Yes worth changing, to check they need to be checked using a spring tester which measures their spring rate ie how many kg to compress 1mm, or as you have problem seen for suspension springs kg/mm, kg/inch etc. If your sticking with the stock rev limit, probably best to just purchase some new ones from Toyota, going with stiff springs saps power from the engine because the cam needs to put more force in to compress the spring to get max lift.

The 5E journals are actually wider, rather than diameter mate.

My mistake was thinking the same as Colin with the big ends rather than mains! Not all conrods have that pilot hole in them to splash up under the piston/pin. In a few race engines from what I was told by a chief designer at Cosworth they use the pressure under the piston to feed the bearings, this is going back like 25 years so I thought by now we would have moved onto this method as it reduces losses in the engine and makes use of that air escaping past the pistons rings! Was clearly wrong.

Explain that? Have you removed a crank before? Have you ever had to disconnect the crank from any oil gallery or direct feed from the oil pump? The cranks I've removed all sit on the main bearings and rotate freely, the crank is drilled with an oil passage through it, but there is no direct oil feed to that passage.

All you need is a turbo that's operating in its efficiency area, don't need any other trick shit that's just a waste of money.

Possibly pointing that way and certainly not to rule out,.

Well there's the possibility it wasn't built back up correctly then with the oil clearances being too tight.

The problem is no matter which way you look at it and whatever you do to the cylinder head, the valve is still going to be the same size. One of the first things I do when looking at designing engine components is look at the valve sizes, if their not suitable for the goal I want to achieve then it's the first thing that gets changed.

Get the injectors flow tested mate, give you an idea but more of an oil supply issue to me. Could have blocked the feed hole but that could have been noted on strip down.

It's called marketing and sales men making people believe that their product must be the best because it has HKS written on it. Another thing is that foam is dirt cheap and can be formed into any shape you want very easily and quickly. Probably costs them like 10p and sell it to people for £100+ making huge profits. I know a lot of race teams use either ITG or K&N filters, those including F1 engine suppliers.

Oil generally isn't fed mate, oil is only fed to the top end. The crank whips up the oil and splatters it everywhere to lubricate, and oil moisture is used to lubricate the piston pin. There are specific oil passages drilled through the crank which again makes use of oil being in the sump to lubricate the bearings.