Calum122

She been good to you whilst you've had it? I read you had a few problems but is that all sorted now.

No doubt you will. To be honest, if it's not the V it'll be the civic. So you can't win. As your name suggests, boost is addicitve Tell you what tough. The money you've spent on your V you could have had a monstrous K20 turbo. Dream engine

Okay not on TGTT but on other places people just recommended letting the sealant going off then torque it up. The stuff feels rock solid, fingers crossed it should seal. I spent a good afternoon cleaning the mating faces together. I've sealed engine cases together when building them so hopefully I've done it right. I know the sumps can be a bit of a mare

Aye. That's what I read on TGTT. Just fix it on. Starting with the bolts on the corners and work your way around. Let it go off then torque the bolts up. Don't tell me that's wrong?

I've let the sump stand for 24 hours. Just torqued up the bolts to 8.3 Nm, won't be driving it for a few weeks anyway. Some of the exhaust bolts were corroded and rounded off so I've got some new stainless bolts making their way to me. I'm a stainless addict I'm afraid. Massive fixings tray full of every nut and bolt, except the ones I actually need it would seem. But really handy on rebuilds. Just replace everything together. Get the exhaust back on next week. Won't be driving the car to Japfest I'm afraid as I just haven't tested it enough. Will be in a Toyota.....Yaris But hopefully I shall meet and greet some of you guys there next week. I'll be the one wearing the UKSO blueprint Tee

Oh mate...as soon as you drive it you'll know why you wanted a custom Starlet. My brother drove me to get my Starlet in his EP3. He test drove my Starlet and within the next month we took a flight to Ireland to pick himself up a Starlet and sold his beloved EP3 and never looked back lol. He loved his Civic as well, but as soon as he got into the retro EP82 he just fell in love with the whistles, boost and classiv vibe.

Or maybe the GT20 Kit???

Aww I've driven my brothers TD04 and it's totally different from a CT9. The power is bigger and better yes. But there is lag. But I suppose mine will probably get tiresome to drive after some time. Probably go WEPR Hybrid with Ram Horn Manifold and standalone then.

I was thinking Racetechs CT9 Hybrid for 230 Bhp with Ram horn manifold.

I've already done the head gasket and the pistons were mirror finished polished. Looked like in okay condition, mind you I won't claim to be a engine expert

Five months is a quick turnaround for the work you've done. It would be a shame to not drive it after all this hardwork. That would be a real waste of your time and money. I've been the same, had my car for 8 months and I've driven it 20 miles approx. It's been nothing but problems. But I've spent too much time on it to give in. Money is bollox at the end of the day. What's important is your time. There is only a limited amount of that, and you need to make the most of it. If you've spent 5 months making an animal of a car that you knows for a fact you're going to get the most out of, then make sure you do. When all is said and done, that car doesn't have to have any more money chucked at it. Let the bank balance sort itself out and finish it off at a later date. The end result will be worth it. So many people go down this rabbit hole, and I think you'll struggle to find someone that says it wasn't worth it! Best of luck mate

Yeah, I mean I was going to forge it anyway, and might still. I've got no idea on the condition really. The car generally has been absolutely battered so I bet that engine has taken some abuse. But I can't warrant forging, an already forged engine. So I'll wait for this to pop and then sort something out. But yeah, sounds promising. I think I have a little more confidence in the car now knowing that it has had some engine work to her

Aye she was a little rattley but I was just well you know 214K on the clock so it's bound to be! I'll check the dip stick a that wouldn't surprise me as to be one of the problems.

That looks like SO much FUN

Cheers lads. I read that tutorial on TGTT so hopefully fingers crossed. I bought that stuff I think you recommended Dan, 'ThreeBond' I think it's called. It's not leaking from the sump. So I'm thinking it's going to be the crankshaft seal. Which is gay cause I've just done the cam belt and it's all going to need redoing. Am I right in thinking the seal I want to change is going to be the one on the oil pump? And in which case that's going to be either in the block or on the pump itself. GT's are on the pump, but god knows if this is the original engine. For those of you that don't know, I bought a High Wycombe special I'm afraid. Has been nothing but trouble and money. I got it running the other week after 6 months of headaches. She drives spot on. Just the odd coolant leak and now this oil leak. I got ripped off on this motor. There wasn't any fancy Optional Extra's or what not and for the money you could have got a lot cleaner examples. It's my first car so I just fell into that trap. However, taking the sump off today...I've noticed this, these aren't stock are they? I'm under the impression they are ARP con rod bolts. Who would put ARP bolts on stock rods? So I took a closer look and I believe I'm right in saying that this engine is forged? Wasn't even sold as that. Was sold as boggo standard? If this is the case, I think these might be scat rods, the pistons look forged too, but without dismantling it all I won't be able to check what brand. As said, if they're forged then the jokes on those KNOBS that sold me the car. Told me it was fine when there have been a fair few problems I've had to fix with this. But finally this might be some good news.

Cheers matey. So tight and annoying lol. Thanks

Hi, Engine is leaking oil, I was hoping it was the sump and that it needed resealing, however after been under it all day I'm not convinced. I think It's going to be the crankshaft seal. But my question is, how do you remove the sump? Mine is on there well and truly! Can't even make it budge, and I imagine it isn't invincible so don't want to try too hard and damage something. Am I right in thinking it's just the nuts and bolts that surround the sump? What's the technique? Am I missing something. I've removed all the bolts around the flange but are there more? Any advice appreciated.

I'll vouch to say they do look bloody good considering what it is!

Car manufacturers need to step up their game. All these electrical goodies on the can bus network with unencrypted traffic, anyone can send a signal to unlock the doors by simple smashing out a rear cluster and tapping into the wire feed. New cars are too clever for their own good. Making them easier to steal in effect.

Yeah my brother has this same noise on his starlet. When hard locking

Top seller Well packaged well received Held on till payday. Respect

Looks nice

Ollie, guttering. I was always looking at that when it was at the cruise! That plate as well. Cause he had a Peugeot before didn't he? Uhh! guttering! What can we do?

Sound Smound. I'd rather a game like GT series with hundreds of cars, including our Starlets, realistic and fun than the noise being fixed.

Right sorry. Amazing what difference the ECU will make. I think 300 is ridiculous for these cars, dare I say too much?