AdamB

As thin as possible would be best. What engine management you going to be using?

Have you got a pic of the rods mate? It probably could be a cause.

Shame mate, last thing you want when splashing out that kinda money!

They are non-interference engines, but like I said, you don't know how the engine was built, it might well of had an excessive head skim, or running larger lift on the cams etc.

£170 mate, yeah they aren't cheap. Personally I would go with a 0.6mm or the Paseo 0.5mm headgasket, but like I say I don't know the clearances of the engine so I can't say whether your going to have valve-piston contact. Only thing I can say would be that their must have been a reason why it was built with a 2mm gasket in mind.

From that spec list it was using a 2mm cruise headgasket, this one here : http://www.rhdjapan.com/cruise-full-boost-metal-head-gasket-2-0mm-toyota-4e-5e.html Personally I wouldn't use a 2mm headgasket, but its hard to advise when you haven't built the engine and know the clearances.

Apparently the turbo was maxed out pal

1.4 bar I believe it was mate. Thought exactly the same thing. All a bunch of dyno queens

Maybe get in contact with who you bought it from and find out who built it? Dangerous way to be building engines that's for sure. I was assuming that it had been built correctly, that's why I always go by the quote " if you want something done properly, do it yourself" .

What engine management system you running?

Well considering the engine was bought ready to run it clearly wasn't built properly then.

Have you still got all the original colored body parts? Always had a soft spot for silver GT's, very hard to come by. GLWS mate

The reason is simple, many engines have now done in excess of 80k miles and the springs would have sagged and lost their tension, allowing the valve to bang against its seat, possibly destroying the seat or even worse dropping the valve head.

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It would be the route I would choose rather than lightening the crank. If I was to lighten the crank it I would just use a billet crank tbh. That's if the reasoning for knife edging was to reduce windage, if its for weight then I think its just silly and not needed, could potentially be more of a ballache than it's worth unless its a race car that your prepared to magnaflux the crank every so often. Phil do you know if Spuddy ran a knife edged crank? I'm sure it was stock but thought you would know better.

Not sure about the gearbox but it will just be the same as any other N/A turbo conversion will just be higher compression because the pistons are different in the JDM motors.

The oil pressure switch has no bearing on the engine what so ever, the only thing it does is activate the low oil pressure light on the dash once a preset pressure is reached by the sensor.

Personally if it was me I would use a vacuum pump or a dry sump kit to create a vacuum in the crankcase to help reduce engine parasitic losses, it only takes a small amount of crank whip or knock and it will have you replacing the crank.

The anti lift kit is actually a Castor correction kit. It counter acts the Kingpin Inclination since the strut HAS to be at an angle to the hub for packaging reasons ie brakes. The distance between the centreline of the wheel and the kingpin axis is called the "Scrub radius" which we want to be as close to 0 as possible especially in a front wheel drive car because it reduces torque steer. However for those that decide to put spacers on the hub because they are trying to fit wide wheels for stance, you actually increase the scrub radius since the wheel is being pushed further away and the distance between the centreline of the wheel and the kingpin axis gets greater and you will actually make the car handle worse, along with looking shit imo. The main reason for increasing castor is to reduce the adverse changes in camber, ie the positive camber which we don't want. Generally if there is 4 degrees of kingpin inclination then you would counteract that with 4 degrees of castor.

Not worth it in my opinion, it removes too much material and makes the crank considerably weaker. If you do get it done I would say to have the crank go through some heat treatment to bring its tensile strength back up.

Depends how you drive, won't last long at all if you slip the clutch all the time.

The relief valve just bleeds off excess pressure. It will be the pressure switch as YT said, its a common fault.

Did you remove the TPS? It may need setting up.

Should have got it then mate

Glad I could help you out buddy Looking good as always!