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Well, too bad you have this low prices. Here in Germany I bought my spoiler alone for 170 which is roughly 130pound (incl shipping). Also for me too bad rhat shipping from eg. Northern Ireland to me is more then 80pound.

Why not simply run only low boost on high cr? You have the power earlier and also pull off better from low down. In my opinion perfect.

Yes, that's exactly what most factory turbo setups do. It gives you less lag, less noise and (as far as I read) a longer turbo life as chatter really hurts the bearings and everything movin in the turbo casing (well, the german word would be "Welle", litterally also meaning "wave" but in this context would be the gear going through intake and exhaust wheel connecting them). The pressurized air when closing the throttle with no blow off (or dump valve) will not actually cause the turbo to stall as mostly there still is some air exiting the exhaust because the engine still runs. But there is muc

Cold side, then reroute so that the blown off air comes into the intake before the turbo. Less annoying sound and less lag when changing gears or similar. Well, had a read around for half an hour and that's how it's the only legal way in germany but also the most favorable. Especially on drag or track driving with many gear changes.

If you lower the compression please use a normal 5EFE and don't ruin the rare FHE. If you lower the compression it's a normal 5Efe again

True, mine is ticking on idle too. Seems to be injectors. Well also the dash or something in the heater tunnels is rattling sometimes.

KSport or D2 are good too (are both essentially the same). Other than that I'd go for MeisterR. And that's only because if they fail youcan get spares and they are sold new in Europe, both K-Sport/D2 and Meister-R. Well, at least in Germany D2 are cheaper than Meister-R.

That bonnet with a Remix Front would look awesome. I want one now too I love scoops on cars, not overly big ones but like this looks awesome.

Well, if the engine is not forged with low tolerance the tolerances are bigger than in todays new engines, so as far as I know a thicker oil is better for this old engines. Mine runs on 10W40 summer and winter. That's what was in the engine for 16 Years now (well, changed obviously bur always 10W40) and I won't change thickness now.

Well, may I ask in here, which Rad is vetter for cooling? The Civic Rad looks better but which works better?

Is that a scooped bonnet in the shape of a normal NA bonnet? It fits perfectly with NA bumper? Never seen that but want so badly Oo

I get a bit cheaper ones from Bosch. Have a friend working in a local Bosch garage (is that the word for a shop that repairs cars?). Well but I pay the shop price, not the end user price. Is OE spec but roughly around 15 pound then. The inly Bosch thing the cars don't like are their spark plugs ^^

Well, until I get the money for maybe turboing it there could go a year or two. And this long it has to last.

Get a 88ps Corolla E10 4-2-1 Exhaust manifold and either FTE (same as E10 88ps inlet afaik) or a Corolla E11 tubular intake manifold. Better breathing means both, intake and exhaust. The two most powerful german NAs I know of each use one of them. The E10 mani user raised his rev limit and the E11 user has a OBX exhaust mani, 200cell cat, higher compression etc. While they both make same power torque on the one with E11 mani is way better as on the other car the more power comes mainly from higher revs. And afaik only there the Glanza aka E10 mani is a bit better as it's build for having a h

Well, late answer due to not having internet. Well, mine's a NA and I want it to rev a bit more. But as the engine has run 220k km alreadyI wanted a bit better springs. Even fte ones would be better, but in Germany iit's easier to get a few 5Es than a fte.

Well, don't be offended please, but I won't so such a bad work. If they are stretching ones I'll replace them. Sometimes tuners tend to do things only halfhearted or illegal, like a decat, I'd rather use a bigger cat with fewer cells than throwing the cat out. It's more work and more expensive but it's one time upgrade and I won't get trouble with TÜV or the cops. Same with the bolts, if they were reusable okay, as it's still my old NA with 220k km on the clocks. But as they are not reusable I'll get new ones. I already saved on the gaskets as I got a head rebuild kit out of UK for not even

Thanks. Was thinking they were stretching ones too but as a sheet I have said otherwise I wanted to make sure.

Question in Title, thanks in advance.

To make it short there is no such thing as a 4-2-1 inlet mani.

Of you build doorboards you can fit em. From stock afaik no.

Well, sitting on the toilet taking a shit with a smartphone helps to get the courage to write a long and detailed text ;) Lol, thinking of it, my best and longest answers in this forum have mostly been written that way xD At the PC I and most other people are to busy with doing like twenty things at the same time to get the time to write long text, thus most answers are relatively short. Interesting if you think about it. But stopping the off topic, I'm glad I could help you. On a sidenote, the safety reasons I meant was, that if you are really unfortunate (it's unlikey but better safe

Well, first things first, you should try to run the power wiring along your drivers side. I did for safety purposes as the fuel tank inlet sits on your passenger side (for me fortunately it's the other way round). Through the middle is not an option as sound cables (and remote for the amp) should not be near the power cables as this would, especially in stronger setups, lead to interferences and thus a not so good sounding speaker (regardless of class of speaker). To wire the sound cables through the middle you can pull out your headunit, loosen the handbrake and gearknob surround, stuff the c

Well, why not. I'm more of a practical guy and would sink my equpment in. And I like the added weight because without it the rear tends to slide in hard corners because of not enough traction on the rear. More weight, more grip. Till a point after which the more weight is more than the added grip can hold.

For oil press I'd use two thresholds, one for too low and one for too high. And if it's too low I'd have tge display display "Oil pressure low" with an annoying beeping.

Watched em all. And are nearly crying from giggling