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AdamB

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Everything posted by AdamB

  1. The head is aluminum so very soft. Best thing to do would be to look to see how readily available the next size up stud would be. Either way will work though.
  2. Driving a sequential on the road is a ballbag lol.
  3. RallyDesign are a Wilwood dealer so probably your best bet, failing that Wallace uses Hi-Spec discs so might be worth firing him a pm to find out what specs he uses
  4. McPherson strut isn't exactly race pedigree either, the only real downside to the rear is that it doesn't occupy any negative camber, if it had 1 degree of negative camber it would be perfect, since beam axles don't allow any change of camber during cornering.
  5. As above just use the for sale and state your gauging interest.
  6. You can still get the TRD final drive with 4.7 ratio opposed to the stock 3.7. http://www.rhdjapan.com/trd-final-gear-set-starlet-ep82-ep91.html Will be a nightmare to drive on the road though. If its a stronger gearkit your after then TRD is no longer available, and the Zisco one is the only place to get one that's been ready designed.
  7. Are you willing to send the parts away? I don't know of anywhere around London but I know a couple of places in Oxfordshire that will do it.
  8. 82 will fit in a 91, but a 91 won't fit in an 82 as the roof is higher on the 91.
  9. You would likely max out 1000cc injectors around the 550-600bhp mark. I know Spuddy ran the ID2000's on his at 570bhp.
  10. No mate sorry, the one I do have on my 5E engine here has snapped off
  11. Sad to hear about all the problems you've had mate, but at least its all sorted now and you can enjoy her once again!
  12. This is looking immense Jord! Will look good when the front end has some lights in there. The end is in sight? (Probably not lol)
  13. It all depends on the fuel pressure you want to run, no lower than 2.2 bar and no higher than 4 bar is my preference. Go lower than 2.2 bar and you start having problems atomizing the fuel into the air, you will find that the fuel droplets just fall straight to the port floor. Higher than 4 bar it will become increasingly harder to control them, although you can go higher, some even up to 6 bar fuel pressure, it's just down to individual tuners preference.
  14. Bump plenty still here, grab yourself a xmas prezzie
  15. Torque is the most important figure you need to worry about. Providing the engine has been built correctly there's no reason why 3 bar of boost can't be achieved.
  16. Put a straight edge on the block deck and use a torch to shine at the bottom, if you can see light through the other side of the straight edge then get the block skimmed. Check at various different points and angles across the deck face.
  17. Depends where you take it to be done and how accurate you want it done/ their machine tolerancing. Its worth it for sure, even on a stock rebuild. It reduces the frictional losses in the engine gaining you a bit more power and a more stable engine. Think if the engine was out of balance by 2 grams say, how much extra the engine will have to work to overcome the friction in rotating the crank.
  18. I would look at cleaning the threads up and using a proper tap to jack up the threaded hole.
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