morgey

Can you confirm if they are single or twinpot calipers? looking at pics online they dont look like either st165 or 185 celica gt4 calipers and st205 are completely different. They could be celica st202 ones or if twinpots mr2 and ae111s use the same slider pins

If theyre celica twinpots they will be st165. But you also get ae111 levin twinpots or mr2 sw20 twinpots. You can try and run the part numbers through toyodiy.com and see if they use the same sliders to narror down if theyre different or not

Id imagine that was on stock supplied springs, I've only been in a civic on meisters but that was on par with my car for stiffness but not a fair comparison haha. Id price up shocks and springs vs coils. My price was on my corolla but parts prices are very similar, but the bcs on my corolla are 100x smoother than on my starlet. Most people dont even realise its on coilovers haha. But the corolla is on 6/4s and so is my starlet which is why i think the starlet would be better on 5/3s as its a few 100kgs lighter

6/4 were the stock option when i bought mine. However they did allow you to spec different springs for free when i got mine. Not sure if thats still the case or not. If you're not sure i would see if you could go out for a ride in a car with coilovers. Changing the damping settings does make a noticable difference too but the spring is always the limiting factor

I run Bc's got mine 5 odd years ago and have 6f/4r springs and do find it a tad hard on the road but i dont mind as its not my daily drive and its more suitable for when i decide to go on track. If it was a daily id opt for 5f/3r springs. When i priced up decent shocks (kyb ultra Sr) plus new top mounts then my choice of spring i was within £50 of a set of coilovers with fix damping and no camber adjustment.

Its definitely an option. You would want to brace the manifold back to the block though and im not sure if theres earths on the chamber that would need relocating. Or you could get it welded back together which would be a better option for rigidity. Or the other option, you could stick some bike throttlebodies on instead. A few guys have run triumph tt600 throttles on stock management.

Best be quick but some on facebook

I always had a read up on it. Got a link to your other thread?

The list of people that have said this 😂 I've had it so long i dont know if ill ever sell it now haha

Neither. Get an N/A, fun for days as its cheap lol

Obvious ones. Is the Alternator creating 12v + belt slipping Battery condition You could take the positive terminal off the batt, put a multi meter across (dc Mamps) the batt terminal and the cable and that should show you a draw of a few miliamps From that point go around popping out fuses until that figure drops to 0 or very close to. Your clock, radio, interior light, headlights and alarm will have permanent lives so id start with them.

I just cut my high pressure side then looped the low pressure side and cable tied it to the metal collar on the HP side. I wasnt going to need mine again so thats why i did that. I have seen some honda boys fit a small resivior in the loop so the rack is alway full...

I know its a joke but people say this stuff then the next thing you know everyone believes it 😂

You're always going to have people saying its an insurance job after something like this, untill the report comes out and they say its arson etc its just speculation. Either way i know id be seriously pissed off if my car was in there and it turned out to be an insurance job! Lol

Noticed where the bump strip was taken off and refitted its not quite level so need to whip that off and refit it otherwise the Sr decal might not fit properly. Also the quarter that was painted needs to be buffed up some more so will probably take it back and have them touch it up but will try and bring it up with some polish first! However i really like how its sitting now and its nice that i can actually drive it even if its not on the road yet haha. Job hunt will be commencing soon so will be able to get it on the road when im back in employment, tax and test first. Then needs to go in for alignmemt then will be time to enjoy it

From what I've seen the toyota oem (helical) is the same unit as the trd helical, like that that stu linked, Either that or i got very lucky and got 2 trd lsd's in both by boxes lol

I didnt buy a new one haha. Was about £75 with plugs and 6" of cable

Thats a savage looking motor

Thats the one I've got. Has a ecu attached to it. Theres a few different wiring guides jotted about online. PUMP ASSY, VANE 44310-17050

I had looped lines and didnt enjoy it, i live in the country with lots of twisty roads so you noticed it a fair amount. I've put an mr2 electric pump on mine, only driven it a few miles but its now too light, im going to wire it in to my speed signal to see if that makes any difference. Failing that i might try putting a restrictor in the feed line to reduce the pressure if possible

Normally once you submit your order thet will reply with any parts that aren't available.

Usually fairly quick can get held up this end a bit sometimes

Mine hasnt changed haha

On toyodiy it has a 5 digit then the part title. But beneath the 5 digit is a 10 digit number thats the part num you need

Just get a solid prop section made up. Only thing you may want to consider is the diff might not hold up to the extra load going to it.