MikeGlanzaV Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Bring the induction stuff with ya mate. Can get that on too if you like.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 Wicked!! Was thinking of maybe getting the exhaust wrapped while i was there too but unsure on whether or not to do it.Oh yeah and ive just paid my deposit for my Racetech Decat too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 It's defo worth wrapping the exhaust just for the popping Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TBDevelopments Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 only thing i find with exhaust wrap is it overheats things like downpipes. downpipes are prone for cracking anyway so retaining the heat just adds to the problemthis is why i got a blitz cast item, then had it ceramic coated to give the performance but also crack free.TimTB Developments Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Yeah decided to not wrap it in the end, as ive heard from a few people in the know that it doesnt help anything so no point wasting my cash getting some heatwrap. Right some good and bad news, Took the trip to monster motorsport again yesterday to get the coilovers dropped at the back. Everything went sucessfull so it now sits like this Much better! Also managed to fit the HKS Mushroom and relocate it too the front like so. Sounds awesome and goes awesome! Also chatters like mad if i block the BOV off. However im now hitting fuel cut in 3rd,4th and 5th So it looks like the turbo is gonna have to come off and were going to have to port the wastegate. Also going to have to get some sort of catch can as i now have a random breather pipe facing the floor Think im going to pick on up from Mike tomorrow which i can have for free so that should hopefully be sorted tomorrow. Mixed emotions on the Glanza right now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tez Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 sounds great doesnt it? Fitted my HKS same as yours. didnt hit fuel cut though im afraid when you port the turbo any chance of taking a before and after pic so i can see how much you took off? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 What boost you running though dude? And what other mods have you got? And yeah shouldnt be a problem, unsure on when ill be doing it though, got to have a word with Keirz. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tez Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 standard boost, custom 2.5 exhaust,hks relocated. & decat to be fitted soon!by the looks of your thread your running about the same ish spec? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ro55ifumi Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 ECU mate? or FCD? an boost controller, when i ported mine it sorted it till it went on the seals, if you can port, get your bro it fit a bigger penny Pic of how far they can be ported This is the tongs one i fitted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Tez think im running slighty more boost mate, ive got the HKS actuator. Turned up one or two turns thats probably the reason why to be honest. John cant afford a ECU and i dont really wanna get a FCD as thats just gonna blow my engine up and it isnt the right why of doing things. Would rather whip it off and port it. Im in a pretty good position to do so through work so may aswell do it untill i can afford some proper management. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ro55ifumi Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Tez think im running slighty more boost mate, ive got the HKS actuator. Turned up one or two turns thats probably the reason why to be honest. John cant afford a ECU and i dont really wanna get a FCD as thats just gonna blow my engine up and it isnt the right why of doing things. Would rather whip it off and port it. Im in a pretty good position to do so through work so may aswell do it untill i can afford some proper management.Engine Management is the way to go, ecu or stand alone, the exhaust is letting it breath better so now you are hitting fuel cut, you running fmic an what you running .8,.9??I ran .9 on standard ecu and exhaust, ran fine when i fitted the blitz ecu but started creeping once i fitted the free flowing system So ended up porting then putting the tongs on and hold 1 bar all day long John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TBDevelopments Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 when i fitted my power fc it was the best thing i did. gives you piece of mind against the fuel cut and i'm still not a fan of the piggyback setup to overcome map related fuelcut TimTB Developments Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Socks Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 plug n play ecu is defo the way to go for your setup liam!race-tech bore out the hole and fit a bigger penny for £100 too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Right so what your saying is i need a ECU? Might price one up and start saving! Boooo!! Will just porting the wastegate do the job or would i definatly need a ECU too? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 You may still get creep with a ported wastegate (I do a little), but an ECU will be able to fuel it even if you do get creepTrust us, these ECUs are simply awesome you'll be glad you bought one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Might try and find a decent ECU set-up for sale then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Socks Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Right so what your saying is i need a ECU? Might price one up and start saving! Boooo!! Will just porting the wastegate do the job or would i definatly need a ECU too?a plug n play ecu will allow u to reach over 200bhp on stock engine and turbo...raise your rev limit, remove top speed limiter and remove fuel cut...the ct9's wasgate penny is too small.. porting it DIY will help but not solve the issue...Only way to solve it is to get the hole bored out and a larger penny fitted...they dont usually creep more then 1.1bar-1.2bar unless its silly cold outside.... so with an ecu that would be ok... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TBDevelopments Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 as long as you stay under fuel cut then you'll be fine to throw what you want at it. stock ecu has fueling and ignition maps for under fuel cut.so if you can solve your boost creep issues to under fuel cut you don't need a better ecu, not unless you want more power and more boost in the futureTimTB Developments Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nanglebadger Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 a JAM FCD will do your car no harm as long as its all set up properly dude, checked over with a wideband etc.bear in mind i have been running a Blitz K1 at 0.95 bar with a fuel pressure regulator and a JAM FCD. an ECU is a cleaner and safer way of doing it, but who says an FCD cant be done? I've been doing it for almost a year with no issue.Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukEp Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 My blitz ecu is for sale Liam check for sale section. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TBDevelopments Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 didn't say it can't be done its just really a bad way to do it.Ok fuel cut defenders work in 2 ways. they either add a resistance into the map sensor voltage so the map sensor never really sees its true reading and never hits fuel cut. or it clamps the voltage just under 0.8bar.either way the ecu needs to see an accurate voltage from the map sensor to calculate air/fuel ratio, plus because ignition advance/retard map is worked out on rev again pressure alternations to the map current affects timing advance as well.so now you know FCD will mess up the ignition curve, look at how you correct this. ignition you can't do anything about it. Fueling you add a fuel pressure regulator and increase the base fuel pressure which delivers more fuel across the whole range because they now flow more than the ecu thinks they do. So yes you get the fueling about right at topend over the fuel cut level, but then overfuels all down the rev range. and on cruise/idle when it goes into closed loop 02 feedback the ecu is constantly chasing its own tail because the injectors aren't doing what the ecu knows they will do when they come from the factory.Only way to really do this properly is to fit a piggyback like a greddy emanage and setup it up on the laptop (not quick correction adjustments on the front) and let the stock ecu do everything upto 0.8bar and then let the piggyback do the 0.8bar upwards (fueling wise) but again still not a fan of this as emanages are known the creep with age. numbers in the map don't always equal the same fuel flow year down the line as they were mapped. Seen this quite a lot when i used to use them on the 3sgte engines.Ideal way i found was to just drop a standalone onto the car and be done with it. Your not fooling anything or letting the stock ecu work away and then correcting everything its not doing right etc etc. Just tell the standalone ecu what you want and it'll do it.or the other way like someone has said, those blitz/jam ecu's which are just an eprom chip to remove the fuel cut. there not ideal either but better than the FPR trick. there designed for jap fuel and therefor very advanced on the timing to get more power so you might want to drop base timing back a degree or 2. but atleast get everything checked on a RR with a nice set of det cans. Only misconception with these is they do NOT self map like I've seen written on here so many times. No ecu can self map, only one that comes close is a £2000 motec unit that just sets up a rough base map for the customer on initial startup. a tweek stock ecu won't do this.TimTB Developments Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whiteglanzav Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 i saw this car yesterday and its properly clean as fook i love it !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
string Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 why go for the ecu that stops fuel cut and makes timing aggressive at 600. when ya could get the emb u said at 250. map for 210 and its perfect for ya car and mods. plus ya save 140 for a nice 2nd hand mani Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liam_D Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Hmm plans have changed now, think im just going to turn the Actuator down a turn and run it like that. As it appears to be only just hitting fuel cut. Hopefully that works. Want to get the brakes and wheels/tyres sorted out before more engine mods. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nanglebadger Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Tim - i wasnt aiming the "who said it cant be done" comment at yourself, was more of a general statement. I agree with what you have said, yes an FCD isn't the best way to do it, although the JAM ones appear a safer method than the HKS ones, as you explained, clamping Vs tricking.i personally would rather run a Blitz ECU than my present set-up of a JAM FCD and a fuel pressure reg. no doubt a motec would be immense, but unfortunately the project budget doesnt quite extend that far lol.Liam - turning the actuator down is definately the best place to start for now dude, fuel cut isn't worth that extra 0.5 bar of boost! keep her safe bro!Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.