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Calum122

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Everything posted by Calum122

  1. Calum122
    Haha! The buzz from this is amazing Look forward to Japfest tomorrow
  2. Calum122
    LOL! I rep the chavenwaggon round my way lmao! "Aww you car is so chavey" yeah but it's mint tho! Yeah that sucks. But that' their problem, not yours. Either you're a really good photographer, or your EP looks sweet I'm going to say the latter. I like the look of it. Just subtle.
  3. Calum122
    I just got the Bosch 4 year guarantee one. Seems legit. Just needed to recrimp new terminal ends since it's a UK battery and not a Jap Battery Went to europarts and typed in reg
  4. Calum122
    Aye, I see. I would have thought it will be slide one on first. Then go most negative, to try and slide the second needle through. From what I've read taking the needles off can be a right ball ache.
  5. Calum122
    Have you checked again to see if is it losing any coolant?
  6. Calum122
    Don't remove them. Just slide the dials over them through the hole.
  7. Calum122
    What a mare. I bet they're wishing they just done the bloody cam belt now. Serves them right. I hope they make a right loss because of this. Hopefully teach them a lesson.
  8. Calum122
    She been good to you whilst you've had it? I read you had a few problems but is that all sorted now.
  9. Calum122
    No doubt you will. To be honest, if it's not the V it'll be the civic. So you can't win. As your name suggests, boost is addicitve Tell you what tough. The money you've spent on your V you could have had a monstrous K20 turbo. Dream engine
  10. Calum122
    Okay not on TGTT but on other places people just recommended letting the sealant going off then torque it up. The stuff feels rock solid, fingers crossed it should seal. I spent a good afternoon cleaning the mating faces together. I've sealed engine cases together when building them so hopefully I've done it right. I know the sumps can be a bit of a mare
  11. Calum122
    Aye. That's what I read on TGTT. Just fix it on. Starting with the bolts on the corners and work your way around. Let it go off then torque the bolts up. Don't tell me that's wrong?
  12. Calum122
    I've let the sump stand for 24 hours. Just torqued up the bolts to 8.3 Nm, won't be driving it for a few weeks anyway. Some of the exhaust bolts were corroded and rounded off so I've got some new stainless bolts making their way to me. I'm a stainless addict I'm afraid. Massive fixings tray full of every nut and bolt, except the ones I actually need it would seem. But really handy on rebuilds. Just replace everything together. Get the exhaust back on next week. Won't be driving the car to Japfest I'm afraid as I just haven't tested it enough. Will be in a Toyota.....Yaris But hope
  13. Calum122
    Oh mate...as soon as you drive it you'll know why you wanted a custom Starlet. My brother drove me to get my Starlet in his EP3. He test drove my Starlet and within the next month we took a flight to Ireland to pick himself up a Starlet and sold his beloved EP3 and never looked back lol. He loved his Civic as well, but as soon as he got into the retro EP82 he just fell in love with the whistles, boost and classiv vibe.
  14. Calum122
    Or maybe the GT20 Kit???
  15. Calum122
    Aww I've driven my brothers TD04 and it's totally different from a CT9. The power is bigger and better yes. But there is lag. But I suppose mine will probably get tiresome to drive after some time. Probably go WEPR Hybrid with Ram Horn Manifold and standalone then.
  16. Calum122
    I was thinking Racetechs CT9 Hybrid for 230 Bhp with Ram horn manifold.
  17. Calum122
    I've already done the head gasket and the pistons were mirror finished polished. Looked like in okay condition, mind you I won't claim to be a engine expert
  18. Calum122
    Five months is a quick turnaround for the work you've done. It would be a shame to not drive it after all this hardwork. That would be a real waste of your time and money. I've been the same, had my car for 8 months and I've driven it 20 miles approx. It's been nothing but problems. But I've spent too much time on it to give in. Money is bollox at the end of the day. What's important is your time. There is only a limited amount of that, and you need to make the most of it. If you've spent 5 months making an animal of a car that you knows for a fact you're going to get the most out of, then
  19. Calum122
    Yeah, I mean I was going to forge it anyway, and might still. I've got no idea on the condition really. The car generally has been absolutely battered so I bet that engine has taken some abuse. But I can't warrant forging, an already forged engine. So I'll wait for this to pop and then sort something out. But yeah, sounds promising. I think I have a little more confidence in the car now knowing that it has had some engine work to her
  20. Calum122
    Aye she was a little rattley but I was just well you know 214K on the clock so it's bound to be! I'll check the dip stick a that wouldn't surprise me as to be one of the problems.
  21. Calum122
    That looks like SO much FUN
  22. Calum122
    Cheers lads. I read that tutorial on TGTT so hopefully fingers crossed. I bought that stuff I think you recommended Dan, 'ThreeBond' I think it's called. It's not leaking from the sump. So I'm thinking it's going to be the crankshaft seal. Which is gay cause I've just done the cam belt and it's all going to need redoing. Am I right in thinking the seal I want to change is going to be the one on the oil pump? And in which case that's going to be either in the block or on the pump itself. GT's are on the pump, but god knows if this is the original engine. For those of you that don't
  23. Calum122
    Cheers matey. So tight and annoying lol. Thanks
  24. Calum122
    Hi, Engine is leaking oil, I was hoping it was the sump and that it needed resealing, however after been under it all day I'm not convinced. I think It's going to be the crankshaft seal. But my question is, how do you remove the sump? Mine is on there well and truly! Can't even make it budge, and I imagine it isn't invincible so don't want to try too hard and damage something. Am I right in thinking it's just the nuts and bolts that surround the sump? What's the technique? Am I missing something. I've removed all the bolts around the flange but are there more? Any advice app
  25. Calum122
    I'll vouch to say they do look bloody good considering what it is!
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