Calum122

Does the light still come on? Surely you must have thought something when you're on 300 or so miles with stil la full tank?

So when in my brothers car we notice the idle drop significantly when the alternator is under load. Now it does this in my car, but not to the extent that it does in my brothers. It will idle spot on at 1000 rpm, turn everything on, heaters on full, lights, dipped and fogs. Then the idle drops to around 400-600 rpm, amazing it doesn't stall. Naturally he is trying to avoid this at the moment. But was just wondering if anyone else has incurred anything similar.

Used rope the other weekend. And a pair of pliers and a pair of helping hands. Easy enough to do. No need to remove cambelt from crank if it's all marked up properly. A tool to remove the collets is a much welcomed tool!

Infinite fuel

Mine are all Stand Passes

Type R all the way. Bullet proof motors that love high rpm usage. Where they lack mid-range they more than make up in the over rev. It only feels slower because you have to scream it for the power, but there is something nice about that. My mate picked up this red one two weeks ago for 2K. 143'000 miles on the clock, sounds like it's done 20'000 and pulls like that as well. Just credit to Honda really, they know how to build a solid motor. Oh and I disagree with 'lack of performance' comments above. If any of you's were at Japfest then you must have seen that Silver Type R round the track, for 200 bhp at the fly there wasn't a lot that could touch it. Bhp figures are just figures at the end of the day. But how these machines perform in the bends is another question entirely. The Type R I was watching was just able to hammer it through the bends. Personally I'd say get a Toyota Starlet Gt Turbo, the power comes on sooner and they feel faster. But these Type R's are cars you can depend on. I wouldn't be put off by high mileage ones either. Provided it's been regularly serviced then they are good to go for many many miles. Just my two pence.

Ollie what is this lmao. Get back in the Jap scene lol. Although was at the Asda the other week and there were a fair few BMW motors there, and it was funny to watch them drift the fecker lol.

Me + 3 please.

Yes mate, them wheels though! They really suit that car

In an edition of Banzai magazine (maybe last months) there was a guy who wanted to go there, but didn't want to drive around in a boring everyday car. He actually found a company which would hire out proper JDM cars. He had an Integra Type R (JDM of course). Went to a local car meet in that. Really interesting.

I just leave mine to chatter cause it sounds awesome But on high performance cars, pushing serious boost, a dump is required to safely dump the intake gases.

I'm pretty sure that if it's got a JAM ECU then it will not need a Fuel cut defender since that's built into the ECU pal. I know that's the case with the Blitz ecu and a lot of other ones.

Welcome dude. Throw some pictures up and let's have a look Don't see to many N/A 80's around my way.

Because the engine is designed to be assisted by the turbo, without the turbo, the ignition, low compression pistons and head clearance, will cause induced lugging due to the lack of performance. The mapping and fueling is designed with the turbo forced induction in mind. Basically Colin, I forgot to do a boost pipe up on my motor and it blew off, and the car was a little more difficult to drive. Kept stalling it and shit cause it wasn't getting the assistance of the turbo. So I figured it can't be good for the engine.

Yep, that's vented to atmosphere. Sorry. We reckon that helped, the PCV valve seemed fubar! I was thinking maybe it's damaged the ring lands, piston etc. It's got receipts for genuine pistons but I'm not convinced they're were ever designed to run TD04 Hybrid. He never batters it to an inch of its life. Drives it hard now and then. But not thrashed. Thanks though.

Hi guys, Just wanting your opinion on this. Last weekend I helped my brother do his valve stem seals on his car. When doing it I could see that the old valve stem seals were totally ruined and non-genuine. The car has paperwork for an engine rebuild two years ago, including valve stem seals and other stuff. The engine is putting out around 180 psi on all four cylinders. The car is running hybrid TD04 on stock internals at around 0.65 bar. It pulls very well and there are no nasty knocks and bangs. After doing the valve stem seals, we are finding that the car is still smoking on over run. Not as bad, but definitely still smoking. The turbo is brand new from Sacha, and I doubt it's the oil seals. I was thinking, maybe the valves are bent/damaged causing premature wear to the seals. But just wondering if anyone has some ideas about this. For now, he's saying Fck it and going to keep driving it. Although It would be nice to know what it is.

I didn't think it was a good idea to run a car without the turbo?

Starter motor was fine. Battery was flat. Despite being a brand new battery. The battery shows no sign of distinctive charge when running. Verdict is that the alternator is faulty.

Nice motor. Those Swifts are surprisingly fast. Practically a GSXR engine

UnlimitedMovies

Hello, Car was running and starting fine for the last couple of weeks. When I was working on my car and I couldn't get it started, I noticed that the starter was really slow compared to my brothers starter motor. Despite this it would still start. Come friday evening I was leaving work. The car started up, as soon as the Starter engaged. But it hesitated. I didn't think anything of it at the time. Just when to turn it over and it struggled, caught then started. Come Saturday morning, nothing. Really struggled to turn the engine, then just clicked. The engine bay has been covered in oil which I still need to resolve. I'm thinking maybe the Starter motor has given up the ghost? Or is it possible that the oil is causing bad earths? I don't see why the car wouldn't bump. It was absolutely sweet when I turned the ignition off Friday evening. No problems. Oil levels were regularly kept on top of. I will try to bump it when I get the chance. Just thought I'd get some ideas first. Also is it hard to remove the starter motor? Best place to approach it would be from underneath? I noticed if the heads removed it's great. But I've had that head off enough times and would prefer to leave it on just this once lol. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

For the FNG's here you want to explain the problem? I take it that's not even secure in the event of a crash?

I did spot you guys at Japfest this year. Had a good look at the motor and it was looking sweet. I didn't get a chance to come over and say hello though :\ Maybe next time Wanted to thank you personally for your help and service @IDWorkz It's appreciated.

Aww mate I saw this! I was like Odd colour, but I had no idea of the work that's gone into this. Mate, major respect for that, you've bossed it! Was looking sweet at japfest too

No No, It's the number down from that, the 7 you want mate