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21 minutes ago, Pikey009 said:

We had a big brief in the workshop on Friday and had a lot of other people in there from other departments, the interest the SR and GT got was ridiculous. I’ve had 5 serious offers on the GT now lol and have explained the SR isn’t mine to sell

Hardly surprising,😂 did you explain the value of the tte lip

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I explained that the car is all how Toyota intended from the factory and they couldn’t believe it. I just wish they’d have stuck the 98 glanza interior In With a 1.5 or something to finish it off 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Getting back in the saddle.. Again...

25/08/2020

 

Right then, here we are once again, FINALLY!

 

After too long I am now ready to start getting back into the swing of things again. So were are we at currently?

Well the SR is still being looked after by Jase the previous owner (BIG thank you to him for looking after it all this time!!), but will soon be returned.

As for myself, I am still physically fucked, still have a lot of pain in my legs, tiredness & weakness. This is mostly probably down to the fact that I actually still have a broken leg (over 2 years on..) which is only being kept stable by the titanium rod inside which prevents me from doing any physio after all this time. This is due to be addressed but delays that were out of my control, caused by third parties (If you know, you know) and now covid.

 

Speaking of covid, I hope that everyone is well and has managed to avoid it.

 

I want to say thank you for all the support I have received from you guys here at UKSO, from the start of this build, through my car crash, and to now. I have dealt with depression & mental heath issues throughout my relatively young life and this community is truly the only place I actually feel welcomed. I only wish the rest of the world was like this community we have here. 

 

But enough of the soppy shit, you didnt come here to read about me, you came here to see the progress!

 

So, today I decided to continue on with the gearbox. Now that its been about 3 years since I took the thing apart, so obviously I have mostly forgotten where the fuck everything goes. But luckily thanks to some parts diagrams (I typically use Japan-Parts.eu, or a combination of that and Amayama which is good for updated/revised part numbers and ordering OEM parts that are unavailable in the UK) and with a decent amount of help from Morgey (who went out his way to compare something for me when something wasn't quite right), I managed to piece this advanced puzzle back together bit by bit.

 

For now though ive only put the input shaft back together as I need to strip the Ae111 C56 Levin gearbox I bought years ago and steal the output shaft and final drive (which will help me familiarise myself for when I put the starlet box back together), reassemble the output shaft, check & shim the quaife ATB diff (if it needs it) and then put the box together completely. So I will probably do this at some point this week or next and hopefully re-write my gearbox rebuild guide that randomly disappeared (might also make a video this time as well as a write up). Until then, tomorrow I am going to take the casings to be powder coated as I decided it will be more durable. Below are a few pictures of the reassembled input shaft and the parts that I have/will be replaced.

 

 

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So we got all new bearings through-out (Input & output shaft bearings, gear needle bearings, and diff bearings), all new syncros, new 2nd gear and reverse gear hub (which meshes with second gear, as both syncro teeth were quite badly worn), and I have lightly filed the syncro teeth on all other gears with a diamond file to sharpen them so they aren't quite as worn out and rounded (which took fucking ages might I add). This is probably the closest anyone is going to get to a completely brand new gearbox. Albeit a C52 hybrid using C56 Levin components

So thats all for now really, still trying to hunt down a 5efhe engine or short block (REALLY regret selling the one I had), but I did buy a UK spec 5efe ECU to run it on so it should work with the 4efe sensors (save me having to buy 5efe sensors) and have a working immobiliser. Also, the company I spoke with about reproducing the 5efhe cams arent getting back to me for some reason. 🙄

 

27/8/2020

Right then, so went to take the cases down to be powder coated today (well technically yesterday as it's 4:55am at the time of writing this) and they gave me a fairly reasonable price but to knock the cost down a little bit more I said I will take them away and mask them up myself so it's less work for them, and give the cases to them tomorrow (today) to be blasted and powder coated. I should have done this to begin with tbh, don't know why I didn't, but they even provided me with some special tape to survive the blasting, which was nice.

 

Its not really worth showing but it took me fucking ages to do this so I'm going to upload the pictures of my work 😅😴

 

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The next thing I'm going to do is polish the contact points on the selector forks, which is normally done on motorbikes to reduce friction and help give slightly smoother shifting, so in my opinion this would apply to a cars gearbox in theory. Either way, beneficial or not, it won't hurt it. 

 

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Once the cases come back I will then go ahead and start stripping the Levin box, giving me some time to rest up a bit. Also trying to find a large tripod so I can video the disassembly and reassembly of the box and make a guide. 

 

Now it's 3pm, and caught some Z's, and I'm taken the gearbox cases to be sprinkled with powder and baked, I have opted for 'RAL 7013 brown grey' with a satin finish. I also took a moment to grind off the rebuilt date I stamped in and restamped it with an updated date (previous one was stamped 2017 and is actually only being rebuilt now, so no good having 2 years added onto it that it hasn't done).

 

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I have also spoken to a company not far from me called NOVA Racing, who are very well known in the motorbike scene that work on & produce gearboxes for the likes of BSB and WSBK etc., as I am thinking about having the gears superfinished before I go too far assembling. Seeing as I'm going to some pretty extreme lengths with this box, why not? Lol 

 

Superfinishing is basically a micro polishing of sorts, that (like with the selector forks I mentioned earlier) reduces friction, giving slightly smoother gear changes, and improves oil retention, which both increase the life of the gears. 

 

In addition to everything I have done today, I have polished the contact points on the selector forks

 

Before:

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After:

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Super smooth!! But thats me done for the day! 

 

2/9/2020 

 

So last night I started disassembling the input shaft again at around 7-8pm to get the gears and shaft ready to be superfinished, and then I moved on to stripping down the Levin box to steal the output shaft and diff ring gear for the same treatment, and I found myself working all the way through to 6:40am this morning lol (it's 7:30am as I write this and I'm only just about to go to bed haha 😂)

 

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My arm, back and heels feel stiff and ache like hell, my legs are fucking killing me, and I am absolutely shattered. But it was worth it! Hopefully... 😅

I was really surprised to find that the Levin gearbox appears to be relatively low mileage. The box itself was relatively clean, no corrosion whatsoever, and looked almost new! Upon opening it, it clearly hadn't been apart before as I still had toyota's red sealant and the components inside had minimal wear, the oil looked relatively clean, and the internal magnet didn't seem to have much stuck to it. So I've even pinched a few other little bits out of it to put into mine

 

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The only downside to this is that it was a RIGHT bastard to get the gears off the shafts as they were very very tight being soo new! After a lot of swearing I eventually managed to get them off but I know I'm definitely going to be feeling it later today when I eventually wake up tomorrow. Already feeling it already 😩 also managed to lose a layer of skin of my finger

 

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But no pain, no gain right!? Or something along those lines lol 😂 

 

Once I removed the diff ring gear from the Levin box, I checked it was the correct bolt pattern for the ATB LSD, then I counted the teeth on the diff ring gear and pinion on the output shaft of both the Levin box and what came out of my C52 GT Turbo box to calculate the final drives to ensure it was what I was after (and that I hadn't wasted my time). The final drive of my GT Turbo C52 gearbox was 3.722 which was to be expected, and the final drive of the AE111 Levin C56 gearbox is 4.312 which is exactly what I was after! Like the moron that I am though, in my excitement, I fitted the Levin ring gear to the LSD straight away, forgetting that it was supposed to be superfinished along with the other bits.

 

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I could just remove it but I worry that the bolt locking tabs will break if they're bent too many times (each bolt has two locking tabs and I already broke one), and out of pure laziness I'm going to leave it as is. Diff ring gear wearing out isn't really an issue as it's always engaged and as long as it is shimmed correctly in the first place, it's more the gears themselves and syncros that wear due to engaging and disengaging under load. I also took a moment to stretch the springs slightly on the ball bearing shifter arm locators as suggested in a post below by Sam44 to preload the springs to have a slightly stronger engagement and reduce the chances of popping out of gear. Come to think of it I might try adding some small washers if I can find some small enough to preload the springs as well. 

 

And that's about it for now, I've boxed up all the bits from the input and output shafts to be superfinished

 

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And now, I'm going to bed 😂😂

 

3:40pm, just went and dropped off the gears at NOVA racing. Spoke to a lovely bloke called Dan, he said that all in all was going to cost £200 odd as they charge £15 per gear, and £50 per larger items because they have to be put through the machine on their own but he said he will do it for £180 which was nice of him. They also do crankshafts now too apparently so that's something to think about in the future. 

 

11/09/2020 

 

Got the gears back today from Nova racing, they look and feel gorgeous. There's no sharpness on the edges of the teeth and they all feel mega smooth, even in areas it still look rough. It's not a brightly polished shine like I expected, it's a bit hard to explain but they have a dark but deep wet look and they feel incredibly smooth to the point it actually feels soft and velvet like 🤔🤷🏼‍♂️ although the darkness of the colour is probably just down to the natural colour of the metal.

 

The surface of the gears are now supposed to have a better ability for the oil to cling to the surface (might explain why the surface feels the way it does), and because the surface is smoother, supposedly it also means the gears aren't grinding together as much (at a microscopic level I assume?) which both help reduce heat, wear and drag. It also seems to have been a very gentle process as it appears to have taken off as little material as possible. 

 

So hopefully all this will translate into these blinged out gears being worth it! If not then I have just paid £180 to have something polished for nothing and won't even be seen 😅😅

 

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13/09/2020

 

Put all the gears on the shafts today. Pretty straight forward, although I had a weird issue with the 3rd & 4th selector hub on the input shaft where it would easily move up and down a few mm by hand for some reason after being pressed into place 🤔 possibly from being fitted and removed so many times messed with its tolerance? 

 

So to rectify this I just took the hub off the Levins input shaft and replaced it with that instead. The only difference is that the Levin hub has different type 'selector keys', and the synchromesh rings are different to suit, so I took these off the Levins shaft as well, and I was still able to use the hub sleeve that had been superfinished.

 

Fortunately, as previously mentioned, the Levin box is low mileage so I'm not too worried about the syncros not being new, plus I'm not prepared to wait a month and pay import taxes to get new ones 🤞🏻😅

At least if I ever have problems with 3rd and/or 4th gear, we'll know why! 

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Edited by Trevstar
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Yeh I second that. I'll message you soon about what we spoke about. Im crazy busy at work I'll be back in a few week for a weekend. 

Great to see you back modifying. sorry to hear about your health, there's nothing like a project to help take your mind off things, just take your time. 

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On 8/9/2020 at 9:43 PM, Pikey009 said:

I explained that the car is all how Toyota intended from the factory and they couldn’t believe it. I just wish they’d have stuck the 98 glanza interior In With a 1.5 or something to finish it off 

Totally agree, as lovely as it is, they could have done a little more to make the SR a bit more special

 

On 8/2/2020 at 3:17 PM, Starletson said:

Nice work bud 😎

On 8/8/2020 at 11:44 AM, burty said:

Always loved this SR gotta be one of the best in the country along with Dalesr low mileage, I really hope these start going up in value soon I always get people asking about mine in petrol stations etc

On 8/26/2020 at 8:45 AM, Claymore said:

Good work dude. Looking forward to an N/A build. 

On 8/26/2020 at 11:51 AM, Sam44 said:

Yeh I second that. I'll message you soon about what we spoke about. Im crazy busy at work I'll be back in a few week for a weekend. 

Great to see you back modifying. sorry to hear about your health, there's nothing like a project to help take your mind off things, just take your time. 

 

Cheers guys! Much appreciated! Glad to finally be back at it! 😁👍🏻

Edited by Trevstar
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I was just updating myself on the gearbox build. 

I had the sixspeed gears ceramic beed polished/case hardening. 

Nice work. 

Another thing I did was to stretch the gear position locking springs around 5mm to help locate and keep gear. Mine had squashed with use and felt sloppy in position (weak).

Edited by Sam44
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5 hours ago, SKINY said:

Good to see you back at it  :)

Thanks bro!! 😁

1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

Another thing I did was to stretch the gear position locking springs around 5mm to help locate and keep gear. Mine had squashed with use and felt sloppy in position (weak).

Sam, are you talking about the 2 circlip type springs that live in the selector hubs? I may do this 

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No. There positioned in the casing against each selector shaft behind a flat Allen key screw. It's a spring in a cup with a ball bearing. I'm back. I'll add a pic from my spare starlet I've got in Oxfordshire. 

 

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This is a c60 box but there all in the same place. There are 2x more under the selector arm. 

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This is a repair any 1 can do if you want a better gear position feel (stronger in and hold position). I did this to help me feel the gear position better. And at first mine kept kicking out of third. 

Forgot I had this Yaris desile box in the garage. You can see the 2x under the selector arm.

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Edited by Sam44
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

8/10/2020

Been off doing other things recently but a few bits have been done inbetween, been chatting with @burty a fair bit and he's going to be getting a few bits from me for his SR (you can check his thread HERE)

@Pikey009 brought my SR back on 30/09/20, who has been kindly looking after it and maintaining it for me for a good long while. It was great to see him again and to say thanks I gave him a cusco rear strut brace and the round TRD gear knob that was in the SR when I bought it from him, seemed only right to hand back to him for his GT as I wasn't using it (you can check out his GT HERE

 

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On the same day I collected my gearbox cases from the powder coaters, and to be honest I'm not particularly happy with how its turned out. I opted for RAL 7013 brown grey which is supposed to look like this:

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But what I have ended up with is something that more resembles a bloody WW2 U.S. army Willie's Jeep!! 

 

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I wasn't happy but I was told 'that's the colour you chose', even though it wasn't the same as the sample card (admittedly it wasn't miles off), and I wasn't particularly happy with the price either. I was quoted £80 for the job, and that was BEFORE I suggested that I would mask it all up myself to bring the price down a touch, but somehow it climbed up to £100?

It also turns out its not even powder coat, it's a polyurethane paint, which is fine as it's just as good as powder coating but it would have been nice to have been told that that's what they were going to do/recommend

So I weighed up my options, do I either say I want it done again and wait another 3 weeks for it to be done, or pay someone else to have it done again elsewhere and wait however long, or do I just take it as is?

So I chose to just take it as is, he did knock the price back down the £80 but to be honest I don't think I will going back there again. After showing Jase when he came down to drop the car off he reminded me that at the end of the day it's just a gearbox, its protected by the polyurethane paint and it wasn't worst colour in the world. And after a little bit of deliberating with Burty I came to the conclusion that yeah it won't really be seen anyway, and the bits you can see might even blend in quite well once everything is done (I.E. after getting the block done etc.). To be fair in certain light it does look how its supposed to, but what you lot think of it?

 

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On the 6/10/20 I got back to getting on with the gearbox by measuring the preload of the LSD which came to 0.6-0.7nm on a 2.25mm 'D' shim, so I have ordered a 2.20mm 'C' shim to hopefully get that to about 0.3~0.4nm.

Now, unfortunately no one seems to have a workshop manual for C52 or C56 boxes, and I cannot find any Starlet specific specifications anywhere online either, so all I have to go by is a workshop manual for a MR2 C60 gearbox, and there are 2 specified preload ranges for it (on new bearings), one for open differential, and one for LSD.

So given the manual I'm going by is for a C60, and it doesn't say what type of LSD the preload is for (IE, mechanical or helical), its a bit of a stab in the dark. 

 The 0.3~0.4nm preload I'm going for is at the higher end of the range recommended in the manual for a LSD using new bearings, but if I tried to go any lower then I risk going below the recommended range and not being enough preload

I have spoken to 2 companies that fit quaife LSD's which either said they just 'eyeball it' or 'go by feel' (whatever that means? :unknw:), and I even spoke to quaife directly but they said they 'dont tend to get involved with fitment, best thing to do is go with the manufacture specifications' (which no one has!).

So with the lack of information, I'm guessing the preload isn't too crucial on these :pardon: Besides, I have seen a few people fit these LSD's without even giving any consideration to shimming or preloading it, and they haven't reported any issues that I'm aware of

 

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While I wait for the new shim to arrive I thought I would tackle a little gremlin of mine. My C's short shifter.

Jase didnt like the short shifter, so he went about fitting a standard shifter unit while he was looking after it, but for me I love how much of a difference it makes. Would've loved a TRD one though, less agressive and slightly longer on the shifts compared to the C's but more appealing I think.

The issue I had ages ago when I first fitted it was that the stick was quite a reach forward for 1st gear and it would twat the cup holders if they were out. I kind of sorted that by cutting out a pie cut, bending the shifter arm back and MIG welded it into place which helped but certainly didnt sort the problem completely, as it would still just tap the cup holders in 1st, 3rd & 5th, and I still had to stretch forward a little to get it in 1st.

 

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I had long forgotten about it but now I have the car back again it stands out to me like bird shit on the windscreen. So to resolve this issue once and for all I dissasembled the shifter unit completely, removed all the plastic parts, stuck it in a vice and heated it red hot with a MAP gas blow torch and bent it with a tube over the shaft (lol, shaft) into something that looks more like the original shifter with the 'S' bend in it, until the previous weld snapped... So I took it away to be welded back on via a TIG welder (because you could tell the old weld had melted onto the metal rather than into it) and tried heating & bending again with much better success! I also bent it back in such a way that it actually has a little bit of a lean towards the driver, and I trimmed away some of the plastic that was rubbing slightly on the rods/cables

 

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Reassembled & regreased the shifter unit and it feels lovely. No more leaning into 1st or tapping the cupholders, it actually clears it by a fair bit, and I can change gears quite comfortably. To finish it off I replaced the non genuine TRD gear gaiter with a black leather one which I now think suits it much better. Looking at the TRD gaiter, it just had a bit too much going on with the TRD gear knob.

(the gear stick is in neutral position in the 3 pictures below) 

 

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(The picture below shows the gear stick in 3rd gear with the cup holder fully extended) 

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Only niggle with the whole thing was that one of the threads decided to strip itself on one of the bolts that hold the shifter unit, but it seems just fine with the 3 remaining bolts in place. I may fit a helicoil if I find the time and/or I have any problems with it.

I still trying my hardest to find a 5EFHE for a reasonable price, but I am really struggling. Seriously someone has one just sitting there in a shed or in a dark corner of a garage. Or even just a set of 5efhe rods sitting in a box under a workbench, at least then all I need to do is find a 5efe block and crank which should be easier.

I bet there's someone on here that knows someone who knows a guy that has one!? Anyone!?!? 😭😭🙏🏻🙏🏻

Thats all for now but it wont be long until another update arrives when my shim arrives and I carry on with the gearbox!

 

11/10/2020

Gearbox time! 

Was working away til 3:30am on the gearbox piecing it all together, hit a few snags along with the way assembling and double/triple checking everything is operating as it should, a lot of jiggling and re fitting, hence why I was working on it soo late. My back, legs and feet are hurting again though 😒 I think in all my over excitement to get it done I over do it. 

The LSD has been reshimed with a 'C' 2.20mm shim and has about the preload I was looking for so that's awesome

 

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Replaced as many bolts as I could with stainless steel bolts depending on my ability to get hold of them, just waiting for a few stainless bolts for the end casing, a stainless oil level plug, and a stainless magnetic oil drain plug. 

Only got a few little bits and pieces I need to fit and and the C52/C56 hybrid LSD gearbox will be all done ready to be mated to an engine I am yet to find and build!

After this is all done I will be revisiting the cylinder head as I want to check the valve guides, grind down the inlet valve guides to match the porting in the runner, get the thing powder coated which will mean it will require another skimming (as this should've been done AFTER, not before powder coating as it can warp the head during the process, don't know why I did it this way, bloody dount!), buy new valves and have a 3 angle valve job and then finally re-shim the valve clearances.

Not too sure what I'm going to do next, going to keep looking for the components to build a 5efhe (may have found some rods and pistons🤞🏻), still need a 5e block and crank shaft. 

Also saw these on Facebook the other day, and Im quite liking the colour, so I'm thinking of getting mine redone in this colour, what you guys think? 

 

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13/10/2020

Continuing a little bit with the gearbox today. I am still waiting on some stainless bolts and the stainless magnetic plug but should be here tomorrow. Until then I just went ahead and cleaned up some of the excess silicone, fitted some external bits that bolt onto the box, and popped into the drive shaft seals etc.:

 

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Edited by Trevstar
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Good read up well put together this is why there will always be a need for the forums 

Like we discussed I really don't mind the colour of that box keep up the good work mate 👍

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Great to see you back on the sr. 

Very nice work. The polishing also makes the gearbox super quite I notice with mine. 

I've also fitted a deflector plate/heat gaurd in-between the rear of the radiator and gearbox front face. I was noticing the gearbox and also intercooler piping getting really quite hot after a run (radiator heat). I'm using bonnet lifters fitted to the hinges at present to let this heat out, but I'll get bonnet vents fitted next year some time. 

Such a nice sr this 1. 

 

 

Edited by Sam44
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On 10/9/2020 at 10:04 AM, burty said:

Good read up well put together this is why there will always be a need for the forums 

Like we discussed I really don't mind the colour of that box keep up the good work mate 👍

 

On 10/9/2020 at 11:23 AM, Claymore said:

Colour looks fine to me also. The later photos it almost looks like that Nissan Skyline green. Great work on the gear set mate. 👍

Thanks guys! 😁 👍🏻 

On 10/9/2020 at 4:02 PM, Sam44 said:

Great to see you back on the sr. 

Very nice work. The polishing also makes the gearbox super quite I notice with mine. 

I've also fitted a deflector plate/heat gaurd in-between the rear of the radiator and gearbox front face. I was noticing the gearbox and also intercooler piping getting really quite hot after a run (radiator heat). I'm using bonnet lifters fitted to the hinges at present to let this heat out, but I'll get bonnet vents fitted next year some time. 

Such a nice sr this 1. 

 

 

Thanks mate! Didn't consider that the polishing makes it quieter, but that's not a bad thing. I'll be looking forward to seeing what kind of style bonnet vents you go for 👍🏻

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