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Everything posted by SpikeyJp_68
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I'm wanting to remove the glass from my electric mirror as I'll be painting them. I've pulled at it relitivley hard thinking it would pop off but no joy. How do I get this to come off ? Also looking for drivers side glass as I've lost mine.. Thanks in advance
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I can get his PayPal details for you if you wish ?
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I find clarkes welders very good. The non-gas ones not so much but the bigger gas ones are nice and easy to set up and get a quality weld.
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I'll be sure to go to any drag meeting or stuff like that as its not really a holiday as such haha
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Someone on here got a fresh import for about 1250 minus shipping Rebuild the engine, new bearings, rings ect for roughly 250 pounds then it's as good as gold and will last another 20+ years if its well cared for. As for ringlands going, get it mapped by a reputable tuner, not a shitty fcd and rrfpr and stay well away from Rev-limiters
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I had one but sold it, don't see many come up. I'm sure they're only 15 pounds new from Toyota
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Pre facelift part number Or you can refurb them as shown on TGTT http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?103650-Front-glanza-badge-refurb-)
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If you're on Facebook look up dizzy decals. 17 pounds posted. Exact copy but carbon fiber effect. Can get not carbon ones also
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It's finding one that has been enthusiast owned. Keep an eye on here they come up for sale now and then. RobSR has one for sale which is cheap as chips concidering the spec list. You also get a lot of Hondas that have B-series engines and ragged to death but are still registered as a D14 or whatever. You'll get that in almost any car that is widely modified
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I've seen a couple of their threads and it seems to be a case of whatever they can get their hands on. The car scene in the Caribbean is quite different to over here
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I noticed I have very light swirl marks on my car most likely from me giving it a "quick wash" but this bugs me quite a bit as its only just had a respray. Is it a case of washing - claying - washing then some of that swirl remover stuff ? Also wax or sealant as I can't put my colour into a light or dark category Thanks in advance
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Found this for you, I'd imagine it's not to dis-similar to an ep91 http://www.tercelreference.com/articles/rear_brake_conversion/rear_brake_conversion.html
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Gainzy's JAM Glanza 09/08/2020 End
SpikeyJp_68 replied to Gainzy's topic in EP91 Glanza Progress Blogs
Was only thinking about this thread a few hours ago Looks good though mate -
Never mind a rebore, it's well over the 75mm serviceable limit !!
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Should be put in before removing the inlet cam and kept in until the camshafts are installed, timed and caps are torqued down
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Shame about the paintwork but still a good price for what looks to be a 100% original example
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Seen one of these on TGTT.. Selling because there was an awful constant whining noise coming from the top end and was too costly for him to maintain...
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Item For Sale: Universal stainless backbox Item Condition & Description: Very good condition overall, polishes up nicely. 1.75" inlet I beleive (same size as n/a exhaust) / 3.5" outlet Will need hangars making and welding onto your existing exhaust Price: 37 GBP posted to UK mainland incl. fees Pictures: Payment & shipping: Payment via PayPal, sent via An Post
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LHD 6P2 GLANZA from France - 4E-FTE IS COMING!
SpikeyJp_68 replied to EP70-PT's topic in EP91 Progress Blogs
Nice colour is that mate will be doing my winter wheels a similar colour -
Haven't forgotten about that picture, plan on getting it tomorrow
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It's easier to buy a full Glanza rear axle only a few bolts holding it on, it just depends on postage in your case
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That's it got them mixed up with ft-lbs. that's spot on, big thanks again Colin
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Has anyone tried kuhmo ecsta le sports ? Stick like fook in the dry once they've heated up.. Haven't aquaplaned either....
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Last question. Thread lock on the cam cap bolts or just assembly lube ? They're not torqued very tight at 9 n.m I'd be worried they'd come loose over time
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Thanks lads big help as always Will retention the cog when I get a 1/4" torque wrench as my 1/2 inch only goes to 23n.m Also debating whether or not to do valve stem seals. It would make sense whilst the head is out but involves buying another tool ontop of the numerous specialist tools I need to finish it..