crispyeel

Item For Sale: New Oil Temp Sensor Adaptor Item Condition & Description: Brand new and unfitted. Bought to allow temp sensor to be moved and allow for sensor for temp gauge but ended up going down the sandwich plate route instead Price: £8 + fees Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: Will post FOC to UK

Item For Sale: Blitz Super Sound Blow Off Valve Item Condition & Description: Used but in reasonable condition. Removed due to upgrading to HKS SSQV Price: £50 + fees Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: Will post FOC to UK

Item For Sale: CT9 intercooler hot pipe Item Condition & Description: Item is almost new. Was test fitted to my Glanza but due to Turbo change, this did not fit. Few lights scratches but other that this item is in great condition Price: £30 + fees Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: Paypal, Bank Transfer. Will post for free

Thanks mate! Na the bottom hose was pretty much resting on the screamer initially. I ran it for a few days with the hose wrapped in exhaust heat wrap but I didn't want to leave it like that long term incase the pipe burnt through. Clears the screamer perfectly now I've not seen any other glanza's running a CT12 yet, everyone seems to go td04/td05 these days

As above, I am looking to purchase a new HKS SSQV for my Glanza. My problem is that I've been reading a lot about fake ones in circulation and wanted to make sure I get a genuine one Also is there a specific kit or adaptor that I would also need to buy as I can not see a application listing for the Glanza Thanks in advance

Bit of a random purchase but I quite like the look of them. Blue tow hook for the rear

Once the dyno and road session had been carried out, I was presented with my results......... 224bhp @1bar

I made the trip down to Tuning Developments after reading loads of feedback on the forums. As there was such a long journey down, I decided to book into a local premier inn so that I could arrive at the door bright and early and without any last minute dramas Mike greeted me on my arrival and quickly got to work on my Glanza Myself and my girlfriend made ourselves comfy and watched some TV while the work was being carried out A few hours later I heard the car being live mapped on the dyno... Being the big kid that I am, I had to go and watch... From the safety of the metal barrie

Been a while since I updated this thread. Quite a bit has changed since the last update Purchased a Greddy Profec boost controller so that I could safely control the boost for and after the mapping Also purchased some new blue silicone hoses to fit to the new radiator Radiator was a complete sod! Fitted perfectly apart from the bottom radiator hose fouling against the screamer pipe Decided to take the radiator back out and send it to a local welder to have the bottom outlet cut and moved over approx 4" to allow clearance of the screamer. Got the radiator back less that 48

I was there. Weather was horrendous! Every time I got my camera out the heavens opened! Did manage to get some good pics of all of the Starlet's together though

Is it just me or does the power seem low for a mapped td04 conversion? Awesome looking wee car though

Think I'm going to head along to this if the weather plays ball. Usually only take my glanza out when it's dry

PM'd

I wasn't actually bragging about hitting fuel cut. I was purely stating that with my setup, my car would hit fuel cut when I ran it on the high setting. At the time of running that setup I was exploring options to try and reduce fuel cut. Even before I set mine up to my description, I was getting boost creep and hitting fuel cut regularly due to my FMIC & air filter relocation, even with the HKS actuator wound back to stock psi setting. Personally I found that having the hi/low option reduced this drastically Not true. As I said above, I was exploring routes to reduce fuel cut

Fair enough but boost creep can still be a pretty nasty thing. Every so often wont cause too much issues but my thoughts on it are that if the car was supposed to boost to those levels, it would have done from the factory. Eventually something is gonna give and it'll more than likely cost you a lot more than an external wastgate

Cool! How much you want for the pair mate?

Got a tub of copper slip in the garage already but might use spray grease as its not as messy looking

Cool thanks guys! Whats best for greasing them? Just a multipurpose grease? Can get a spray grease cheap enough from my local motor factors

I had some serious issues with boost creep on my old setup. Standard CT9 turbo & manifold, HKS actuator, HDI FMIC & japspeed decat & catback I found that when I set the actuator to 0.8bar and plumbed the vacuum pipes so that I could still use the Hi/low solenoid, I could almost get away with running it on low boost with minimum boost creep. On Hi was a different story. Couldn't even put the foot down with out hitting the proverbial brick wall pretty violently every time Personally I would highly recommend going down the external wastgate route as I have done. Best move I ma

Might not be a bad idea that mate. They just sound like they are struggling a bit around half way up/down

I might be interested in these. Is there an 'off the shelf' seat rail that fits these or is it custom fabrication only?

As above really. Looking for drivers & passenger window motors for a 99 Glanza V. Mine are getting a bit tired and take a while to open/close the windows

I just bought a top & bottom rad hose set off eBay from demon motorsport, £39.99 with free shipping

Cool. Sits quite nicely there! I'll fit mine before mapping but leave it to the experts to set it up propely lol

Very straight forward to set this up. I was running mine like this before I fitted the ct12 The single pipe that goes from the actuator to the turbo, cut and use a t-piece. Run a pipe from the t-piece to your hi-low solenoid. Run a small second pipe from the solenoid but tuck it away and allow it to vent to atmosphere. Worked perfectly for me. I set my actuator to .8bar and when on low boost it would reduce boost creep issues on my old setup but when on hi was crazy. Hit cut most times when I accelerated hard