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About Stu

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  • Location New Zealand

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  1. Haha yeah he loves it I got it from a company called Robinson Instruments.  The factory output sensor output isnt that clean, it jumps around enough at low/mid speeds that I wasn't confident it would give me a good enough signal to base the boost tables on, Ive got a datalog of it somewhere.  The new sensor is amazing by comparison and Ive now got gear identification setup and am just starting to muck around with boost per gear and boost per speed overlay tables. 
  2. Just ask on the NZSC facebook page dude, there was a couple that came up recently. I
  3. I haven't really touched this thing since last year except I took my youngest son to playgroup in it last week. So other than driving it a bit I've been working on better ways to control the boost.  Looking back at the log for the 11.81@121mph run its pretty obvious that almost zero fucks were given to actually getting off the line nicely.  The launch was in 2nd gear and consisted of a rev limit clutch drop with no change in boost setting through the run - the peak boost was 17.3psi. So since the Link I run is pretty powerful I hooked up the speed signal from the factory reed switch that is inside the factory EFI (Si or Turbo S) gauge cluster.  In a factory scenario this is used for an ecu triggered speed cut. Unfortunately at mid speeds the signal isnt very clean so wouldnt be any good for an accurate speed input.  So I bought one of these. Its a speed sensor intercept that fits between the gearbox speedo take off and the cable the runs up to the dash.  This is a hall effect sensor so will be accurate at any speed and I just need to wire it into my ecu (signal ground, 12v supply and digital input to the ecu).  That way I can setup gear identification so the ecu will know what gear i'm in, and from that I can setup boost per gear and boost per speed tables.  So I can essentially run a lower boost setting in 1st (not that I launch in 1st) and 2nd, then have a progressive curve in 3rd by the top of third and whatever I need in 4th/5th. Here it is installed:   The ultimate goal here is to improve on traction and hopefully get the 60ft down to under 2.1 which isn't that great.  If I can improve the 60ft down to say 1.9 or even 1.85 then thats at least 2-2.25sec off at the other end if not more without adding more power.  Adding more power is also on the cars though and I will be retuning the engine back up to and over the current peak of 18psi that Ive had it on before.   Next meet I will try to make is on the 23rd of March which is a Friday night meet when air temps are usually cooler so all things going well it should be back in the 11's. More on other changes soon.
  4. EP82 box will work.  Infact almost any C series gearbox from behind an e series engine will work if you get desperate.
  5. Base timing can also greatly effect isle speed. Have you set the distributor to base 10 degrees while in diagnostoc mode?
  6. I use a spare inner cv cup that ive welded a piece of flat bar and a nut to and use a torque wrench on that. I can't remember the actual preload but I found this with a quick google    
  7. td04 on 5efhe

    The factory ecu does run quite rich from standard so you should be ok on the fueling side, at worst fit a 1:1 fuel pressure reg and slightly bump the base fuel pressure to help.  From all the setups ive seen with stock ecu and bigger turbo, they all seem to be lean as the boost comes on but quickly richen up.  Its not ideal but there's not alot you can do with the stock ecu. Key thing though is monitoring the state of tune (i'd highlight this if I could).  A wideband check is absolutely mandatory and definitely use a detset to check for knock. I would probably start at say 6 degrees base and check then slowly advance as long as there isnt any knock. Good fuel ie 98 would definitely help.  Ive had plenty of setups through with dead stock unopened 5efe and 5efhe engines but with aftermarket ecus and after a good tune have happily sat on 14psi for years.  Even a forged engine with a crap tune will end in engine failure.  The fastest EP in New Zealand ran an 11.75 quarter mile on a standard 5e with stock 4e pistons but had some head work and a very good ecu and tune. Good luck and feel free to ask if you need more info.
  8. Injectors and fpr

    Get something with a good spray pattern - ie Siemens units.
  9. Here's a vid of my wife driving   And another quick vid of the day I found which has a couple of launches  
  10. So I got reeaaaaally busy with customers builds which left getting the starlet ready to only a few days before the meet I wanted to make it to.  The head had a complete overhaul and I fitted some new TRD valve springs I've had for a while, relapped all the valves, checked seats and tolerances etc.  Also while the engine was apart I checked the oil pump and the mains etc and everything looks great.  After a few very late nights I had the engine complete and fitted with a whole heap of ARP bolts etc. Next I got into building a new gearbox - not that there is anything wrong with the current one, other than its running a helical LSD and I prefer the clutch type lsd.  So I was aiming to build another c56, but this time with my new cusco rs lsd and then keep the helical fitted box as a spare. Eventually I will build a c52 with the longer ratios for track work but thats a fair way off being needed. The donor box looked good and I got most of the way through the job and realised I didnt have new diff bearings to fit.  So with only 48hrs till I had to be at the track I ended up giving the original gearbox a once over and putting the car back together with that instead.  I'll finish the clutch type box over the next few weeks and swap it over as its only a 45min job. Anyway, at 1.30am the morning of the event the car lwas loaded on the trailer with a only a quick road test on 6psi under its belt. The day is by far my favourite race meet each summer with such good people, very relaxed atmosphere, good banter and plenty of track time, so was definitely worth the effort. It wasn't without its dramas though, first run had one of the gearbox linkages come off after the first gear change. For the second run I bogged the launch as I was still taking it easy on the setup at 6psi and didn't quite have the grunt to launch in 2nd like I usually do. Third run I launched in 1st still at 6psi and it hooked up great with a 2.260ft but about mid track saw the external wastegate vent pipe come loose and bounce out from under the car which was good for a laugh but did take a couple of hours to fix.  I put these issues to down to rushing to get the car back together  Luckily I managed to get the pipe and clamp from the side of the track but the vband flange on the pipe was bent and the bolt to the vband had done a runner. so it took a while to fix. Eventually ran a couple of 13.4-13.6 runs which is pretty good for low boost - 6psi.   After lunch I bogged the launch again in the first round of DYO so threw the keys to my wife for the rest of the afternoon who went on to run a 15.5 after a 3 runs! Pretty impressive given she has never driven it before let alone race and the clutch is a savage to get used to.   Alistair had his 7agte KE20 out and ran pretty consistently in the low 13's on street tires and low boost.  This thing will run 11s on good tires.   Matt ran his 4agte 86 to a new personal best in the high 12's on street tires  Karl had a few issues but had good track time on his 4agte KE70   And Joe ran his diesel NA TD42 Nissan Safari pre the upcoming turbo conversion we will be doing so it will be interesting to see the improvements next year - all in all a very cool day!   Thanks heaps to Karl and Matt from Garage Dori, my brother Ryan for helping with the final prep, and all the guys for the banter on the day.
  11. Best coilovers

    Im running 8kg front, 6kg rear but have had customers cars in with 6kg/4kg.  You can spec any spring rate you want.  I just checked and the current retail price is $1,869.00nzd plus tax from the local agent.  
  12. Best coilovers

    Fortune Auto.  Full digressive shocks, amazing road feel and adjustability.  By far the best Ive driven on including Bilstein, Koni, BC, D2, Yellowspeed etc etc.  Not cheap though.  
  13. Gearbox mounts