AdamB

Haltech, Link, Omex, DTA are all good ecu's that will do what you want for not very much money. If you keep an eye on ebay you can also pick up Motec M4's pretty cheap, although you won't be able to run sequential ignition. I would always choose the best ecu you can afford, its the most important part of any build.

Will consider splitting now if I get a good offer on the turbo.

Makes no difference what the boost pressure is, can run 2 bar on that kinda setup no problem with the right turbo obviously. You said he needs the standard boost solenoid or an aftermarket controller, the actuator controls the boost pressure, doesn't need anything else, but if Jim wants to increase the pressure then a different method is needed as you can't adjust the stock actuator.

Yeah the actuators likely to be the reason it isn't reaching full boost, but the plumbing is correct is what am saying. Its the actuator that does the boost control.

What difference does that make? It does the same job.

Yes it will, it goes straight off the comp housing and into the actuator, I used the same setup although on a hks actuator, it just means you can get rid of all the solenoid and gubbins, makes the button useless on the dash but who wants low boost anyway?

P&p ecu's like stock fuel pressure, just put the oem fpr back on.

Yep

You won't need to worry about the hi/lo solenoid, the way you have it setup is fine it will just be in hight boost mode all the time. Will most likely be a weak actuator.

Mine sits just under half way. As above you'll need a new thermostat.

You can buy non ABS discs anyway, will just mean the sensor won't pick up the wheel speed

Yep I found this out the other day when using your card they charge you. I use my card as if I ever get in any shit I can claim back through Visa.

Yeah its LHD, must be a converted N/A. It looks sweet, the best thing to do is to relocate the fuse box.

My mistake, Tim's right with his numbers. I was using a method which I got taught at college, dunno why I was taught that way though lol. The Athena has a diameter of 75.5mm I believe and the Cometic is 76mm. I take it then the knock sensor is only there as a fail safe, for example when a fuel pump is failing or an injector is blown out? As its not there for show so I suspect its doing something.

The best thing to do is to retard the timing using det cans. Using higher octane fuel isnt possible as I would expect nothing less than 98/99 ron fuel anyway. Other solutions I would consider in your shoes is either rectify the piston problem by getting the crown machined to increase the chamber volume or run a water/ meth injection system.

You can do that now, but I expect the knock sensor to be working overtime.

This is the thing I don't know what combustion chamber volume their using, Im sure I've heard before the FHE which they have in the states is different cylinder heads, but whats different I dont know. Here it is again. CR = (CV+CCV) / CCV CR = (379.25cc + 1mm gasket + 38cc chamber volume) / (1+38) CR = 10.72:1 The gasket thickness doesn't change the CR a great deal. CR = (379.25 + 1.4+38)/ (1.4+38) CR= 10.62:1 I agree that these engines are low compression and could do with bumping up a bit, but I wouldn't like to go over 9:1 tbh.

Can I ask whos advice you took on buying those pistons in the first place? They caused Toff a fair bit of hassle but he was willing to get stuck in and work on the combustion chamber to lower the CR. I didn't even know Wiseco offered anything but 10cc dish until Toff bought some and I worked out his CR and that.

Motec M4's crop up on ebay quite often, DTA's are on there all the time, I believe TD have an S40 they are selling I see on their facebook the other day with a full loom. Shaun on here is also selling an S60 with a loom. I would be asking your tuner or local tuning companies what they like to map though as its down to the person with the laptop on how safe your engines going to be. That said DTA's are very easy to map. Or just send your pistons back and get ones with a dish lol.

£500ish. Like I say, the management system is more important than the engine, I would rather have a standalone than a forged engine for that kinda setup. It'll move alright, how well is another question and not something that can be answered until its done.

The only ignition you can set up is the base timing, and your not going to want to run round with it retarded by 4 or 5 degrees all the time as that will cost you a lot of power. You could use the stock ecu for running in with the correct AFR's but I wouldn't use it expecting to get power from it. No point spending on a good engine if it isn't going to be controlled properly, its the most important part. You can pick up Motec M4's, DTA S40's dirt cheap, same price as an EMU and they have much greater scope.

I think you'll be fine with that engine setup, but it will need a good management system to hold it up, or you'll just be losing power all the time as the knock sensor works overtime. I would even be tempted to use a td05 because it'll be more efficient.

Fair enough, why not! Whats the car used for? Just fast road use?

A 1.9mm gasket will give you a CR of 9.3:1. Can I ask why your bothering to spend all the money and effort to build a forged engine if your not going to look for a fair bit of power? If your going to stick to a td04, you'll be fine to run anything upto 1 bar on a high CR. Im sure Harry from Oz had trouble with his 5E running a 9:1 CR as he couldn't boost past 1 bar due to excessive knock, and that was using a very good standalone ecu, although im not sure what fuel they have over there.

Everyone from this forum thats why lol.