Mike-530 Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 (edited) Hello people. As title says, i have had a major headache with said problem for some time now. Had the glanza forged at TD a while back. When I collected the car there was a slight tapping noise on idle. I was told this was piston slap as the car was warming. I later found out this was not the case. When the clutch was disengaged the noise would stop. We put this down to excessive play in the input shaft. The inevitable happened and the splines on both the input shaft and clutch where stripped. Had the gearbox opened up and the bearings wernt great but not too bad. I purchased another box locally and another spec 6 clutch. Rebuilt the car and identical tapping noise occurred resulting to stripped input shaft and clutch hub splines again. Starting to get really expensive and annoying. Anyone came across similar damage or know anything? I can only think something is not aligned correct. Sorry dont know how to upload pics. ThanksMike Edited September 6, 2016 by Mike-530 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Im sure someone on here had similar issues, Not sure who though im afraid.Also you can either upload directly if on a pc or by switching to the full version and using the more reply options, or upload to photobucket or similar and post the IMG link into your relpy and you will have the image appear in your post Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 Cheers for reply buddy. Just tried working that photobucket but wouldnt let me upload photos 😞Thanks Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gazza g Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 i went through a couple of cheap release bearings fairly quick, within a 100 mile they started knocking. what bearings are you using? i opted for a blueprint one in the end and am upto 500 mile with no noise/knocking so far Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 Easy mate. Im using the release that comes with the spec 6 clutch. I think the noise is related to trans issues im having and im sure that this isn't the reason im stripping my input shafts and clutch lol. Thanks for replyMike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MR-2 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Sound from engine, crankshaft side movement bearing clearance ok? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Im assuming if the input shaft was stripped by the friction plate that you had to replace the input shaft when you rebuilt it? Have you torqued on the fly wheel? it might not be sitting flush when it was re-fitted to the engine post forging. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gazza g Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Easy mate. Im using the release that comes with the spec 6 clutch. I think the noise is related to trans issues im having and im sure that this isn't the reason im stripping my input shafts and clutch lol. Thanks for replyMikeSorry didn't read your post properly lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Check everything properly and use a genuine toyota release bearing. Also i have seen some members have had a few issues with the spec clutches. Sometimes the slave cylinder other times release bearing failure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) Im assuming if the input shaft was stripped by the friction plate that you had to replace the input shaft when you rebuilt it? Have you torqued on the fly wheel? it might not be sitting flush when it was re-fitted to the engine post forging.Yes mate, friction plate was stripped and so was the input shaft. So i replaced both cluch and brougt a new box and the same happend a month later 😞This time round i have took the fly off and had it skimmed just to be sure. It was definitely torqued when i removed it lol. Thanks for replying Mike Edited August 18, 2016 by Mike-530 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 Check everything properly and use a genuine toyota release bearing. Also i have seen some members have had a few issues with the spec clutches. Sometimes the slave cylinder other times release bearing failure.Ok bud i will bare that in mind. Could a dodgy release bearing really strip the clutch and shaft? Both of them i removed looked sound. I have just brought another spec clutch. I didn't know these things weren't rated. What would be the best clutch for 300hp ?Thanks Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 spec clutches are utter shite, not just for starlets but also for audis and evos.stay well away from them. just check some reviews on google and see for yourself Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 Sound from engine, crankshaft side movement bearing clearance ok?Not sure where the noise is from mate. All i know is that it only makes it when its idleing in neutral. Put your foot down on the cluch and the noise stops. Is there any checks i can do engine side?Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 spec clutches are utter shite, not just for starlets but also for audis and evos.stay well away from them. just check some reviews on google and see for yourselfNoo way!! Wish i knew this before. Had the whole car built at tuning developments and that is their cluch of choice (not cheap either). What other clutches are recommended for this power?CheersMike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) just bite the bullet and order an ORC 309D from RHD japan or an os geiken multiplate if you can stretch your budget.I would also stay away from competition clutches Edited August 18, 2016 by H_D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nikhilkamdar12 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 spec clutches are utter shite, not just for starlets but also for audis and evos. stay well away from them. just check some reviews on google and see for yourself I wouldn't say this personally, I have a SPEC 6 and had zero problems with it. It likes to judder a bit if you don't give it enough pulling away but other than that its brilliant. I think you may have a bigger underlying issue if your engine/gearbox is eating up clutches and you're on your second one! I don't believe you could of had 2 faulty clutches in a row, plausible but not likely! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 just bite the bullet and order an ORC 309D from RHD japan or an os geiken multiplate if you can stretch your budget.I would also stay away from competition clutchesOk buddy, I'll bare that in mind. What sort of money we talking for one of these? I thought 330 was steep for the spec lol !!Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) I think you may have a bigger underlying issue if your engine/gearbox is eating up clutches and you're on your second one! I don't believe you could of had 2 faulty clutches in a row, plausible but not likely! Definitely a underlying issue mate. Second clutch went just after i ran it in and took input shaft splines with it. Am i right in thinking the only problem it could possibly be on the engine side is crank balancing?Thanks Edited August 18, 2016 by Mike-530 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Ok buddy, I'll bare that in mind. What sort of money we talking for one of these? I thought 330 was steep for the spec lol !!Thanksbetween £600-£1000 depending on which one you go for Quote Link to post Share on other sites
H_D Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Any competent engine builder will always get the crank balanced before fitting, they will also weigh your rods and pitons to ensure they are all of an equal weight. If the engine was build by TD im sure it would have been done properly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 between £600-£1000 depending on which one you go forWow pretty steep then. And yes, your right. I have spoken to mike about it and he says it cant be balancing as it would be pretty much knackered by now lol. The motor has ran mint since I've had it back so i have been sure this isn't my problem. Cheers for reply bud!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vturbo Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 had the same happen to me, and a few others i know of, waste of time and money.now using an orc309 and its great. i didnt have any noise prior to this either, stripped the splines after 900miles of running in Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 How much power/torque are you running mate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 had the same happen to me, and a few others i know of, waste of time and money.now using an orc309 and its great. i didnt have any noise prior to this either, stripped the splines after 900miles of running inOk bud think i might go for it tbf. Can't believe these SPEC clutches are that bad!! Have cost me a fortune😞ThanksMike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike-530 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) How much power/torque are you running mate?Made 305 on a tdo4 hybrid. Can remember the torque.Cheers Edited August 18, 2016 by Mike-530 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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