Sudden

Not yet @Richard currently running yamaha fj1100 carburettors and they are old. Experimenting with constant velocity slides for a wider torque curve. My compression is too high to be messing with these carbs much longer. Next step is to finish my new intake adapter for my 03 yamaha R6 itbs and go efi with megasquirt and the 5EFE dis coilpacks. Everything is inplace just need to weld the adapter up, and have the megasquirt wired... And swap in my fuel pump.... And run the efi fuel lines... Sigh

What Richard said. I'm running 4efe pistons and a usdm tercel oem metal headgasket and a skimmed head (2 thou) aswell... Not recommended unless running decent octane fuel.

I took the entire exhaust off my sera (4-2-1)cast header etc and installed it on my 4e. The flange where the 4-2 joins to the 2-1 touches the block by the front lower 17mm gearbox bolt. I managed to get away with cutting a notch out of the flange. Massive improvement over the giant catalytic converter from the 1st gen 4e.

Pic 2s 5efe rod next to the fhe rods is exactly how mine were when I compared them, that's why I used the dis rods

The 3e, 1st gen 5e, and fhe rods all look the same. The 5efe rods in that pic are the dis rods. Same ones im using. The width in the 2nd picture now shows how the fhe rods are skinnier than the dis rods, in my opinion where it counts the most.

Sorry double post.

This topic is highly controversial. The picture you posted is only one of a pair. The fhe rods are thicker front to rear(of the engine not the car) and thinner exhaust to intake. In my opinion, because of how the rods rotate on the crankshaft, the forces acting upon the crank would indicate that a wider rod (exhaust to intake) would withstand more strain, while a narrower rod front to rear of engine will be more "aerodynamic". Regardless, bad fuel/poor or no tuning causing detonation will destroy any rod. I recently built my engine using 5efe dis rods because i believe yamaha/toyota wo

Mr. Jiggaman a pleasure to see your build is still alive. This is Sudden from wheelsJa. In time i shall unveil how far i have gotten aswell.

bout time

Could be the ecu. the younger model e series engines have more fuel saving features like lean burn mode etc. saw on another forum a guy having the same issues. larger injectors helped a bit but...I could be completely wrong because I thought the lean burn mode was on the distributorless models only but, who knows.

glad to see another ITB'd N/A keep it up. looks and sounds good

not a big fan of starlets without wings, but yours looks damn good without one. maybe a lower profile wing, more in line with the roof? (TTE?)

you could try measuring the cams with a multimeter (base circle to peak)

Thats a Corolla KE70... not a Datsun. Glad to finally see more updates, almost forgot about your Facebook posts.

I just noticed one or 2 sneak peeks of my car are in this thread lol. Get back to work Hitman, is the water/meth hooked up yet?

I'm jealous of those pistons. the oem pistons next to them are 5efhe or 4efe?

Found this ages ago, should be of some assistance >http://youtu.be/Z0xqwhRe71s EDIT: (copypasta) - Uploader Comments (hvguy) Kenneth Baldacchino 2 years ago you mean the gearbox from a 4age ?? it won't bolt up did u use a flange to connect it or something ??, great vid by the way Reply · hvguy 2 years ago sorry for late response: ill post links in the description: since the starter is on the wrong side =( I had to cut out a section of the bell housing to clear the nose of the starter, I bolted the starter to the shim plate thats attached to the engine, I then TIG welded a lug to the

stock 5efhe compression is 9.8:1, however, the 4ef/ 4efe piston dome is almost twice as tall.... My aim is to use oem parts to 'modify' mine. not sure how accurate my calculations were but it should be somewhere in the 10:62:1 compression range. cylinder pressure doesn't tell me much about compression ratio because my stock 4efe is 230/ 240 across each cyl and its 9.6:1 cr. so I'm not going by that. interesting info on the crank, I guess that would be cheaper than a full knife edge job, and would be a kind of engine insurance. Water injection would allow you to run ignition timing you wouldn't

Any plans to run Standalone management? the fhe valve springs and cams are good for much more rpms, you barely scrape the peak of the power band by shifting at 6k. Also very jealous you guys have the c161 4efe 6 speed boxes avaliable to you, I'm considering going down the C56 gearbox route or a hybrid c150 with c140 1st 3rd and crownwheel. Specifically is your crank Knife edged? I would like to have mine done but 5e are rare as hens teeth and I would cry if anything were to go wrong with my crank in someone elses hands. Any plans for higher compression + water injection setup?

this is still on the 4efe ecu and distributor? how bout another video so we can see where you are shifting etc? really notice how quickly it revs, going to consider having my crank done since i'm going the same direction (but with higher compression ) Don't you just hate that 1st to 2nd bog with the c150 gearbox?

the 4E-F carb cams differ to the other 2 sets. they have less duration and or Lift as I recall. low end torque, workhorse engine ? I have a set. Wish I weren't so far out to sea, I'd donate them to be properly measured and updated in the database. had seen the specs on another forum before I had acquired the 4E-F though.

5E block + 4E-F pistons + yamaha R6 2003 throttlebodies or carburettors( CV-slides are important for the combination ), 5E-FHE cams( doubt the speed vision cams would clear these pistons, but I'm not sure ), coil packs. Megasquirt. or megajolt( if you are using the bike carbs ), water/meth injection. Make the most use of your timing. Modified a 4age 20v silvertop 4-2 header to suit the E series flange and using the stock 4age 20v 2-1 downpipe stepped down to 2 inch piping with resonators or muffler of your choice, no bigger than 2 inch till the exit. looks stock on the outside. Budget

Swapped out my rod knocking basterd of a 5efhe for a 4efe head/block and I'm reusing all of the 5e parts; 225cc injectors, non ACIS intake manifold, 4-2-1 exhaust, with a toyota Sera ecu (I plan to use the cams/shims/buckets/valve springs eventually I just need it back on the road asap). Engine finally in and hooked up-ish, damn loom seems to be dry rot or something plugs breaking up into tiny pieces and wires breaking, but the engine starts. Problem: when I give it gas the revs hesitate and drop below idle instead of increasing, ;) I'm guessing its a distributor problem. Any tips?