Jump to content

Stu

Member
  • Content count

    1082
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Stu

  • Rank
    Boosting a Starlet

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Zealand

Recent Profile Visitors

4077 profile views
  1. Stu

    Cleeves ep70 turbo build

    Have you got the throttle body air and water lines around the right way? They usually run rough as shit if they are wrong.
  2. Sure is! Im super stoked I got hold of it. Trying to get the engine back in this week but running out of time with a few other things on. Will update when its done.
  3. Didn't think anyone read this any more Its this thing. Facelift Levin, slightly tweaked 16v with some headers and HKS bits, T50 5 speed (possibly close ratio), LSD etc. Im currently tidying it up
  4. Stu

    Wideband

    I really rate the innovate stuff. I use either an Innovate LM1 or LM2 when running customers cars - these are a stand alone controller so you need a window bracket etc to hold them while driving. The LM1 is very old but rock solid and very very reliable. Ive had it on the dyno and run parallel to much more expensive motec systems and while its not quite at the same level it certainly holds its own. The LM2 has a few known issues but I have personally yet to have any issues. As a stand alone I have used the MTXL in a couple of cars, and a LC1/LC2 if you don't need a screen and feeding straight to an aftermarket ecu. All seem to work pretty well. Ive also used a couple of AEM stand alone units but one of them had issues and after a long process was eventually replaced.
  5. Stu

    Running in fresh engine

    Engine run in is a contentious issue and everyone has there own take on it. If you've had the engine built by an engine builder, then i would suggest talking to them first as they may have their own method that they require you to follow, which will help avoid later arguments if anything should anything go wrong. If you've done it yourself then you can use any method you like. I know a couple of specialist engine builders who drag race at very high level (Robbie at RIPS) who recommend a hard run in right from the outset so I have always followed my own version of that approach (albeit not as hard as they do) and in many years of doing it I've never had any issues - some of my old engines are still going strong 15 years on. I start with a couple of heat cycles running 30 mono weight run in oil and straight water coolant - I've heard of the occasional engine having head gasket issues when running glycol. So start up and run the engine without letting it sit at idle or sit a constant rpm for too long. It depends on the engine but on a 4e/5e/4age I range from something like 800-4500rpm range as an example. By having free rev accel and decel it allows both edge of the rings to bed in. I do this from cold till operating temp then turn it off and let it cool back to ambient before doing it again. I like to keep the tune lean to avoid bore wash preventing proper ring bed in - I often turn off cold start enrichment in the tune. Once the heat cycles are done I head straight to a quick drive with low boost and lots of accel and decel. Key thing again is to get the tune good as fast as possible and try to avoid running at a constant rpm or idle for too long. My 4agte had 6psi and 8000rpm within the first 5-10km with good afr's but conservative timing. After 30km or so I drop the mono weight oil, cut the filter apart and have a good look at whats going on. If all is ok I run a normal weight mineral oil next with a decent zinc content then run for say 200km before again dropping the oil and checking the filter again. Third oil change is usually synthetic and my intended normal oil then game on with the tune and the intended boost level. The tune being on point is key. There's so many different opinions but I know what works for me and the type of engines I use. I like the short interval oil changes which give you any tell tales of issues and not being a nana. But have a chat to a couple of local engine builders and see what they recommend as well. Getting as many opinions as possible then make a decision based on your own gut feeling is key. Good luck!
  6. Stu

    Standalone Help! DTA

    Your teeth count should be 24 not 12 - well unless the dizzy has been mucked with
  7. Last month I took this thing out on a cruise to a Japanese Nostalgia meet that's held every year. Threw the kids in the car and went along to check out some other cool cars from the era. Super fun day, the car ran pretty good and drew a bit of attention. One of my work colleagues brought along his tidy 4agte Levin which I have since dyno tuned for him - super simple un-opened small port 4age with a gt2860 (Stock S15 turbo) and a Link Atom. Managed to run a very conservative 160kw on a touch under 12psi. In other news, Ive got a new turbo on order for the starlet and also have bought an AE86 so will set that up as a nice simply street package for now.
  8. Well had this thing out earlier this month and gave it a good thrashing at the track and it ran faultlessly and Im super happy. It was a pretty hot day and unfortunately the track was quite slippery so I wasn't able to get a good time in but was super happy with how it ran. I was running full interior and full exhaust for the day and didn't use boost per gear or launch control as I ran out of time to configure it all. But it was still a great day with friends and netted a best time of the day of 12.5 on a 2.8 60ft @ 120mph - yes it was that bad off the line. I tried all sorts of different launch rpm and even went back to launching in 1st which I don't normally do. Best 60ft I ran was 2.19 and that was after a big 2nd/3rd gear burnout to get the tires super hot. I think I need to get more savage on the burnout to get the tires really hot, then also give them a quick scuff before staging. Ive been too pussy on the burnouts as I'm worried about drive train but it seems to be holding so may as well try next time. I was looking back at the notes on the setup when I ran the 11.8@121mph and I was running the side pipe and it was a night event. I've got an idea the exhaust is a slightly restriction so I think the next step will be to finally build a 3 inch exhaust as its currently running 2.5inch with a muffler and reso. Ive also got a new turbo on order so that should wake it up a bit, plus im piecing together a 8.9:1 bottom end as this one is 8.0:1 so a little lazy. I'm going for a good responsive package rather than outright power. Anyway, here's some photos:
  9. The ign switch wire popped out of the alternator plug so it wasn't charging properly, all sorted now. This thing eats alternators for some reason.
  10. Cheers mate! Yeah I'll post more data after this weekends event. Im using a customised C56 - its got some hybrid parts in it and a few custom machined bits and pieces.
  11. Ah right, I forgot about those ones. I'd just check out that exhaust housing size compared to the old unit.
  12. I part own a dyno now so will eventually get it strapped down and figure out what the power and torque curves look like. Starting to get a bit nervous about drive train holding up.
×