Stu

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  1. Electric power steering pump help

    That's a square wave output from the red switch inside the gauge cluster. The output is not super clean (I've data logged it before) but might work :)
  2. Electric power steering pump help

    You can used a delay timed relay - fairly easy.  Which PS unit are you using? Most seem to have a speed input so that they vary the amount of assist so you don't lose road feel
  3. ME221 EP91 ECU

    I'm in Auckland
  4. need help with wiring emange blue on ep91.

    Same deal, just look at pin ID's not pin locations.
  5. ME221 EP91 ECU

    Hopefully you can get your refund.  Definitely look at a Link though, just wire it into the factory harness piggy backing the factory ecu so it runs everything but the factory ecu keeps the auto shifting etc.
  6. Morgey's 20v SR

    Add turbo
  7. Haha yeah he loves it I got it from a company called Robinson Instruments.  The factory output sensor output isnt that clean, it jumps around enough at low/mid speeds that I wasn't confident it would give me a good enough signal to base the boost tables on, Ive got a datalog of it somewhere.  The new sensor is amazing by comparison and Ive now got gear identification setup and am just starting to muck around with boost per gear and boost per speed overlay tables. 
  8. Just ask on the NZSC facebook page dude, there was a couple that came up recently. I
  9. I haven't really touched this thing since last year except I took my youngest son to playgroup in it last week. So other than driving it a bit I've been working on better ways to control the boost.  Looking back at the log for the 11.81@121mph run its pretty obvious that almost zero fucks were given to actually getting off the line nicely.  The launch was in 2nd gear and consisted of a rev limit clutch drop with no change in boost setting through the run - the peak boost was 17.3psi. So since the Link I run is pretty powerful I hooked up the speed signal from the factory reed switch that is inside the factory EFI (Si or Turbo S) gauge cluster.  In a factory scenario this is used for an ecu triggered speed cut. Unfortunately at mid speeds the signal isnt very clean so wouldnt be any good for an accurate speed input.  So I bought one of these. Its a speed sensor intercept that fits between the gearbox speedo take off and the cable the runs up to the dash.  This is a hall effect sensor so will be accurate at any speed and I just need to wire it into my ecu (signal ground, 12v supply and digital input to the ecu).  That way I can setup gear identification so the ecu will know what gear i'm in, and from that I can setup boost per gear and boost per speed tables.  So I can essentially run a lower boost setting in 1st (not that I launch in 1st) and 2nd, then have a progressive curve in 3rd by the top of third and whatever I need in 4th/5th. Here it is installed:   The ultimate goal here is to improve on traction and hopefully get the 60ft down to under 2.1 which isn't that great.  If I can improve the 60ft down to say 1.9 or even 1.85 then thats at least 2-2.25sec off at the other end if not more without adding more power.  Adding more power is also on the cars though and I will be retuning the engine back up to and over the current peak of 18psi that Ive had it on before.   Next meet I will try to make is on the 23rd of March which is a Friday night meet when air temps are usually cooler so all things going well it should be back in the 11's. More on other changes soon.
  10. EP82 box will work.  Infact almost any C series gearbox from behind an e series engine will work if you get desperate.
  11. Base timing can also greatly effect isle speed. Have you set the distributor to base 10 degrees while in diagnostoc mode?
  12. I use a spare inner cv cup that ive welded a piece of flat bar and a nut to and use a torque wrench on that. I can't remember the actual preload but I found this with a quick google http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=283040    
  13. td04 on 5efhe

    The factory ecu does run quite rich from standard so you should be ok on the fueling side, at worst fit a 1:1 fuel pressure reg and slightly bump the base fuel pressure to help.  From all the setups ive seen with stock ecu and bigger turbo, they all seem to be lean as the boost comes on but quickly richen up.  Its not ideal but there's not alot you can do with the stock ecu. Key thing though is monitoring the state of tune (i'd highlight this if I could).  A wideband check is absolutely mandatory and definitely use a detset to check for knock. I would probably start at say 6 degrees base and check then slowly advance as long as there isnt any knock. Good fuel ie 98 would definitely help.  Ive had plenty of setups through with dead stock unopened 5efe and 5efhe engines but with aftermarket ecus and after a good tune have happily sat on 14psi for years.  Even a forged engine with a crap tune will end in engine failure.  The fastest EP in New Zealand ran an 11.75 quarter mile on a standard 5e with stock 4e pistons but had some head work and a very good ecu and tune. Good luck and feel free to ask if you need more info.
  14. Injectors and fpr

    Get something with a good spray pattern - ie Siemens units.