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AdamB

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Everything posted by AdamB

  1. Cusco with the rose joints at both ends
  2. ACL recommend the shells are changed every 30 thou KM to maintain a good condition crank, although I bet no one pays attention to that but for me I would certainly prefer pay 70 quid for some shells than risking losing a crank. It all depends on your power, oil clearances and oil your using as to how often they should be replaced, something like Spuddys motor the bearings are probably changed every few race meetings, probably talking 300 race miles. I don't think there is a guide but basically remove the crank pulley, remove the timing belt, and theres 10 x 10mm bolts I think they are that ho
  3. Your essentialoy building a race engine which requires maximum oil flow 100% of the time, especially within the first few miles. Were they ACL bearing shells you used? I would say the ACL are much softer than OEM Toyota since they are required to only last 25k miles, whereas OEM last 120k + miles. I think theres too many variables to state exactly what happened, which probably all contributed in some way shape or form. Learn from your mistakes though.
  4. Fair enough for having a go like, but as you found out to your cost, it needs to be done properly. I don't think it would have lasted because the block wasn't chemically cleaned and oil galleries cleared out, years worth of carbon build up and debris would have soon found its way circulating your fresh engine and would have destroyed the bearings, bores etc. It may well be even because of this that the bearing has spun because oil pressure would be low due to sludge build up blocking oilways, however thats me speculating.
  5. Owens will be able to sort you out, but I think you'll be better off buying an off the shelf item rather than getting yours custom done. Something like an MDX.
  6. Why didn't you choose to take the block out pal? Being brutally honest the engine wouldn't have lasted anyway in my eyes.
  7. Theres your problem then. I don't understand for the sake of £100 why people don't change the oil pump. Was it actually ever removed from the block? For a small amount you've made a costly mistake. Sorry to put it bluntly.
  8. Not necessarily, as it depends when it occurred, if it was at full throttle under heavy load when the engine is under its most stress chances are the rod will have blued. During light cruising or idle it would have very little effect on the rod itself, and you will no doubt find the big end journal is still perfectly within its circularity tolerance, remember its cheaper and easier to replace bearings than a rod. Why did you swap over oils so soon? Mineral oil should be used up until 1200-1500 miles before swapping. Did you build an engine without even checking the oil clearances? The
  9. It will let it run as lean as the engine will allow until knock is detected, only then will the ecu pull timing to save the engine, although this very rarely happens because the engines are such low compression anyway. The leaner the mixture the more torque you make (up to a point), so there's no need for the ecu to compensate for anything. That's my take on things anyway
  10. Their the same cams as 4EFE mate.
  11. Agree with this, I take it you've done a visual inspection of the rod to check that there actually was clearance issues between the rod and the cylinder by witness marks? What were your oil clearances and what oil were you using?
  12. It's hard to say exactly what the ecu will do in closed loop unless you were the code programmer
  13. Just start it and stop worrying lol.
  14. Don't worry mate, happened plenty of times before. Normally turning over at such low rpm doesn't create much pressure anyway. If you have oil coming out the oil feed for the turbo, then there's clearly oil pressure there. If you don't start it you may be waiting a while before you get a reading on a pressure gauge mate Do a search over on TGTT, has happened quite a few times, just need to be brave lol.
  15. Just start it up, providing you've checked the turbo oil feed to ensure it is getting an oil supply. The pressure light will go out straight away when started, seen it before on new builds ;)
  16. The best way is to do it by weight as the fuels volume changes with temperature.
  17. All bolts will stretch when they have a preload on them. Whether you can reuse them or not you will have to compare the lengths with ARP's tolerencing.
  18. Ah you got the enkei's? They were nice but I thought they needed to be a little wider. Appreciate the kind words mate, pretty damn gutted as I spent like 2 years collecting parts. Sure does at least this was never built though. Thats it mate, having so much together makes it such a heartache with sorting everything out and making decisions you don't wanna have to make, and this is one of them. I may come back but I doubt it will be a major project car (he says ) Ah no way Jay, sorry to hear about it at least you got a bit of luck though. If my dad didn't have a Skyline I would
  19. No probs mate, its obviously easier to buy as a pair so that's why its a little more. Let me know though Be around £35 mate I know mate, I'm pretty gutted tbh but have no real choice Not sure I will come back though, thinking of just sticking to pokey reliable daily drives for a bit as I'm going to get a house first before I take on another project. Will check now mate
  20. Cheers Phil Haha don't think its just cars in this case though mate I know JD have a pretty big place but I'm not sure when I will be able to get time to work on it or ever finish it, so now kinda feels like the right time to throw the towel in and move on.
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