morgey

Welcome along. If you want a rep you might be able to buy new from idworkz

Why take it out if you dont need too? Theres only about 5 wires that need splicing into to get it working with the NA dash. Then you keep your height adjustment on the headlights and any other odds that are different between the two.

Thanks, or are you talking about the tarp covering my brother civic? Haha But tbh considering its a £15 can of paint im fairly happy with the results. Im not great with painting as im not patient enough with it and have to do it outside with flys,bugs and shit blowing everywhere. 1st time was bugs 2nd attempt was impatience and it got a few runs

Decided to fit my wrinkle painted rocker cover, its not perfect by any means but its good to get an idea of what it will look like when i do another one and get it right, for now I'll let the pictures do the talking...

Haha yeah i know the feeling, advantage of doing it with dash loom in situe is things like the headlight adjusters etc will all work, you wont need the indicator stalks, dash cluster etc and all the other stuff that might be wired up slightly differently isn't touched so isnt an issue. I know my situation was slightly different with a 20v but its the same principle.

Cheers for the feedback and sorry again for the mixup haha. Now lets see some updates

They really aren't that bad, run the loom and ecu in, plug all the engine wiring in the look ats whats left, its really not that much. From that point just take your time and constult people. I helped ep70 (joao) over facebook sort out a couple of his wiring niggles and I've never dealt with a 4efte.

Both conversions i did i left the dash and oem bay fusebox in the car. Just spliced the engine loom into them where required. Theres only about 12-15 wires that really need intergrating as most of the engine side of things runs directly to the ecu with only a few going to the cluster (eml, oil, speed, rpm), fuel pump is separate and then a power and earth but the power might come from the bay fuse box anyway. Bay box will be starter and alternator cable, power to ecu, and a few for some ancillaries iirc. Ep70-pt (french lad) did his this way i believe.

Most modern synthetic oils can handle operating at 120deg and upwards, millers 10w60 nano tech wont start breaking down till 140+ so as long as your temp gauge doesnt sky rocket your oil should remain fairly stable.

You could always cruise down some of the straights if youre a bit paranoid. Get a bit of nice cool air coming through whilst not pushing the engine hard would help. Is the oil new or will it be? Its not going to be much worse than a 15 minute track session. Give it time to run down and get cool air through it all on the home straight and i think it would be fine.

Theres a few ways you can do it, just depends on your budget and overall goals for the car, if you're going stripped and track focused then drivablility isnt really key so you can have a mad engine in there. For me I would always prefer my car to be used as a daily and not get on my nerves at any stage so would opt for a much milder engine just because it means its easier to manage on a daily basis. Not that you couldnt daily a hicomp forged 20v lol

Haha yeah thats more like it, i had mine off the clock as an n/a with a good amount of rpm left. A gearbox doesnt have a limit as such its just the speed youll reach max rpm in top gear. Raise the rpm your top speed will increase

N/a box does more than 110mph with the 4efe 6200rpm limit, another 1300rpm will be way past that.

Keri, the admin might be trying something similar but not sure if its possible yet, fingers crossed though. Whitenoize, i agree completely, i put it off for so long only to find out its really easy to use and great for keeping ontop of multiple forums you're on. I will be purchasing the ad free version when im back in employment lol

Its £1.95 actually 😛

Id reccomend tapatalk if you're on a mobile, can do direct from phone uploads. Or if you use a laptop/PC imgur or tinypic seems to be a good site.

20v paseo you say?

Sort the o2 sensor out, then id look at your intake temp sensor and coolant temp sensor if it thinks things are at different temperatures it can cause over fueling. Not sure on the proper procedure for testing the temp sensor but im sure someone will

If i were building a mild engine it would be. Skimmed silvertop or BT head both have advantages, ported and 3 angle valve job. Propably stock valves. Cams would be fast road of sorts amd springs to suit Trd 0.8mm HG Blacktop pistons Silvertop rods, shot peened and balanced to pistons Blacktop crank. Arp bolts throughout Crank girdle or cap supports Lightest flywheel you can find Ecu and mapped to 8500rpm ish. It wouldnt be anything crazy but around te 180hp mark depending on cam choice maybe a touch more. But it would be cheap and fairly reliable.

is your tank rusted and leaking or even the filler neck allowing fuel to spill out. This happened to mine.

I would probably send them an email, that looks like a build for fairly big power. The pistons are machined for oversized valves and lairy cams. See what else they would recommend to go with it, cam specs head work etc. They may say they will be fine with tomei poncams or mild kelford cams but they are definitely designed for an agressive engine setup Its Fine if you want to build for that but you will loose a bit of drivablility and low/midrange power. But your 200hp goal would be very achievable with that if you're willing to rev the engine and put in the supporting mods to go with it. (Cam

Yeah that would seem fairly accurate but if you bore out the engine then youll also reduce the compression slightly. According to info on their site a 0.5mm over bore drops the ratio about 0.35 If you run anything over 11.5:1 CR you will 100% want an ecu and a tune. You will also have to run it on premium fuel, but you should be doing that anyway with a 20v. The main reason i never bother building my old 16v engine was because of all the deciding factors to making a good engine. There wasnt any off the shelf engine packages that guaranteed 170hp-120lbft with good drivablility, you co

A lot of pistons come in various specs, theres a trd bible for 20v if you can find one online theres heaps of info in that i wouldnt look for the real thing as they fetch a few hundred quid lol. But They have good info building these engines invluding valve angles and all sorts if you ever wanted to get really involved. Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

You need to be a paid member to sell on here (£1.95 in the club store) and also need a minimum post count. Cars sales is 0 Parts is 50 General items 75 Breaking thread 150 As for the not replying im not sure if thats down to the restrictions on non paid members. You should be able to PM the seller if you want to buy something though Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk