Trevstar

Please do, I've always loved them, I don't think I will ever know any other car as intimately as these and I enjoy seeing them being restored to a good standard! Also, you see where the rear passenger pockets are, pop them out if you can and have a look down into the sills as I'm seeing a lot of them starting to suffer from rust in that area just in front of the rear wheels. If you look underneath, there should be an oval rubber plug there, get yourself a cheap borescope snake camera that you can plug into your phone (unless you already have one) and have a poke around inside where that

Ohh right right right, apologies, I see where you're coming from now, I thought you meant they put a carbon coating onto the faces of the worm gears to increase friction between two metal surfaces 😅 that carbon fiber plate is to create preload, but as far as I know preload is something that's more for clutch type LSD's, I wasnt aware that a helical can be preloaded in that way Torque, friction & traction I will leave to be explained by someone else that understands it better and can explain it better than I can, but in terms of LSD's it's the traction or slip at the wheel/tire that de

Ahhh see this is where things start to get confusing, where you have 2 companies that recommend different things 🤔 As Quaife suggests the opposite - https://shop.quaife.co.uk/rem I've had a few conversations with Nova racing (that does my superfinishing), plus a couple with Quaife themselves, and from my understanding with the research I've done, I don't understand why you would want to add friction to a gear when that's not quite how a helical type diff operates (Toyota, TRD, Quaife, wavetrac or otherwise), but especially with a coating that adds friction, surely that means the coat

Yeah, superfinishing isn't really something you can do at home lol The gears inside your diff don't work by friction but by torque biasing by design of the worm gears which sends torque to the wheel with the most resistance when they start to spin at different speeds, provided both driven wheels have some resistance, otherwise if one wheel has zero resistance (if one wheel was off the ground for example), it will act as an open diff In a diff, when you travel in a straight line everything inside the diff is spinning together as one, but once you start to take a corner and things star

It is similar to WPC although it doesn't increase strength as such, basically they put it in a tub of extremely fine abrasive stones and vibrate the tub over night and it leaves a highly polished & extremely smooth finish that reduces friction (less wear and fatigue, which can cause cracks), which in turn reduces drag meaning less effort to turn the gears (less wasted power in other words). And it only removes a tiny miniscule amount of material Given the choice between WPC or superfinishing, ideally I'd actually say a combination of both (WPC can be done over superfinishing), especia

Yeah the quality control of the cams will forever be a mystery, but I can't say I've personally ever heard of any breaking or having any issues Once you have removed the screws, get something like a chisel then gently & evenly tap around the edges of two halves to wedge them apart and separate them Not that your LSD is likely to wear out any time soon, but if you can, once it's apart I'd suggest looking into getting the gears super finished so that they mesh with each other more smoothly to give them an easier life and last longer, same with the gearbox gears

@snails ep91 @Sam44 Cheers guys! The cylinder head probably has a couple weeks worth of hours put into it, even the dremel I bought specifically to do the job is starting to act up and make strange noises so I don't think it can take much more 😂 But if something is gonna be done, it's got to be done properly! Especially when most of the time people give up tuning n/a's. And I think it's good to document everything to share information for others that might want to do something similar, or even if (and thats a very strong if) the car ended up in someone else's hands one day, the

To get the diff apart you'll need an impact driver that you hit with a hammer like THIS to get the screws out (and do the reverse when you re-install them), and then tap around it to get it to separate 👍🏻 And don't worry about the chipping on the camshafts, they're all more or less like that from the factory I like what you've done with your catch can, and good job with the model 😎

26/4/2021 So ive finished the work inside the combustion chambers and measured their volume. They were all within 0.5cc of each other but I wanted to try to bring this closer, so I did a little more trimming inside two of the chambers and re-measured them I also done the gasket matching on the inlet side The final result: I measured the chambers several times and on average (taking into account any measurement errors) they're all within 0.3cc of each other 😎 not bad for a back garden combustion chamber re-profiling I used the dokuro va

Your very welcome mate, glad your pleased with it 😎👍🏻

Cheers lads! Never any half arsed BS here! 😉 Hopefully should help it breath better than just the porting alone

Rust in the sills in front of the rear wheels by any chance? I really hope that having it restored/repaired is something viable for you 🙏🏻🤞🏻

Thanks again for your advise, if it weren't for you it would never have been done! Was scared to touch the chambers first time round as I didn't have the knowledge of what to remove. Do wonder about my valve guides now though from what we talked about I haven't gasket matched the inlet ports as of yet as I didn't have a gasket so I was going to revisit that once I had a gasket to match it to, but I found an old one the other day so I shall get on and do that once I finish sorting the chambers!

8/04/2021 So lately I got the driver seat out to paint the rails. Did that, and re-fitted them and the seat. However the threads on one of the bolt holes decided to shit itself, so out of frustration I decided to re-tap them and fitted some nice beefy M12 stainless steel bolts So a few weeks ago I had taken my cylinder head to have the exterior coated with cerakote (ceramic coating) to reduce engine bay temps by reducing radiating heat. At the same time I was going to have the combustion chambers coated with a ceramic piston coating but after hours of reading/r

😯 Always nice to see an SR being saved, super nice it's got an LSD! Wishing you luck with it! Will be watching this

Much appreciated! Especially since I'm staying naturally asperated I need to squeeze out as much as I possibly can of it, so everything I'm doing that has even the smallest of benefits will all add up (at least I'm hoping it will!)

@Sam44 nice one buddy! Some real good info here, thank you! I shall go about making these changes at some stage Already got the 0.3mm (although its sold as a 0.5mm? 🤔) headgasket ready to rock, plus the 0.15mm head skim. When I get round to building it I shall check the piston to valve clearances, as well as the overall CC and compression ratio And good note about the bracing, everything that comes off during the rebuild I shall put back on 👍🏻 thanks again!

@sam44 ohh okay, I think im with you. So essentially it would look like this?: Also while im there, do you think it would be worth removing a bit of material from around the exhaust valves like so?:

@Sam44 cheers mate! Could you send me a picture highlighting the lip you mean? I've ground back the lips on the back of where the inlet valve seats sit in the head so it's nice and smooth there, but since you said combustion chamber side I don't think this is what you mean?

Dead smart! Might have to copy what you've done here as well 😅 good stuff mate! 👍🏻

That's good to know! I wasn't sure if it were a genuine Toyota item or an aftermarket item. I personally like the look of this one I sold to burty but the rubber one was more suitable for my setup, I'm guessing the rubber one is the Jap version? I'm looking forward to the day we can all have a proper meet!

20/03/2021 Finished the boot lights - glued the LEDs into the plastic lense thing and stuck some aluminium strips onto the back of the LED board to act as a bit of a heatsink but in actual practice it's probably not needed Although if I was going to do this again, I would probably place the lights differently as the clearance between the plastics and the chassis is minimal with where they are now but I got lucky with my guess work I also copied the idea from @Claymoreand got a Glanza radiator expansion/overflow bottle for use at a later date. Didn't come with a brac

@Claymore gotcha 👌🏻 @Sam44 😂 I don't know why it looks pink, but it's definitely red lol

@Claymore cheers buddy 👍🏻 and lol yeah, reason I like to update the same post is so that its all in big chunks and easier to digest & recap (at least in my mind lol), and then post saying update to bump it once I feel its full enough Or do you reckon it would be better to just post new posts each time?

How has this not sold yet?