turbominicooper

was one of these - http://www.thespectruminternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Mitutoyo-Outside-micrometer-Mechanical-1.jpg

right so ive had the crank out and had it looked over by a local engineer and he does not think there is any damage to the crank. we measured the journals with a micrometer and the results were: big 1 - 39.95 big 2 - 39.97 big 3 - 39.97 big 4 - 39.94 mains - all 46.99 main 1 main 2 main 3 main 4 main 5 this is the condition of the no.1 big journal in question from the above videos: under engine shots: sorry about the picture heaviness so what do we think now? crank polish and a new set of genuine bearings and thrust washers

hmmmm ill have a look but dont want to b waiting till xmas with this cheers

nice one onion ill have a look at them. cheers

Hi all. looking for a decent rated mainland based company that has experience on the starlet scene to either just check over and polish a crank or possibly to regrind also. Anyone specific people use on here? Could also have future evo motor work to include valve seats, line boring, port, polish and flows heads etc if good. cheers

Who do people rate as competent machinists (mainland based) for the work?

Yuh i did say I've probably just added 50k miles to them by doing that. Annoying thing now is its not a simple shell replace and that it will need further stripping then what it had before!

It's time vs being arsed that's my drawback lol

Yeh everything lubed and torqued up. so looks like engine out job then... nightmare

So what do we think just install some new prob genuine shells or still need get crank out?

right so had them all off (apart from the mains) and here is what they look like: no.1 no.2 no.3 no.4

so ive managed to whip everything off and check mine and it does not look/sound like the problem in JDMfreak's video. When i wiggled the conrod bearings front to back (same as video) there is no clonking noise however there is a slight wiggle from side to side but id imagine thats normal for a cold engine no? there is also a scuffing noise coming from the auto flywheel area when i turn the engine but i doubt that would cause the severe noise coming from the sump like shown in my first video. whats ppls thoughts re: the bottom end being gone? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btUsvrLO534

It's all about what's local and most things starlet wise are scarce. I'm not on the mainland u see so gonna cost a bomb postage whatever the scenario will b cheaper to get mine fixed I think. Next oversize is +0.25 is that right?

how much roughly is a regrind?

well this is pants

is there a possible scenario here where I can just replace the bearing (if that's the problem) without having to get the crank reground etc...

are you thinking its not the bottom end? saying that I haven't seen the engine management light on but thinking either way im gonna take the sump off and have a good look. checked plugs yesterday and all were of a healthy color

Ffs , will have to have a good look this weekend.

worst sound ever lol dont think ive got a screwdriver that long tbh, is it easier just to whip the sump off and have a wiggle form underneath? im pretty sure it is the bearings and yuh like you mentioned i did have that issue where they were really tight. dont think its the auto as the car moves easily enough.

im thinking its got to be the bearings so could do with clarification: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rmn1WI4cQpU history is: built this motor fresh and havent even driven it yet. used ACL bearings plastigauged them - put motor together using torque spec. however... i had shit loads of auto gearbox problems so ive had the box on and off about 20 times, starting it each time. like ive said above havent actually driven it yet so its just idled which i know isnt good but couldnt be helped. cheers

anyone got images of what way round the auto flywheel should be and what side each spacer goes on. my way of thinking is: (block side) flat spacer, then flywheel (raised bit against flat spacer) followed by the spacer with curved edge (edge pointing at torque converter) - is that right? cheers ryan

if ac is removed bridge pins. check thermostat... if its stuck open fan will constantly spin. check wires to thermo housing, a corroded cable on the thermo will cause it to spin constantly. check fan relay and replace if necessary.

so for the oil pump I believe the torque setting is meant to be 21nm - does this sound right? also 65nm for the case bolts?

^

whats the torque settings for part 35370 in this diagram? cheers